Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

The Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Sew Along Week 3

At this point, our Robson Trench Coats are really beginning to take shape. I’m loving my new coat more and more, by the minute, and I can’t wait to wear it!

Once the pockets have been attached, sew the center back panel to the side panel and bind the seams as we did the other seams.

The instructions tell you to sew the shoulder seam and bind them. As I thought about it, I realized that this is an unnecessary step. Binding the seam does create some bulk, so rather than sew the seam towards the inside of the coat, sew it to the outside as I have done. The flaps are going to cover the seam and we will not have the added bulk of the seam binding.photo 1a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

The inside will look beautiful.photo 2a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

One more step to take to reduce bulk in the seam is to clip the edges as I have done. Now we can put the coat aside while we work on the flaps and the collar.photo 3a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

When you lay the under collar over the top collar, you will notice that the under collar is a little smaller than the top collar. This is NOT a mistake and please do not trim the top collar to match the under collar. Pin the 2 collars together and ease in the fullness.photo 4a1 Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

You can see that there will be some fullness to the top collar. This is fine.photo 5a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Trim the collar prior to turning.photo 6a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Once the collar has been trimmed, push the seam allowance toward the under collar and edge stitch. The edge stitching will be along the edge of the under collar.photo 7a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Now turn the collar to the right side. The top collar will actually roll a little toward the back. This is just as it should be. Once the collar has been sewn to the jacket, the seam of the collar will not be able to roll towards the top of the collar. Set the collar aside for now.photo 8a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Sew the front flaps to the back flap. As you can see, I have trimmed my shoulder seam allowances just as I did the shoulder seams on the coat. This will help to reduce bulk at the shoulder seam.photo 9a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Sew the top flaps to the bottom flaps and trim the seam allowances.photo 101 Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Turn the flaps to the ride side and press. Once pressed, top stitch the collar as well as the flaps.photo 11a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Pin the flaps to the coat. Baste in place around the armhole and the neckline. If you look closely, there is a notch at the neckline where the flap should meet.photo 12a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Pin the collar to the neckline and baste in place. The collar should match to the edge of the front flap. As you can see, my front flap is laying very nicely against my coat. If your flap buckles or sits away from the coat, then you have probably stretched the flap. Be careful to not stretch the flap while sewing.photo 13a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

The final step to the flaps and collar is to add the tabs. Simply fold the shoulder tabs in half and stitch with a 5/8″ seam allowance.photo 14a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Trim the seam allowance as you see below.photo 15a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Turn the tab to the right side. Use a point turner to get the points nice and sharp. Please do not push your scissors into the points as you will risk punching a hole in the corners and then you’ll need to recut the tabs. This is advice from someone who has done exactly what I’m telling you not to do:)photo 16a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3Top stitch the tabs.photo 17a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Now place the tabs on the shoulder seam of the coat. Be sure to line the point up exactly with the shoulder seam.

The tabs have been basted in place. The collar and flaps are in place.

Our next step will be to attach our sleeves. Then we will attach the facings, hem the coat and sleeves and sew in our buttonholes. We’re almost there!!!

Until next time,

Sew On!!!

Rhonda

www.sewbussted.com

 

Posted in Sew Along, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

12 Days of Christmas Day 9 Singer Heavy Duty 4411 Machine

Happy Thursday and welcome back to the 12 Days Of Christmas Giveaways from Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery! Let’s not lose a minute and get to today’s prize and yesterday’s winner!

12 days of xmas image1 12 Days of Christmas Day 9 Singer Heavy Duty 4411 Machine

Today we’re giving away the 4411 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine from Singer!

4411 heavy duty 700x520 b0e80ce64c2cb0fbde6a2c0d82c46f48e29c0d3f1 12 Days of Christmas Day 9 Singer Heavy Duty 4411 Machine

This SINGER® HEAVY DUTY sewing machine is a true workhorse. With a heavy duty metal interior frame, stainless steel bed plate, extra-high sewing speed and powerful motor, it can sew through just about anything you throw at it. Convenience features including top drop-in bobbin, fully automatic 4-step buttonhole and drop feed for free motion sewing adds a new dimension of ease to heavy duty sewing.

All you have to do to enter to win this prize is answer the following question in the comments section below:

“What is the hardest/difficult fabric you’ve had to sew with?”

And, the winner from yesterday’s contest is TJ H.! TJ H. I will be in touch with you shortly to tell you how to claim your prize.

Visit the Creative Machine Embroidery blog tomorrow to find out if you won today’s prize, and for another chance to win!

Jill

head shot200 12 Days of Christmas Day 9 Singer Heavy Duty 4411 Machine

 

 

Posted in 12 Days of Giveaways | Tagged , , , , , , , | 393 Comments

Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along – Pockets!

The Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Sew Along/Constructing The Pockets

There is a trick to doing inseam pockets and it’s a simple one, be precise! It would be nice if there was a magic trick, but sadly, there isn’t. Be sure to mark all notches!!!!!

To construct the inseam pocket of the Sewaholic Robson Trench, you will need the pocket pattern and the flap pattern. Cut 4 of each.       pocket 1 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

Begin by sewing the flaps together with a 5/8″ seam allowance. Remember, all seam allowances are 5/8″ unless otherwise noted.

pocket 2 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!Once sewn, trim the seam allowance. As you can see, I trimmed mine fairly close. Just be careful to not trim the seam allowance so close that it will pull apart when turned. The instructions say to clip the curve, I do not. If the seam is trimmed closely as I have done, it is not necessary to clip into the curve.pocket 3 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

Once the flap has been sewn, turn the flap to the right side and top stitch around the flap. Find the notches on the front panel of the coat and match the flap to the notches. The flap should sit right in between the notches. Baste in place.pocket 4 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

Now take the pocket pattern and match the notches on the pocket pattern to the notches on the front panel and the side panel. I marked my notches with a white hash mark so you could see them.pocket 5 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

Now this is where being precise will pay off.  On the pocket, mark the 5/8″ seam allowance from the top and bottom edge of the pocket. You can see the white hash marks on my pocket piece below. Sew from the top 5/8′ mark to the bottom 5/8″ mark with a 5/8″ seam allowance.pocket 6 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

The pocket is now sewn to the from and side panels of the coat.pocket 7 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

This is the next area where you will need to be very precise. At this point, you will sew the princess line seam. Sew from the bottom of the coat to the first notch of the pocket opening. Be sure to line up the pockets perfectly so that the pocket does not get caught in the seam. Cut your threads and then sew from the top notch in the pocket opening to the top of the princess line seam. The princess line seam has now been sewn and you will have an opening in your pocket as you see below. At this point the pocket has not been sewn closed.pocket 8 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

Before we can sew the pocket closed, we need to top stitch the flap on the front side of the coat.On the back side of the coat, open the pockets out as you see below.pocket 9 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

On the front of the coat, top stitch from one end of the flap to the other, stopping exactly at the end of the flap as you see in the picture below.pocket 10 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

Once the flap has been top stitched, you can now sew the pocket together. Sew from the 5/8″ mark around to the other 5/8″ mark. The seam allowance on the coat at the top and bottom of the pocket will need to be clipped.pocket 11 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

Sew the bias tape around the pocket.pocket 12 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

Now sew the bias tape to the princess line seam. Once the bias tape has been attached, turn the coat and top stitch the seam.pocket 13 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

This next step is my favorite. I absolutely love this little touch! Cut a 6″ strip of bias tape.Fold it in half and stitch along the edge. Stitch it to the pocket and then baste it to the front edge of the jacket. Your pocket will now beautifully stay in place.pocket 14 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

The final step to the pocket construction is to stitch down the flaps. We don’t want our flaps to be flapping in the wind!!! Stitch directly into the top stitching from the seam to the curve of the flap.pocket 15 Special Post on The Robson Coat Sew Along   Pockets!

That’s it!!! You now have beautiful pockets! I think the pockets are the most difficult step in constructing this coat. The rest will be a breeze!

So good luck with your pocket construction. Just remember to be very precise about marking notches and seam allowance and I think you will be fine.

In our next post, we will add the collar, the flaps and the tabs.

Until then,

Sew On!!

Rhonda

www.sewbussted.com

 

Posted in Sew Along, Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

12 Days of Christmas Giveaways (Day 7) Win a Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machine!

12 days of xmas image1 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways (Day 7) Win a Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machine!

Happy Tuesday, Readers! Congratulations to yesterday’s winner of the Singer Expert Finish iron: Amanda W! Check your inbox for an email from me so we can get you your prize!

You must know by now, Readers, that you’re very special to us– and to show our love and appreciation, we’re giving you the chance to win this lovely sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking! *cue Price is Right music*

HClass 100q front VSM11090004 1 1024x873 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways (Day 7) Win a Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machine!

The H Class 100q is convenient, compact and lightweight. At just 15 lbs (7kg), it’s perfect for travel and classes. Check out some of its features:

  • 20 built-in stitches including quilting, utility and decorative stitches; plus, two one-step buttonholes, that are ideal for creative projects. Adjust stitch width up to 7mm.
  • Adjustable presser foot pressure will let you sew any fabric type and weight with perfect results.
  • Start/Stop button lets you sew without the foot control.
  • Speed Control Slide makes it easy to adjust the speed for greater control.
  • Needle Stop Up/Down sets the needle to stop up or down for pivoting, appliqué and accurate sewing.
  • Extra-High Presser Foot Lift raises the presser foot to its highest position so that thick fabrics and multiple layers can be placed effortlessly under the presser foot.
  • Built-In Needle Threader makes threading easy

Enter to win this fabulous prize by answering the following question in the comments section below:

How many machines do you have?

Don’t lie to me, because I’ll know. Do you still have that old metal machine you learned to sew on lurking in your closet? Do you have a serger, and maybe an embroidery machine too? Or a sewing machine dedicated to zigzag stitching so you don’t have to change your favorite settings?

When I got a new machine I gave my old one away as a gift, and sometimes I wish I still had it! I’d keep it threaded with white all the time for those quick projects that just require a straight stitch.

Even if you don’t end up keeping this beaut for yourself, imagine the joy on the face of a friend who’s learning to sew, or your best sewing buddy, when you give it to them.

This contest ends at 7a.m. MST tomorrow (12/17)! Check the Creative Machine Embroidery blog tomorrow to find out if you won, plus enter to win another amazing prize!

Good luck and Happy Sewing!

~Nicki

NickiHeadshot 150x150 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways (Day 7) Win a Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machine!

Posted in 12 Days of Giveaways | Tagged , , | 1,505 Comments

Robson Coat Sew Along – Week 2

1501 Sewaholic Robson square 600 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

The Sewaholic Robson Trench lends itself  to everything from a conservative look, to all out funky. I have chosen all out funky for my sew along coat. I had this rather interesting piece of fabric in my fabric closet for quite some time. As I thought about what I might use, this came to mind. My only problem was that I was short the yardage needed for the coat. But as Tim Gunn says, “make it work,” and I will! In the end I think I will have a much more attractive coat as I will be mixing it with a solid black piece of cotton velvet. So if you have your heart set on a particular piece of fabric and you don’t have quite enough, think about what you might possibly pair it with.

photo 16 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

As we get started on the construction of the coat, I thought I would go over just a few things. First of all, notches. I often see students go to the pain staking task of cutting out little triangles. Please don’t waste your time. Simply cut on the appropriate line for your size. Once the pattern has been cut, simply make a small clip into the notch. This will help you to easily find the notch as you sew along the seam.

photo 17 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

In the event that you choose a fabric that is velvet, has velvet accents like mine does or is a corduroy, feel the fabric to determine which direction the nap runs. If the fabric feels rough as you move your hand over it, then you are pushing the nap up. If it feels smooth, then you are pushing the nap down. You want to cut the fabric so that as the coat hangs, the nap has a smooth feeling as you rub your hand down the coat.

photo 18 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

The Robson coat calls for bias tape to finish the seams. In my original coat, I purchased bias tape. You may also make your own if you like. It’s quite simple to do. It will take a little extra time, but you can customize your coat beautifully with your own bias tape. I decided to use this small checked vintage gingham for the interior of my coat. It will be unexpected!! If you do decide to make your own bias tape, please use a cotton and one that is not too heavy, but fairly lightweight.

The first step will be to straighten out the crosswise grain. With a stripe or check like mine, it’s quite easy to do. I could simply cut on the line, but to ensure that I truly have the crosswise grain, I made a small snip on the selvedge edge and then ripped the fabric across.

 photo 19 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

Once you have found the crosswise grain, simply match the crosswise grain to the selvedge of your fabric. Cut the fabric on the folded edge. This will be the bias grainline of the fabric. You must cut your bias tape on the bias of the fabric or your tape will not go around the rounded edges of the princessline seams or the pockets.

 photo 20 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

Cut your strips 1 1/4″ wide. A clear ruler works beautifully for this task.

photo 21 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

In order to have strips that are long enough for the seams of the coat, you will need to sew the strips together. The picture below shows how the strips will look when they have been matched together for sewing.

photo 22 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2 Once the seam is sewn, the bias strip will lay in a straight line.

photo 23 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2 Now that you have your bias tape ready, begin with the center back seam of your coat. All seam allowances on the Robson coat are 5/8″ unless otherwise noted. Sew the center back seam. Once sewn, lay the bias tape on top and match the edge to the edge of the seam allowance.

photo 24 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2 Stitch the bias tape to the seam allowance with a 1/4″ seam allowance. If you are using purchased bias tape, simply unfold the tape and stitch in the ditch of the fold.

photo 25 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2 Once the bias tape has been stitched to the seam allowance, fold it around the seam and then stitch it in place by stitching in the ditch.

 photo 26 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

Once all the stitching is complete, press the seam to the side.

 photo 27 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

Turn the coat to the outside and stitch in the top stitching by stitching 1/4″ away from the seam.

photo 28 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2 The top stitching is complete and the seam looks as pretty on the outside as it does on the inside!

photo 29 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

Now let’s talk about the front pricessline seam. The princessline seam gives shape over the bustline.

Find the notch that is near the top of the pattern and be sure to mark it. I am pointing to the notch on the center front pattern piece.

 photo 30 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

Look further down and you will see a notch for the belt loops and a little further down you will see a notch that marks the top of the pocket. Mark all notches of course, but pay close attention to the notch that marks the top of the pocket. We will use this notch as a guideline.

photo 31 copy Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2 Match up the notches with the side panel of the coat and pin in place. The front panel will not lay flat.

photo 31 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

To allow for the side and the front panels to lay flat, make small clips along the edge of the seam allowance of the side panel. Be careful to not clip too deep. If you clip past the 5/8″ seam allowance, the clip will show on the outside of the garment.

photo 32 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

 The seam has been sewn.

photo 33 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

 Press the side panel toward the front as you see below.

photo 34 Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

Screen Shot 2014 12 15 at 11.11.01 AM Robson Coat Sew Along   Week 2

Keep in mind that the pockets need to be attached before the princess  line seam can be sewn in place. In our next post, I will go through attaching the pockets in detail so that you will have perfect pockets!

Until then,

Sew On!!

Rhonda

www.sewbussted.com

 

Posted in Sew Along | Tagged , | 4 Comments

12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Day 5

Happy Friday! Can you believe we are already through the first week of giveaways? Let’s start the weekend with day 5 of the 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways.

12 days of xmas image 300x251 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Day 5

Today’s giveaway is a PFAFF Quilted Deluxe Roller Bag!

PF Machine Bag 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Day 5Imagine all the places you could go! There have been too many times when I had wished I could bring my machine along.

This roller bag is constructed for durability and finished with leather trim. This bag also features an exterior zip pocket for machine manuals or accessories.

More amazing attributes include:

  • Two-­‐way zip-­‐around closure
  • Built-­‐in inboard trolley
  • Telescoping trolley handle
  • Two side handles
  • Exterior zip pocket
  • Machine straps
  • Combination lock
  • Built-­‐in clips for attaching to embroidery unit bag
  • PFAFF® logo name tag
  • Nylon with vinyl leather trim
  • PFAFF® logo lining

To enter for a chance to win, simply answer the question in the comments section below:

“Where would you like to take your machine?”

Congratulations to Michelle H!  Michelle won yesterday’s prize of the Husqvarna Viking design pack Cute and Cuddly! We will be in contact with you shortly!

Visit the Creative Machine Embroidery blog Monday to find out if you won today’s prize, and for another chance to win!

Happy Holidays!

-Jessica

Jessica Z Head Shot Cropped 200 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Day 5

 

Posted in 12 Days of Giveaways | Tagged , , , | 37 Comments

12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Day 3

So happy you are taking part in the 12 Days Of Christmas Giveaways from Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery! Let’s not lose a minute and get to today’s prize!

12 days of xmas image1 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Day 3

Today we’re giving away a dress form from SINGER!

dress form 700x520 a6d832e67388ae9f230b5da1e8f90cae84f7e4531 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Day 3

Singer Dress Form Actual prize may differ in color.

Take your sewing to the next level by using a sturdy dress form. Goes without saying how useful having a dress form is. Plus, one that is adjustable and can be used for multiple body types is beyond handy for the avid seamstress.

An ideal sewing companion, this fully adjustable dress form allows for pattern adjustments before cutting, better fittings and alterations, and an opportunity to creatively work with fabrics and see how they will drape and hang on the body. Twelve dials make it easy to change the dimensions of the body, including settings at the neck for smooth collars and necklines.

The height also adjusts, and a hem gauge comes included to mark the hemline for skirts and dresses. In addition, the unit’s blue fabric cover makes it possible to pin items onto the form. The form requires basic assembly, but no tools are required.

Measurements:

  • Bust: 33 – 41 inches / 84 – 104 centimeters
  • Waist: 25 – 33 inches / 64 – 84 centimeters
  • Hips: 36 – 44 inches / 91 – 112 centimeters
  • Neck / Back: 15+ inches / 38+ centimeters

All you have to do to enter to win this prize is answer the following question in the comments section below:

“What is the hardest area to fit for you?”

And, the winner from yesterday’s contest is Darlene J! Darlene I will be in touch with you shortly to tell you how to claim your prize.

Visit the Creative Machine Embroidery blog tomorrow to find out if you won today’s prize, and for another chance to win!

Jill

head shot200 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Day 3

 

Posted in 12 Days of Giveaways | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 303 Comments

12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Starts Now!

12 days of xmas image1 300x251 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Starts Now!

I love this time of year, from November 1st to the New Year feels so festive and full of warmth. It makes me want to sit around with a mug of tea wearing an ugly sweater and start stitching!

To share our love of sewing and in the spirit of the holidays, we’re giving you a chance to win a fantastic (seriously AWESOME) prize each day for the next 12 (business) days. All you have to do is tune in to the blog here (or the Creative Machine Embroidery blog) each day and answer a simple question. One winner will be chosen each day–it could be you!!

Today we’re giving away a presser foot and accessories case from Husqvarna Viking. HV binder case open 1024x904 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Starts Now!Label, organize, store and travel with your presser feet and accessories neatly tucked away in this beautiful binder.

HV binder case 794x1024 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Starts Now!It would make a great gift for a sewist in your life–but let’s be real, it would make a great gift for you, too!

All you have to do to enter to win this great prize is answer the following question in the comments section below:

“Do you take your sewing traveling with you?”

One spring break in college, I took my machine and fabric on a trip to Chicago so I could finish up my final projects in the hotel. It was an endeavor to pack everything up and keep it organized! But honestly, that was almost my favorite part of the trip. Do you sew on-the-go?

Visit the Creative Machine Embroidery blog tomorrow to find out if you won today’s prize, and for another chance to win!

Good luck and Happy Sewing! icon smile 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Starts Now!

~Nicki

NickiHeadshot 150x150 12 Days of Christmas Giveaways Starts Now!

 

Posted in 12 Days of Giveaways, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , , | 442 Comments

Robson Coat Sew Along Sleeves

Thank you for joining in to the Robson Coat Sew Along. I’ve gotten many comments asking if it’s too late to join in and no it is not! We’ve got plenty of time, so I do hope all those thinking about it will join in. You can always catch up later, and some folks don’t finish in the weeks that we have set out but more at their leisure. I will monitor the boards for later comers for  anyone needing assistance or having questions. So, please join in! This post is all about sleeves, a slight jog from the schedule but important.

1501 Sewaholic Robson square 600 Robson Coat Sew Along Sleeves

Now let’s get to Rhonda. She has extra tips and techniques planned for you and the Robson coat

The Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Sew Along Week 1

Before we get started with our coats, I would like to talk about the sleeve. There is not a lot of ease in the sleeve cap of this pattern which results in a rather flat look at the shoulder. For some it may pose a problem in that it will not give your arm the room that you need for the coat to fit well and the garment will pull.

photo 4 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesAdjusting the sleeve is quite easy when you know what to do. Begin by cutting out the sleeve pattern. The sleeve for the Robson Trench is a 2-piece sleeve. Please don’t allow this to intimidate you. The sleeve is very easy to sew together, just be sure to mark all of the notches.

Draw in the seam allowance on the back seams of the sleeve patterns. I have only drawn in the seam allowance to the notches.

photo 5 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesOverlap the seam allowances and pin together.

photo 6 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesSquare a line across the cap, starting at the notch as you see in the picture below.

photo 7 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesCut the top of the sleeve cap away from the lower portion of the sleeve. Take a piece of paper, draw in a vertical line. Match that vertical line to the grainline in the pattern and tape the paper to the pattern piece. Draw a line 1″ above the pattern. We could add a little extra ease, but 1″ should be plenty.

photo 8 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesNow take the sleeve cap and match the remaining portion of the grainline to the vertical line and also match the cut edge of the cap to the line that was drawn in 1″ up from the lower portion of the sleeve. Tape in place.

photo 9 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesBecause we moved the cap, the seam lines will no longer match. Blend the seam lines together as I have shown in the picture below. A little will come off of the cap and a little will be added to the lower portion of the sleeve.

photo 10a Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesCarefully separate the 2 sleeve patterns from each other. Notice that the seam allowance is missing on both pieces where we made the adjustment.photo 10c Robson Coat Sew Along Sleeves

If you would like, you may tape a small piece of paper into the seam allowance area. The adjustment is complete.

 

photo 10d Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesAs for sewing the sleeve into the garment, there are a few schools of thought on the subject. Rather than explain the different methods, I am going to show you how I sew in my sleeves. I was taught by an old German tailor who was quite particular. It works, and I’m happy with the method, so I’ll pass it on to you.

Begin by sewing the sleeve together. Then sew 2 rows of gathering stitches into the cap of the sleeve, from the front notches to the back notches. I sew the first row about 1/4″ away from the edge of the sleeve cap and the other just inside the 5/8″ mark. I prefer to not take the stitches out, so that’s why I sew the second line just inside my seamline.photo 10 Robson Coat Sew Along Sleeves

Before I match the sleeve to the armhole, I draw up my gathering stitches and begin to form the head of the sleeve. Notice that the fullness is being directed to the edge of the cap. Be sure to pull on the bobbin stitches and not the top stitches.

photo 11 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesMatch the sleeve to the armhole, making sure that the notches are all aligned. Pin the sleeve in place. Adjust the gathering stitches.

photo 12 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesI sew the sleeve in place by sewing inside the armhole. I like to be able to see the gathering stitches and make adjustments as I go.

photo 13 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesHere is the original sleeve for comparison.

photo 14 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesAnd here is the adjusted sleeve. You can see that the sleeve cap has more room and doesn’t collapse against the top of the arm.

photo 15 Robson Coat Sew Along SleevesAs always, I suggest making a muslin of the coat before you cut your fashion fabric. It’s best to make adjustments to the muslin and not your fashion fabric.

Check out the video for more quick tips.
In our next post, we will talk about

  1.  Sewing princess line seams
  2.  Attaching the seam binding
  3.  Topstitching

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjnfgokjyGk

We will have another special post dedicated to sewing the pockets.

Until then….

Sew On!!!

Rhonda Buss

www.sewbussted.com

Posted in Sew Along | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Learn how to sew better, faster & for FREE

I have been sewing for a long time. But, I’ve never had any ‘formal’ education. Like most of us I am self taught as seamstress (sewists, sewers, quilters, crafters – did I get everyone).

My mom taught me first and then once I got it I taught myself pretty much everything through books, blogs, sewing groups, and so forth. I think I’ve done quite well on my own, but darn it, I’d like to learn things a little more quickly!

I was always reluctant to learn via video classes and webinars. When I paid for my first ‘class’ (snicker) I didn’t have high expectations. And, thought would this really be better than learning in person or learning from a pro?

Well, long story short I LOVED my first video class. I loved that I could watch it at home, I could start and stop whenever I wanted and could rewind, slow down, watch a technique over and over. It really was satisfying and proof entered into the pudding. When I went to make a dress I was able to use the instructors techniques for a near flawless result. I think that really is the best gauge of using a video or webinar sewing class. Can you use the techniques in your real sewing life? Do they deliver results?

Learning to sew via videos or webinars only enhances my preferred traditional way. And, using videos as a way to learn has only made me a more efficient and better seamstress.

If you would like to see if learning via videos is for you, Craft Daily has a free weekend of viewing videos. Now, (December 4, 2014) through December 7 (2014) you can watch any video for free. But be sure to cancel if you don’t want to go beyond the four days. If you want to continue it’s 19.99 a month.

So, what about you how do you like to learn? Leave me a comment in the section below! Or let me know if you took advantage of this free viewing and what class you got the most out off.

And, before you go I want to show you a few of the ones that I think you’ll get a lot out of.

Let Tish Gance showing us how to handle dummies. Duct Tape Dummies that is. If you have ever wanted to know how to make a duct tape dummy, she is the go-to person.

Screen Shot 2014 10 10 at 11.49.52 AM Learn how to sew better, faster & for FREE Working with silks and sheers can be intimidating to say the least. Let Katrina Walker walk you through step-by-step for perfect silky garments and projects.

katrina walker silks Learn how to sew better, faster & for FREEWant to tackle knits? No problem with Liz & Elizabeth Evans. Find out how to tame the knit beast and start building your knit wardrobe.

evans knit Learn how to sew better, faster & for FREEDo  yourself a favor and take advantage of these free days at Craft Daily.com!

Enjoy!

FW CraftDaily 403 Learn how to sew better, faster & for FREE

Posted in Events | Tagged , | Leave a comment