American Sewing Guild Conference 2016

A few weeks ago, I had the amazing opportunity to attend the American Sewing Guild Conference in Indianapolis. I had a wonderful time, learned a lot, and met some fantastic people.One of my instructions was to fill my day with classes—what a burden, right?

I started off my Friday with a class on working with patterning software with Susan Lazear of Cochenille Design Studio. Susan coded her Garment Designer Software herself, and it looks so cool! I’m hoping to get an opportunity to play with it one of these days.

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On my way to my second class I peeked into a classroom where exciting things seemed to be happening!

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The exhibit hall didn’t open until 2:00. I felt like the delights behind that arch were teasing me from afar!

My second class was with Sandy Miller of Cutting Line Designs. It was about adding gentle shaping to garments via a selection of methods like darts, tucks, casings, and tabs. Sandy pointed out something to me that I had never realized before—darts don’t have to be triangles or diamonds! They can curve to give you the exact shaping you need. I don’t know why I never thought of this, but it was quite the epiphany!

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Cutting Line Designs gave every attendee a copy of their In the Trenches pattern—what a neat thing to find in your welcome bag!

I was lucky enough to have my Friday lunch with the amazing Rae Cumbie of Fit for Art Patterns and June Colburn of June Colburn Designs. They were delightful lunch companions, and it was wonderful to spend some time getting to know them. Friday lunch also featured the keynote speaker, Linda Przybyszewski, author of The Lost Art of the Dress. She took us on a journey through dressing expectations from the 1920s through the 1960s with details on the historical context for those choices. I love vintage fashion and I love historical context, so it was a fascinating hour for me!

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I didn’t manage to get a signed copy at the conference, but I did order the book for further enjoyment.

My final Friday class was about tailored jackets with Connie Crawford of Fashion Patterns by Coni. She has an long and varied career history in the garment industry and teaching sewing to fashion students. She had a wealth of knowledge to share with us and I feel lucky to have had the chance to learn from her.

The rest of my day was spent in the exhibit hall meeting such talented people as Janet Pray of Islander Sewing and Gail Patrice Yellen of Gail Patrice Design and drooling over the pretty fabrics and atypical notions that were for sale. I barely stopped myself from buying an industrial iron such as the kind that I used to use when I worked in costume shops—it was only the prospect of packing it into my carryon and lifting it into the overhead bin that stopped me! I later discovered that they would have shipped it for free, so I’m kicking myself.

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Friday night there was a fireworks show right outside my window. I think it was over the local baseball field.

Saturday was just as full of great classes and people. Shirley Adams of The Sewing Connection gave a lecture on her alternatives pattern collection with bonus information about moving darts on a bodice that will be really useful when altering patterns. Cindy Losekamp of Sew Artfully Yours gave us a treasure trove of information about embroidering on anything and everything. I’m still pretty new to machine embroidery, so I’m always excited to learn something new.

I imagine the highlight of the conference for a lot of people is always the fashion show. It is a really cool event. I loved seeing the amazing things people can do with fabric and challenges, especially the guild members who aren’t professionals. The wow piece of the day was a wedding gown made by a guild member for her daughter, who graciously modeled it. I know I would never have the courage to make a wedding gown for anyone close to me (what if I messed it up?), so that aspect was especially impressive. The winner of the fashion show was announced on Sunday after I left, so I don’t know who it was. If anyone does, please let me know!

My final class at the ASG conference was Sewing with Silk with Kandi Christian of Sew Timeless. I thought I was just sitting in on this one—the class was full but they let me to watch—but a few ladies decided they didn’t want to pay the fee, so I got to sew for the first time all weekend.

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My china silk sample on my machine.

It was really fun. Kandi gave us a selection of silk samples to try out techniques on and taught us how to keep seams from puckering, how to finish seams to prevent raveling and keep them neat, and how to inset lace. I admit I struggled a bit with the generously-lent computerized Viking machines (I have a mechanical Singer that’s about as old as I am, so the newer machines can throw me off when I first try to use them), but it was a great class and I learned a lot. And then I went to the exhibit hall and bought some gorgeous silk jacquard to try my new skills on.

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So beautiful!

Before I did that, though, I had a nice long chat with Ramona Baird, the education director of ASG and a contributor to Creative Machine Embroidery and hung out for awhile with Pam Demour, the Decorating Diva, and her business partner Betty Mitchell. One of Pam’s videos taught me how to make continuous bias tape, which is magic, so she’s a hero of mine.

I thought my conference was pretty much over when I went back up to my room that night, but I didn’t count on eating my breakfast the next morning with Janet Pray, Connie Crawford and Lynn Strobel of Synergy Art and Design. My last experience at the ASG conference was sitting around a table and listening to some incredibly knowledgeable and talented people talk shop. What a way to end the weekend! I’m so grateful that I got to participate in this wonderful gathering. The ASG put on a wonderful event, and I have to compliment them and especially the Indianapolis chapter for doing such a great job.

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The hosting chapter made these awesome pouches for the attendees. Thanks, Indy Chapter!

 American Sewing Guild Conference 2016
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Save These Tips For Working With Knits

A Knack for Knits

Lately, I’ve been sewing with a lot of silks and silkys. Must be due to the weather. As this summer flies by, fall will be right around the corner. Most likely I’ll trade my silk fabrics in for toasty knits.

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I love sewing with knits, they really are one of the easiest most forgiving fabrics around. Sure, there are a few that can be prickly to work with. I think many tissue knits can be a pain and velvet knits are no picnic. The problems that I’ve encountered are curling edges. Also, some sweater and lacy knits can be a challenge to cut. These types of knits can shift and stretch even while on the cutting table.

Good news is, there are a few easy to follow tips for making your knit sewing projects looking in fine form.

  • For sweater and lacy knits, cut out on a large flat surface that will accommodate all the fabric. Don’t have any hang over the edge.
  • Cut lacy and sweater knits in a single layer to ensure accuracy.
  • Use a rotary cutting system for sweater knits.
  • Be sure to use an interfacing specially for knits on pockets or anywhere that needs a bit of stability.
  • Stabilize buttonholes on any knit fabric with a bit of interfacing.
  • Preshrink all knit fabrics. Take special care with sweater knits and read the manufacturers label for washing instructions. Not all sweater knits are washable.

And, the number one tip requested for knits:

  • To prevent curling of edges use a wash-away basting tape or fabric glue stick within the seam allowance when placing pieces together. Allow the glue to dry before sewing.

Are these tips you use when you sew with knits? Do you have trouble with curling edges? What’s  your tip? When are you going to start sewing for fall? Are knits in your forecast? Let me know in the comments section !

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Jill Case
Online Editor
SewNews.com

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 Save These Tips For Working With Knits
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Read Katrina’s Top 5 Tips For Sewing Knits (Without a Serger!)

Everybody loves knits.  Everybody.  They’re soft, comfy, and super fashionable.  Whether your look is tailored, sporty, or feminine – there’s a knit fashion for that!  Every year new fiber and knit stitch combinations make their debut for even more fabulous options.

 Read Katrinas Top 5 Tips For Sewing Knits (Without a Serger!)

But, there is just something about the stretchy stuff that seems to inspire dread in the most intrepid sewing enthusiasts.  I’m always amazed at some of my very accomplished sewing friends who avoid sewing knits unless they have access to a serger.  They’d rather hand pad-stitch a lapel than contemplate sewing a simple t-shirt.  No doubt sergers are great tools and we love them – but they are not necessary for creating fabulous knit fashions!

 Read Katrinas Top 5 Tips For Sewing Knits (Without a Serger!)

Fortunately, knit fabrics really are quite easy to sew.  Even the really stretchy stuff!  I was so excited to film Sewing Knits Without a Serger because I love to eliminate the “fear factor” of sewing and empower sewing fashionistas to truly create what they want to wear.

 Read Katrinas Top 5 Tips For Sewing Knits (Without a Serger!)

Sewing Knits Without a Serger builds confidence in working with and sewing knit fabrics by building on basic knit sewing skills and knowledge:

  • All about knit fabrics – their unique performance characteristics and how to best work with them.

  • How to select the right stitch for both the type of knit fabric and garment for best results.

  • Must-have notions and sewing feet for making sewing with knits easy and professional looking.

  • Tips for handling knits when sewing to eliminate common problems such as rippled seams.

  • Knitwear construction techniques for easiest garment assembly.

  • How to apply bindings and trims for a flawless ready-to-wear finish.

Screen Shot 2016 07 20 at 7.42.19 AM Read Katrinas Top 5 Tips For Sewing Knits (Without a Serger!) You’ll learn how simple it really is to sew your favorite knit fashions with your sewing machine.  If you’ve been wanting to sew knits and have either been afraid – or not satisfied with the results – this is the class for you!

Top 5 Tips for Sewing Knits Without a Serger:

  1. Know your knit!  Knit fabrics vary greatly in stretch, recovery, structure, and drape.

  2. A walking foot or dual-feed feature is your best knit sewing friend.

  3. The right needle can make the difference between a pretty seam and a mess.

  4. Not all knit stitches are created equal.  Test first!

  5. Feed your knits gently and avoid pre-stretching for beautifully ripple-free seams.

This course is in video format and you can watch at any time, there’s no set time and date. Watch when you want, where you want. Hope you join in and learn more on how easy sewing with knits can be, even without a serger.

See you soon!

Katrina

Learn To Sew KnitsWithout A Serger 1 Read Katrinas Top 5 Tips For Sewing Knits (Without a Serger!)

 Read Katrinas Top 5 Tips For Sewing Knits (Without a Serger!)
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How To Achieve Great Fitting Garments At Any Age

Do you have the latest copy of Sew News yet? If you need any help on fitting garments we have two outstanding articles this month. Joi Mahon’s latest article: Fitting the Aging Figure addresses the unstoppable downward droop many of us face as we get older. And, in Rae Cumbie’s series, Fit Finder, she tells you how to find the best fitting pattern for your body.

Different Stages Of Woman 406x2031 How To Achieve Great Fitting Garments At Any AgeThe Aging Body

The aging body isn’t a hot topic in current sewing circles (who wants to talk about a drooping bust?). But, you know what? If we’re lucky were all going to get there eventually. Just because our bodies change in whatever shape, we don’t need to give up on sewing garments.  It’s when our bodies change that sewing will become even more satisfying. If you have a hard-to-fit body of any age, I can guarantee that you’ll have an near impossible time finding clothing that fits in department stores.

Fabulous Fit

Fortunate for us, we have Joi and Rae helping us achieve expertly fitted garments. Joi’s article offers great tips on how to keep your garments looking their best as our bodies trend toward a “downward shift”. Her article is geared to +55, but as she notes, you’ll notice there are many body changes that happen at any time in our lives.

Hunched Shoulders

For instance, I spend a lot of time at a computer, and I notice my shoulders, with every passing year, shift more and more forward. Fortunately, the pattern alterations for +55 are the same for anyone younger. Same goes for a narrow chest adjustment. I’ve been doing that adjustment since the beginning of time. Turns out this adjustment is a common one for an older figure, too.

Find Your Fit
Following the topic of fit, Rae Cumbie, in our newest issue details various dress design elements in the Fit Finder series. Find advice and tips on how to pick a dress pattern that will serve your body and lifestyle best. Any dress pattern can be made to fit any body. It takes a little practice and knowledge to pick the right pattern for your body type. Once you find it your wardrobe will never be the same!

Whether you are over 55 or under 25, we all have one thing in common: we want to have well-fitting garments. Learning how to fit yourself and achieve that well made garment is not difficult. To have awesome fitting clothing you’ll need two things: expert guidance and perseverance.

Let me know your fitting problem on the Sew News blog and you’ll be entered to win Create the Perfect Fit and Joi’s latest book Designer Joi’s Fashion Sewing Workshop (for a review of her latest book head to the blog). One winner will be picked on July 26 and announced in the newsletter.

See you then!

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Do you have issues fitting patterns to your body shape? Or selecting patterns that flatter your figure? Summertime is a great time to add flirty skirts, dresses and basics to your handmade wardrobe, all while embracing your curves.Join designer and long-time Sew News contributor Rae Cumbie in this live webinar and learn to find figure-flattering patterns you’ll love to wear. You’ll learn how to

Enroll Now

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Create The Perfect Fit

Join award-winning designer Joi Mahon as she teaches you the secret to creating perfectly fitted garments with any pattern.

Create the Perfect Fit teaches the method that Joi Mahon teaches across the country in her design classes and uses in the studio every day with her clients.

Joi will guide you through evaluating the body, compensating for figure variations, taking extensive measurements and applying them to a commercial pattern to see how these vital pattern adjustments affect fit.

You’ll learn:

  • tried-and-true measuring & fitting methods that will create the perfect fit.
  • a method that works with any pattern, from fitted dresses to ball gowns, and works for all body types.

Discover how you can create a custom-fit pattern when Joi’s 3-D measurement method is applied to all the 2-D patterns you have been dying to start!

Plus, take our latest cover survey and tell us what cover you like best.

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 How To Achieve Great Fitting Garments At Any Age
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Absolute Beginner Machine Embroidery Episode 5 Preview

Hello everyone. We are excited about the latest launch of a new machine embroidery series. This 26 episode series teaches and inspires both new and experienced machine embroiderers to get the most out of their machine investment and create beautiful embroidered projects.

Absolute Beginner Machine Embroidery will guide you through a variety of topics including:

  • different types of embroidery designs
  • stabilizers and threads that are available
  • how to embroider on ready-made-projects
  • embroidering on difficult fabrics
  • the basics of embroidery software, and so much more.

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This series is great for those that sew garments, quilts and/or crafts. As long as you have an embroidery machine and you want to learn all there is to it, you’re all set! Just sit back and find out how fun machine embroidery can be.

Episode 5 is all about embroidery blanks. This episode will tell you exactly what an embroidery blank is and how to use them.

Watch a quick preview of Episode 5 of Absolute Beginner Machine Embroidery.

You can purchase this as a subscription to QNNtv.com or purchase the entire series (26 episodes) here for 24.99

 Absolute Beginner Machine Embroidery Episode 5 Preview
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Embrace Your Curves! Learn How To Fit & Flatter Your Figure!

Next Webinar is all about embracing your awesome curves! Rae Cumbie will be presenting a webinar on July 19: Embracing Curves Fit & Flatter A Fuller Figure. Let’s breakdown what exactly a webinar is and what you’ll get out of it.

Do you have issues fitting patterns to your body shape? Or selecting patterns that flatter your figure? Summertime is a great time to add flirty skirts, dresses and basics to your handmade wardrobe, all while embracing your curves.

Join designer and long-time Sew News contributor Rae Cumbie in this live webinar and learn to find figure-flattering patterns you’ll love to wear. You’ll learn how to select patterns that are best for your body type, a variety of useful fitting techniques for fuller figures and helpful tips for dressing your curves well.

pzvcbblb72naksfkfjrl Embrace Your Curves! Learn How To Fit & Flatter Your Figure!The Webinar

Each web seminar is a live event that lasts about an hour and includes a Q&A session toward the end where you can submit questions that the instructor will answer.

If you can’t attend the live event, don’t worry. A recording from the live session will be uploaded to the web seminar area within a week after the live event and the recording will remain available online for 30 days after the live event. You can watch the recording anytime during those 30 days, or download to keep.

Prior to the published live web seminar date:

  • You’ll need to complete your registration on GoToWebinar – this is where the actual, live event will take place. Once you register, you’ll receive a confirmation email with instructions on how to complete your registration on GoToWebinar.

After the live web seminar date:

  • Log back into Craft U anytime after the live event is over to: watch and download a recorded version of the live event* and interact with fellow students in the discussion forum area.

What You’ll Learn:

  • General overview of full-figure fitting techniques
  • Professional guidance on picking patterns to flatter your shape
  • Expert sewing and fitting instruction
  • Fit considerations based on common body issues

Who Should Attend:

  • Sewists looking to embrace their curves
  • Beginning to intermediate sewists with some garment-sewing experience
  • Sewists of all skill levels interested in learning more about fitting and fitting techniques

Your Presenter

Rae Cumbie

Pattern designer, fitting expert and experienced instructor, Rae Cumbie is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics focusing on fit and artful design options. A past president of The Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, Rae has been creating clothing for women and children in her home-based studio for over 20 years. Her custom gowns for weddings and special occasions have earned her a place as one of Baltimore’s most sought-after dressmakers, and the title of Baltimore’s Best Tailor by Baltimore Magazine in 2005. She coaches sewists of all skill levels in classes and on her blog.

We hope you’ll join us for this next webinar from Sew News!

 Embrace Your Curves! Learn How To Fit & Flatter Your Figure!
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Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

Here it is at last, the final portion of the Soma Swimsuit Sew Along. We hope you have made up the suit, and fairly certain it won’t be the last suit you make. Let us know if you have any issues or questions. And, now let’s have Rhonda give us some final pointers on sewing the Soma Swimsuite from Paper Cut Patterns.

 

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

A swimsuit is just a few small pieces of fabric, so how can it be that they can be one of the most intimidating garments to put together, not to mention, one of the most intimidating to wear?  As with any garment, it all boils down to fit. Fit, that awful little 3 letter word!

When making a swimsuit, one of the easiest places to make a mistake is in the fit of the legs. The elastic is too tight, too loose, or just doesn’t fit the leg correctly. In this post, I will help you get the proper fit, and you’ll see that it’s much easier than you may think.

In our last post, we sewed the bottom of the suit together and lined it in 1 easy step. Now it’s time to add the elastic to the leg openings

Begin by using a zigzag stitch to baste the lining to the fashion fabric. Stitch around the waistline as well as each leg opening.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

Now for the elastic. Where many make a mistake is in thinking that the elastic should be smaller than the front leg opening. If you take a look at your body, you’ll see that the area from the hips to the top of the leg is really quite flat. Where we do need a little fit is around the buttocks, but only around the buttocks.

When measuring out the elastic for the leg opening, the elastic should measure the same as the front opening. The measurement around the back of the leg should be approximately 1″ sorter than the measurement of the back leg opening.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

When sewing the elastic to the leg opening, do not pull the elastic around the front of the leg, it should lay flat against the fabric.

In the picture below, you see that the elastic has been pulled only in the back and where the elastic will provide fit around the buttocks.

The elastic can be zigzagged to the leg opening, or you may use a serger. But for those of you who do not have a serger, a serger is not necessary for making swimsuits, just a machine with a zigzag stitch.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

 Once the  elastic has been zigzagged to the edge of the leg opening, roll the elastic in towards the inside of the suit and zigzag once more. The leg opening of the suit is now finished!

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

The finished back legs of the suit.

We’ll sit the bottom of the suit aside while we finish the top of the suit.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

 As with the bottom of the suit, we will baste the lining to the fashion fabric for the top of the suit with a zigzag stitch.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

The pattern calls for the suit to be finished with foldover elastic. My only problem with this is 2-fold, the elastic can be expensive and you may not be able to find elastic that will match your fabric. Of course, foldover elastic will make finishing the top of the suit a breeze, just foldover the edge and zigzag in place, but what if you can’t find elastic to match your fabric? I used a coordinating fabric.

To do this, cut a strip of fabric 2″ wide in the direction where the fabric has the greatest stretch. Although the fabric is a 4-way stretch fabric, it will usually stretch more in 1 direction than in the other 3 directions, so test the fabric before cutting the strip.

Once the 2″ wide strip is cut, fold it it half and lightly steam the fold to mark the fold. But remember that the fabric has elastic that will melt, so please be sure that your iron is on a low heat setting and that you don’t hold the iron down on the fabric.

Once the fold has been steamed, open the strip up and turn back the raw edges. and then fold the strip back in half. Your binding has now been made.

Begin by placing the binding over the front edge of the suit, sandwiching the raw edge inside the folded strip. Zigzag in place. Be sure that the strip is at least 4″ longer than the front edge as you will need the extra to attach the strips to the rings.

The strip that is placed along the edge under the arm should be 1/2″ shorter than the suit. In the picture below, you see that the strip is slightly shorter. Simply pull the strip to ease in the fabric. By doing this, the suit will cup around the bust and offer a better fit. With this strip, be sure that it is also 4″ longer that the edge of the suit as it will also be attached to the decorative ring.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

 

For the shoulder strap, I once again sandwiched the back edge of the suit inside the folded strip. With this strip, please be sure to have enough to wrap over the shoulder and become a shoulder strap.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

 

My straps are in place and all of the edges of the suit are now finished.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

 

To join the 2 fronts, simply match the center front notches and then baste together with a zigzag stitch.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

To join the top to the bottom, match the notches to the side seams, and once again, using a zigzag stitch, sew the top to the bottom.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

The top and bottom are now attached, but we need to add a little fit to the waistline with elastic.

Take your elastic and place it comfortably around your waist. Take the elastic and zigzag it to the waistline seam allowance.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

Once the elastic has been stitched to the waistline seam, fold the seam down toward the bottom of the suit and stitch the seam down with a zigzag stitch. The suit will now securely fit the waist.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

With the suit I made for the magazine as well as this suit, I thought outside the box for the decorative ring. I was very fortunate to find this hook ring that perfectly matched my fabric.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

With whatever type of ring that you use, simply fold the 2 strips over the ring and zigzag in place.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

In order to get a good fit on the shoulder straps, you will need to try the suit on. Try the suit on and pull the shoulder straps through the ring until the straps fit snugly over the shoulders.

Once the shoulder straps are in place, you will once again need to try the suit on to assure a good fit with the cross straps. I once again used my coordinating fabric to make my cross straps. Zigzag the cross straps at an angle to the shoulder straps.

Once the cross straps are in place…

The Suit Is Finished!!!!

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

A note about fit, you may decide that you would like the suit to be a little more secure at center front. If this is the case, simply try the suit on and pin the center front of the suit together where it will be comfortable for you. To stitch the 2 fronts together, stitch over the zigzag stitching.

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

I am in love with my new suit and I can’t wait to jump in the water!!!

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details

I hope you’ve enjoyed making a new swimsuit. If you have not purchased the Papercut Soma Swimsuit, but think you might like to give the pattern a try, you can find it HERE at Shop Sew It All.

Happy Sewing, and Happy Summer!

Rhonda Buss

sewbussted.com

 Soma Swimsuit Sew Along: Week 4 Final Details
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