Taking New Measurements: For the tummy, measure the body circumference 2" below the waist. Measure the ribcage circumference halfway between the bra band lower edge and the waist.
Problem Fitting Areas on Patterns: If the area just below the waist is difficult to fit, draw a line at this point across the front and back pattern pieces. Measure the lines, excluding the space between the darts, if applicable. Add the front and back measurements, and then multiply the result by two to calculate the total amount of available fabric after the garment is made.
Adding Room to the Bodice Back: On the back pattern piece, draw a vertical line from the shoulder center point to the hem. Cut along the line, and then spread the pattern 1/2" (more if your bust is over 48"). Ease the back shoulder into the front shoulder seam, or add a 3 1/4"-long dart to the back shoulder. If the back has a princess seam, add 1/4" to the cutting line along each back princess seam, tapering to 0 at the upper and lower edges.
Shortening Garments: Shorten a jacket along the lower edge. This may affect the pocket location or eliminate a buttonhole. Note that the lowest buttonhole should not be lower than 4" above the hem.
Too-Tight Sleeves: Compare the total sleeve girth measurement to the sleeve pattern, measuring the pattern within the seam allowance. If the sleeve pattern is too small, cut a size-larger sleeve. Ease the entire sleeve upper edge (not just the area between notches) into the armhole.
Fit Insurance: As a reminder, apply painter's tape to the garment wrong side along any seams where you've added insurance. During construction, baste the side seams at 1 5/8" using contrasting thread. Try on the garment to test the fit, and let it out anywhere that you need more room.
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