Luzerne Trench Sew Along, Week 3: Bound Buttonhole Tutorial

Are you looking for tips and tricks on sewing a bound buttonhole; the Cadillac of buttonholes? Lucky you have the team from Deer & Doe showing you how, step-by-step to sew these beautiful bound buttonholes. Let’s get to it!

Buttons  Luzerne Trench Sew Along, Week 3: Bound Buttonhole Tutorial

These buttons need to be bound!

Welcome to week 3 of the Luzerne Trench sew along! Again today, we’re joined by the lovely team from Deer & Doe for their tips for sewing expert bound buttonholes, just one of the many details that make the Luzerne Trench special. You can find the original post here. And if you still need the pattern, we still have some copies available!

Before cutting the welt pieces, it’s important to check that the buttonhole size matches your buttons’ diameter. For Luzerne, we recommend using ¾” to ⅞” buttons. If your buttons are smaller or larger, you will have to adjust the size of the buttonholes and the welts accordingly.

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Once the buttonhole size is validated, you can prepare your pieces. For each buttonhole, you’ll need: the piece that will receive the buttonhole, the facing for this piece, the welt, and a rectangle of fusible interfacing of the same dimensions as the welt.

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You’ll need to apply interfacing to the buttonhole area on the main piece to reinforce it. If the pattern asks for interfacing on the whole piece (as is the case for the center front bodice of the Luzerne trench coat), apply it. If not, cut another rectangle of interfacing to the same dimensions as the welt, and fuse it to the wrong side of the facing, centering it on the buttonhole marking. Note: do not apply interfacing to the facing.

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On the right side of the main fabric piece, carefully mark the rectangle indicating the buttonhole placement. Do the same on the right side of the facing. Mark the rectangle on the wrong side of the welt, as well as on the rectangle of interfacing.

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Pin the welt to the main fabric piece, right sides together, matching the rectangles.

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Stitch on top of the rectangle.

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Pin the interfacing rectangle, non-sticky side of the interfacing against right side of the facing. Stitch on top of the rectangle.

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Slash the inside of the buttonhole, clipping diagonally toward each corner.

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Turn the welts to the wrong side through the hole. Press.

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On the facing, slash the inside of the rectangle, clipping diagonally toward each corner, and turn the interfacing to the wrong side through the hole. Press it carefully with your fingers, so that the interfacing cannot be seen from the right side, and fuse it with your iron.

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Form a first lip with the welt by folding one side as an accordion, so that half of the buttonhole is covered.

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Form the second lip so that the two fold lines meet in the middle of the buttonhole. Press carefully.

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Fold back the edges of each buttonhole to reveal the small triangles of fabric on each end of the welts. Stitch these triangles with the welts.

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Similarly, fold back the top and bottom of each buttonhole and stitch the seam allowances to the welts.

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When assembling the facing, place it carefully so that the facing window matches up with the buttonhole. Slipstitch the facing in place around the rectangle.

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That’s it! One last tip: avoid pressing the buttonholes too much, especially on the front of the garment, as this might leave some marks on the fabric.

 

  Luzerne Trench Sew Along, Week 3: Bound Buttonhole Tutorial
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2018 Figure Skating Costumes

2018 Winter Games–Costumes & Revelry

 We’re in the throes of Olympics fever with ever-present goosebumps as we watch the events unfold each day. The athletes’ backstories, the extravagant costumes, the audience reactions, the celebrations–it’s awe-inspiring. The hope, pride, joy (and sometimes disappointment) are palpable.GettyImages 918119240 2018 Figure Skating Costumes Valentina Marchei & Ondrej Hotarek of Italy

I can’t decide which sport I love the best. I’m even a fan of curling, now that I understand it a bit better. What makes the Winter Games more intriguing than the summer games, for me, is that everything is so death defying in the winter! Sure, anyone could injure themselves doing any sport, at any time of year. But cracking your skull on the ice or banging your hip against the edge of the halfpipe seems more serious than falling into the sand while playing volleyball…just sayin. I’m not implying the athletes are any more athletic or special or talented in the winter. I’m just saying I’m a bit more on the edge of my seat fearing for their safety than I am during the Summer Games.

I’ve always loved the figure skaters. For one, they are dancing ON ICE. Two, they wear beautiful costumes. Three, they are technical yet expressive, when most of the other athletes competing in different sports don’t even have to smile.

I remember Katarina Witt skating to Michael Jackson’s Bad wearing a studded leather jacket at the 1988 Games in Calgary. She wasn’t competing for the USA, but she won the hearts of many American kids who loved the music of MJ and that costume was killer!

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I recall the Nancy Kerrigan drama very well. I was glued to my TV when she skated in Lillehammer. Back then I had no idea that her costumes were designed by Vera Wang. That explains her subtle sophistication. Plus, Vera Wang skated when she was young, so she had inside knowledge about the needs of skaters.

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I think Wang did an excellent job conveying Kerrigan’s personality and complemented her music with her costumes. I’ve read some interviews with Wang, who claims she never wanted to take that job. She told People magazine, “If one strap were to break, or if the beading on the sleeve gets caught when they turn, their whole Olympics is over. That is how serious it is.” Despite those feelings, she’s been outfitting ice skaters for the past 20 years.

Other high-fashion designers, like Christian Lacroix, have designed for skaters in past Olympics. Here’s Surya Bonaly, wearing his design in the 1992 Games.

GettyImages 51956271 2018 Figure Skating Costumes The outfit can really make or break the performance. I particularly love the costumes in the pairs events this year.

Natalia Zabiiako and Alexander Enbert of Olympic Athletes of Russia wear seemingly simple costumes, with the lavender shades and subtle sparkle peeking through.

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Alexa Scimeca Knierim and Chris Knierim of the United States look like a coordinated couple though she is decidedly more formal than he is.

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This look is more playful, with her ode to Valentine’s Day emblazoned on her skate and his matching red bowtie.

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Sui Wenjing and Han Cong of China look like they’re skating in separate events. I didn’t think their look was cohesive enough.

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Same goes for Vanessa James and Morgan Cipres of France. She was a stunner in blue while he was a shadow in the background.

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Nicole Della Monica and Matteo Guarise of Italy win the award for Most Coordinated Costumes. But, I’m not sure that’s a good thing. Too much can just be…too much.

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It’s no secret that sewing these costumes is a huge undertaking. The sequins, the mesh, the stretchy, slippery fabrics…not to mention the stress of the garment withstanding for the entire performance. I dare say it’s more stressful than sewing for a bride. Huge props and applause to all of you out there sewing for gymnasts, swim meets and ice skating competitions! You have excellent confidence and skill and we celebrate you!

 2018 Figure Skating Costumes
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Sewing Makes You Love Yourself – Lumps And All!

Happy Valentines, Galentines, chocolates and wine/fancy fabric day, friends! We’re taking today to celebrate one of our favorite kinds of love: self-love. We’ve been so inspired by the Sewing Makes You Love Yourself challenge on Instagram (#smyly2018), we thought we’d chime in with our thoughts on how sewing has transformed, inspired and impacted our lives and our relationships…with ourselves. Join the conversation! Let us know in the comments if sewing has positively impacted your relationship with yourself and your body.

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Amanda in her most recent makes, the Nikko Top by True Bias and Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns (random dirty socks and legos are artfully cropped out).

 

 

 

 

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 Sewing Makes You Love Yourself   Lumps And All!
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Luzerne Trench Sew Along Week 2: Trench Coat Fabric Recommendations

Welcome to week 2 of the Luzerne Trench sew along! Again today, we’re joined by the lovely team from Deer & Doe for their fabric recommendations (and a few of our top picks). 

Check out last week’s post for more on the inspiration behind this design. And join us next week for a bound buttonhole tutorial, plus some special topics along the way. And don’t forget: there’s still time to join! Grab the pattern here and get started with us!

trench 1000 Luzerne Trench Sew Along Week 2: Trench Coat Fabric Recommendations

For Luzerne, we recommend light- to mediumweight twill or gabardine. The fabric must have enough body: avoid wools and rayon blends, or you’ll lose the structure of the jacket. At the same time, the fabric has to have some flexibility to ensure comfort. Stay away from anything too stiff and rigid. Finally, pick something with 100% cotton rather than an elastane blend, which would disrupt the fit and make you have to go down at least half a size. And if you’d like, you could also go for a waxed twill Continue reading

 Luzerne Trench Sew Along Week 2: Trench Coat Fabric Recommendations
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Project Runway All Stars Recap: S6, E6

Project Runway All Stars Recap: Season 6, Episode 6: Thrown for a Loop by Betty Boop

Screen Shot 2018 02 09 at 8.13.41 AM Project Runway All Stars Recap: S6, E6

photos courtesy of mylifetime.com.

This week, Betty Boop was the special guest. The designers were challenged by her to create a youthful, fashion-foward look that she’d love to wear. (The animators did an especially lovely job with her shadow on the catwalk.) Continue reading

 Project Runway All Stars Recap: S6, E6
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Meet the Maker: Sara Johansen

Sara Johansen is a wife, mom to two little ones, BERNINA Ambassador, and creative innovator in-between. Basically, fashion forward sewing is her thing. Learn more about Sara at TheSaraProject.com or @thesaraproject_.

Sara Palm 680x1024 Meet the Maker: Sara Johansen

All images courtesy of Sara Johansen and the Sara Project

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 Meet the Maker: Sara Johansen
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Winter Games Opening Ceremony Fashions

Winter Games–Snowsuit Fashion at its Finest

GettyImages 914551306 Winter Games Opening Ceremony Fashions

I’m excited about the opening ceremony this Friday. I love watching as the teams from each country file into the stadium and fill it with color and personality. Usually the opening ceremony looks are glorified snowsuits–oversized coats with snowpants and perhaps some sort of accessory that unifies the group–a scarf, hat or statement shoe (or all of the above). Here’s a look at the 2014 looks to get you amped for what’s to come in a few days. Continue reading

 Winter Games Opening Ceremony Fashions
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