Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

At this point in the sew along, you have now experienced just how easy the Decades of Style Arches Skirt is to put together. It’s a beautiful skirt that has a lovely elegant look and because of its a-line cut, it’s also quite easy to wear.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 FinishingA lovely skirt such as this really deserves to have a lining. A lining not only gives ease in wearing the skirt, but a lining also adds to the longevity of the garment by adding a buffer between the body and the fabric. Adding a lining to this skirt is really quite simple. Nothing will need to be done to the back skirt pattern, just cut it as it is. The front skirt needs a little tweaking as we really don’t want to deal with having the style lines or the pleats in the lining. Be sure to take a look at the video. In the video, I explain exactly how to create the lining and eliminate the style lines and pleats.

Once you have made your lining, attach it to the waist of the skirt, attach the waistband and fold back the lining along the zipper and hand stitch the lining to the zipper.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

The final step is of course the hem. There is a little trick that I would like to share with you regarding the hem. If you have made an a-line skirt, you have probably experienced the hem being a little bulky and not laying flat when it is turned up. It’s really quite easy to compensate for this. As you can see in the picture below, I have not removed my basting stitches, which is okay as the stitches are just holding the interlining to the fashion fabric. Take note of the angled stitching line. If I sewed the seam as I typically would, the seam would run straight to the hem. In order to have a hem that will lay flat, simply angle the seam as you see below. Begin the angle at the point that you will turn up the hem.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

Once the angle has been sewn in, simply trim the seam allowance and then press the seam allowance open.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

A lovely finished hem is a must. A seam finish that I love and use quite often is the Hong Kong finish. With my wool skirt, I decided to accent the hem with a contrast binding. In order to do a Hong Kong finish, you will need bias tape. You can either make it yourself or purchase it as your local fabric store.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

 In order to have a smooth look to the front of my skirt, the hem is sewn with a catch stitch and the catch stitch is sewn between the inside of the hem and the backside of the skirt.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

To create the Hong Kong seam finish, lay the bias tape along the edge of the hem. Sew the bias tape to the hem with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

 Fold the bias tape down and press. Now fold the bias tape to the back.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

 On the front side of the garment, stitch in the ditch.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

 You now have a clean finish on the front of the garment.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

To do a catch stitch, using a needle and thread, take 1 stitch in the bias tape. Your needle will be facing to the left, but you will be working to the right. Now, pick up a thread in the fabric. This forms the catch stitch.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

 Now come back down and pick up a few threads in the bias tape.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

 Continue in thse manner around the entire hem of your garment.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

 By sewing the catch stitch between the back of the hem and the garment, the edge of the hem is not against the garment. This will keep the hem from making a mark on the front of the garment when pressed.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

At this point, I think you now possess all the knowledge that you need to create an incredibly beautiful skirt!

Please be sure to check out the video for more tips and tricks!

Screen Shot 2015 05 12 at 12.30.35 PM Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 4 Finishing

I hope you’ve enjoyed the sew along as much as I have enjoyed sewing with you.

Rhonda Buss

www.sewbussted.com

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Summer Time Style and How To Get It

Dear Fellow Sewers,

I’m sure the last thing you’re thinking about in the midst of spring is getting into a swimsuit, but as the weather gets hotter we’re focusing on summer style and getting ready to jump in the pool! It’s time to think about revealing a little more skin in sweet shorts, simple skirts, frilly dresses and sleeveless tops.

summer time Summer Time Style and How To Get ItShades of purple, pink and coral are prevalent this season, and they’re perfect for venturing outdoors while making a statement. Choose fabrics featuring these colors and vibrant prints to emerge from rainy spring weather like a flower in bloom.

Here are some of the things you can expect this month as we delve into the June/July issue of Sew News—on newsstands May 19. Plus, find new offerings at shopsewitall.com and shop.sewdaily.com that will help you embrace the warmer weather. SN1507 Cover 500px Summer Time Style and How To Get It     Reveal a little skin in a cute pair of shorts! Join our June/July Sew-Along to watch videos and learn from others while you create your own pair. Contrast piping gives a great pop of color and interest to these one-of-a-kind shorts.

shorts 300 Summer Time Style and How To Get It   Skirts have a forgiving fit and require little yardage, so they’re affordable and easy to sew. Find the Striped Paper Bag Waist Skirt from Stitch Summer and make your own to wear cinched with a matching or contrasting skinny belt. paper bag skirt stitch 299x300 Summer Time Style and How To Get It

There’s also a video that takes you through the construction to make things even easier. We’ve also got a second skirt option (also featuring a paper-bag waist) that has side-seam pockets. Find the Pick Pocket Skirt e-Pattern by April Rhodes, plus the video featuring it on Sew it All series 800, available on DVD.siab1412 skirt Summer Time Style and How To Get It

Making your own swimsuit ensures a proper fit and desired coverage, so why not give it a try? We have a great pattern made by Michelle Lesniak of Project Runway fame. Michelle made this swimsuit exclusively for Sew it All fans, and it’s now available as an e-Pattern.

SIAB1413 SwimStyle PatternPkg Summer Time Style and How To Get ItIf it’s not your style, perhaps you’d be interested in our vintage swimwear feature in the June/July issue of Sew News instead. The top and bottom both have fuller coverage and will have you looking like Marilyn Monroe.

swim suit piece 500 300x300 Summer Time Style and How To Get It    We’ve also expanded our online education platform to offer you more live and on-demand web seminars. Recent topics include: How to Create a Fabric Arts Business; Serger Tips, Tricks and Troubleshooting; and Writing a Sewing Tutorial 101.  These web seminars are conducted by industry experts, and they all love connecting with you. Give one a try today!

Thanks for reading,

Ellen March

Editorial Director

Sew News, Creative Machine Embroidery & Stitch magazines

 

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Sewing Book Giveaway

Happy Monday seamstresses! To ease you into the week, we have a great book giveaway for you!

9781849493659 Sewing Book Giveaway

Love at First Stitch: Demystifying Dressmaking by Tilly Walnes ­

Tilly Walnes breaks down handmade clothing in an approachable, fun-to-read way. Each chapter contains a project, beginning simple with a scarf and ending with an impressive lined dress. Plus Tilly provides variations to make the project your own and suggestions for making sewing not only a hobby but a lifestyle and incorporating sewing into a busy schedule. These helpful sections outline how to approach your trip to the fabric store for the most organized and least stressful results, and sewing for your personal style and wardrobe. Tilly walks through the basics, from sewing lingo and supplies to more advanced techniques, such as staystitching, invisible zippers and facings. With seven projects, including pants, skirts and dresses, and the full patterns in eight sizes for each, sewists of all skill levels will enjoy this beautiful book. 

Enter to win a copy of Love at First Stitch by answering the following question in the comments section below: “What’s the most difficult part of garment sewing for you?”

Update: Congratulations to winner Erin E!

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Sew News 35th Anniversary Sweepstakes Continues with Coats & Clark

Sew News 35th Anniversary Scavenger Hunt Sweepstakes – Week Three – Coats & Clark

Happy Monday! We’re hoping we can help cure your Monday blues with a new prize to be won through our 35th Anniversary Scavenger Hunt Sweepstakes.

35 Years square webf Sew News 35th Anniversary Sweepstakes Continues with Coats & Clark

This week, we’re giving away TWO prizes to one lucky winner on behalf of our sponsor, Coats & Clark! The first is a 50-piece assortment of Coats & Clark’s Dual Duty XP Thread (pictured). coats dual duty grand prize Sew News 35th Anniversary Sweepstakes Continues with Coats & Clark

 

This medium-weight thread is sized for most hand and machine sewing. It can be used on all fibers, knits, and wovens. Dual Duty XP is a strong, smooth thread for consistent tension and excellent stitch formation.

Coats & Clark’s second prize up for grabs is a 20-piece assortment of Bold Hand Quilting™ Thread. Coats Bold Hand Quilting™ provides quilters with a thread that has the luster of natural cotton and the strength of polyester, perfect for the “Big Stitch” handwork trend. The Glace finish prevents knots and tangles.

To view the scavenger hunt questions and get started, click here. The answers to the questions are hidden throughout www.coatsandclarksewingsecrets.com. You must answer all questions correctly in order to be entered to win. Good luck, and have fun!

coats and clark logo Sew News 35th Anniversary Sweepstakes Continues with Coats & Clark

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There’s Still Time to Stitch a Gift for Mom!

Looking for a last minute gift idea for mom? Shame on you for your poor planning, but we’ve got you covered! Purchase ePatterns from shopsewitall.com and use fabrics from your stash to stitch a handmade gift Mom will love. Like this belt bag:

SIAB1411 Theres Still Time to Stitch a Gift for Mom!

Or this pretty spring tote:

SIAB1416 Theres Still Time to Stitch a Gift for Mom!With all Sew News ePatterns, you get the project instructions, beautiful high-quality images, helpful how-to illustrations and the full pattern.

Is your mom crafty? Get her the kit to make this amazing hedgehog pincushion. Or a cute tape measure necklace.

SN544 Theres Still Time to Stitch a Gift for Mom!Check out the full ePattern offering and more at shopsewitall.com!

Happy Mother’s Day and happy sewing!

~Nicki

NickiHeadshot 150x150 Theres Still Time to Stitch a Gift for Mom!

 

 

 

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What’s Your Favorite Way to Spend Mother’s Day?

Ah, Mother’s Day. If you’re lucky you get to spend it doing what you love and NOT doing anything you don’t like (how’s that for a double negative).

motherday Whats Your Favorite Way to Spend Mothers Day?

My favorite Mother’s Day would be spent with the entire house cleaned by a cleaning crew, while I shop and sewed all weekend long. My favorite meals would be cooked and then little faeries would clean up every scrap, do the dishes and have the entire kitchen back to order.

Next, I would stay up really late doing whatever I wanted and then wake up to a peacefully quiet house. Oh, and I would have fresh, beautiful flowers in every room of the house.

A girl can dream can’t she? Well here are a few things that I think would be great under the Mother’s Day tree. How about you? What would your perfect Mother’s Day be like?

Cozy Toes e-pattern, so I can wear them as I shuffle around on my clean hard wood floors.

DPCOZYTOES Whats Your Favorite Way to Spend Mothers Day?E-Book on sewing lingerie. I so want to start sewing lingerie, especially my own slips.

DPSNE151101 Whats Your Favorite Way to Spend Mothers Day?Sew Chic Valentine Slip is the slip to start with!

SIAVAL Whats Your Favorite Way to Spend Mothers Day?

 

 

 

 

 

 

I actually have this book, but I cannot rave about it enough. I love Joi’s take on fitting.

U9383FP Whats Your Favorite Way to Spend Mothers Day?Of course I have a rotary cutter, but I have not splurged on a 60″. Or hint hint, someone could get me a bunch of replacement blades for my 45″!

8320 Whats Your Favorite Way to Spend Mothers Day?

 

 

 

 

 

And, some ironing tools, ’cause I like ironing tools.

3 iron products  Whats Your Favorite Way to Spend Mothers Day?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let me know how you would like to spend your Mother’s Day.

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Decades of Style – Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Today’s post is a special edition for waistband construction and the use of buckrum in garment construction. Also, please note that the You-tube video has a grey screen, but the video portion is there, just click to play. We hope you are enjoying the Decades of Style Sew Along! Now let’s have Rhonda get to it.

In today’s modern world of dressing, we seem to be getting more and more away from a traditional waistband. But a waistband should not go the way of the dinosaurs!!! A waistband offers lots of design possibilities as well as a foundation for a belt that can give the illusion of a tiny waist. Notice, I did say illusion!!!

In the accompanying video, I tell a story about a skirt that I had the opportunity to purchase when I was in high school. Believe it or not, it was an actual Yves St. Laurent wrap skirt. The wool was the most beautiful wool I had ever seen and the skirt was impeccably crafted.

It was that skirt that inspired me to take my sewing to a level that prior to that, I didn’t know existed. What intrigued me the most was the construction of the waistband. It had a hard substance inside that no matter what I did with the skirt, the waistband held its shape.

What was inside was something called waistband buckrum, not to be confused with ban roll. At the time, I was able to purchase waistband buckrum from my local fabric store. Sadly, that is no longer the case. But if you do a search for waistband buckrum, you will find a source for it on Etsy.

When I cut my waistbands, I always like to cut them on the selvage edge of the fabric. The selvage is the most stable part of the fabric and by cutting the waistband on this edge, you will be able to ensure that the waistband will hold its shape.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Since I am using the waistband buckrum inside the waistband, I did not interface my waistband, but I did add a layer of batiste, just as I did to the body of the skirt.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Once I have inserted the buckrum, the waistband is folded over and stitched in the ditch between the waistband the the skirt. As you can see, the stitches are very difficult to see.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Inside, the waistband has a finished edge thanks to the selvage edge and there is a stitching line that helps to ensure that the waist will not stretch out of shape with wearing. Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

For my cotton skirt, I cut the waistband on the selvage edge, but I added a layer of fusible knit rather than the cotton batiste. This gave my cotton just a little more body. Once the waistband is finished, I will go back and trim off the eyelashes from the edge of the fabric.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Waistband buckrum comes in various widths. I like the 1 1/4″ width. Once the waistband has been sewn to the skirt, simply lay the buckrum along the stitching line and stitch to the seam allowance.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

The buckrum will be stitched from one end of the waistband to the other.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

 To finish the ends, simply fold the waistband over and stitch the end. Clip the edge prior to turning.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Fold the edge under on a 45 degree angle on the back side so that the selvage will not interfere with the zipper.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

 The same will be done on the opposite end.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Take note that while I was stitching the waistband, once I came to the extension end, I simply turned and took 1 stitch in and then stitched to the end of the extension. Other than the stitches that you see on the extension, the stitches that are in the ditch of the waistband are virtually impossible to see.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Not only was the waistband finished beautifully on that Yves St. Laurent skirt, the hooks were as well.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

To stitch a hook in this manner, I begin by tying a knot that I hide underneath my hook.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

 I then come through the hole in the hook and form a figure 8 with my thread. I then insert my needle into the back of the top loop of the figure 8.  Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Once the first stitch is established, insert the needle, form a loop,

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

 and then insert the needle into the loop.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

 Continue all the way around the hook and pull tight.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

Your finished hook will be lovely and even better, you won’t have to worry about the hook threads unraveling.

 Decades of Style   Arches Skirt Sew Along: Week 3 Professional Waistband Options

In our next post, we will talk about how to create a lining for the Arches skirt. It takes just a little extra time, but it is time well spent!

Rhonda Buss

www.sewbussted.com

Additionally, the video says week 4 but it is in fact for week 3. (It’s Monday! )The video team will make that correction, until then please take a look for more tips from Rhonda.

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Sew News 35th Anniversary Giveaway Continues – With Arrow Cabinets!

A New Day, A New Chance to Win…A Sewing Cabinet!
Happy Monday! We hope you had a wonderful weekend. Today’s a new day, with a new scavenger hunt and cool sewing prize to win!

35 Years square webf Sew News 35th Anniversary Giveaway Continues   With Arrow Cabinets!Our next scavenger hunt sponsor is Arrow Cabinets, maker of diverse and stylish furniture that’s suitable for your sewing needs. From tables to cabinets to chairs, Arrow’s furniture caters specifically to the avid sewist, as well as quilters and embroiders. No more sewing on your kitchen table!

arrow grand prize olivia cabinet Sew News 35th Anniversary Giveaway Continues   With Arrow Cabinets!Arrow has been kind enough to provide their Olivia Cabinet as the grand prize in this scavenger hunt! Valued at $660, this vintage-inspired cabinet comes in a stylish pistachio color and features a 64-inch-wide table top, as well as ample storage space to keep your area organized.  An adjustable mechanism allows you to move your sewing machine to your liking, so you can sit comfortably as you work.

To view the scavenger hunt questions and get started, click here.  You’ll find the answers to the questions at www.arrowcabinets.com. The scavenger hunt begins today and ends on Monday, May 11, and you must answer all questions correctly in order to be entered to win.

Good luck, and have fun!

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Pattern Giveaway!

The new issue of Sew News will be hitting newsstands in a few weeks, but we know how life can get away from you sometimes: Have you read through the current issue yet?? If not, take a gander at the cute projects and great techniques (not to mention the redesigned layout).

If you’re not familiar with the Cool Tools column, it’s packed with the best new notions, fabric and patterns to help YOU get the most out of your sewing. Visit shopsewitall.com for even more great tools.

In this issue, we brought you these nifty outdoor clothing patterns by The Green Pepper. And now you have a chance to win them!

539coverRaincoat 229x300 Pattern Giveaway! 524coverZpLgPant 229x300 Pattern Giveaway! 102 CoverMens 229x300 Pattern Giveaway!

Enter to win these great patterns by answering this question in the comments section at the end of the post: “Have you ever stitched a jacket or other outdoor clothing?”

It can be intimidating; all those zippers, buttons, snaps, plus the heavyweight fabric! The clear instructions in these patterns will help you navigate these new waters for an excellent finished garment!

Good luck and happy sewing!

NickiHeadshot 150x150 Pattern Giveaway!

~Nicki

 

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Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

Thanks for joining week 2 of the Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along. We’re now moving into the construction phase of the sew along. But, there is still time to join in at any time of the sew along. Be sure to post pics on our Flickr page. Decades of Style would love to see what you are making as would we! Leave comments on the blog and Rhonda or myself will answer. So, take it away Rhonda!

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

The Decades of Style Arches Skirt is the perfect pattern for taking your sewing skills to a little higher level. In recent years, especially with knits becoming the mainstay of our wardrobes, underlining has become somewhat a thing of the past. But here’s the catch, once you’ve underlined a garment, there’s no going back! The garment will hang and wear beautifully.

Typically, a garment that has been underlined will only need a little steaming before it is worn again. The wool crepe skirt that is in the magazine was underlined with cotton batiste and the cotton that I have chosen for the sew along will also be underlined with the same fine weight of cotton batiste. As I said in our last post, do not use muslin or quilting cotton as you will not achieve the desired outcome.

Once you have purchased your cotton batiste, wash, dry and iron it prior to cutting. Cut the batiste just as you did your fashion fabric. Lay the batiste over the cut fashion fabric pieces and once again, lightly steam the 2 fabrics together. Pin the fabrics together and then hand baste the batiste to your fashion fabric. Be sure to hand baste the 2 together as the tension on your machine may be a little tight. We want the stitches to be firm, but not too tight.

I do my basting stitches just inside the seam allowance so that there will be no need to remove them once the skirt has been sewn together. Once you have basted the batiste to all of your garment pieces, lay the pattern pieces back over the batiste and mark all dots and cross marks with tailor tacks. It is imperative that you are very diligent about the markings on this skirt.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

After the videos were done for the sew along, I found this great piece of piping and knew that it would be the perfect accent for the arch in my skirt. Adding piping is really quite simple to do.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

The seam allowance on the arches skirt is 5/8″. Simply lay the piping on the 5/8″ line and sew in place. Take note that I stopped sewing the piping at the cross mark and then left just about a 1″ tail.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

Press back the seam allowances on the 2 pleat panels of the skirt and then lay them over the center panel. Take note that the left front panel will need to be trimmed.

Begin with the left front panel. Lay it over the center panel and pin in place. Now, attach the pleat panel to the center panel by top stitching the pleat panel to the center panel. The top stitching will end at the cross mark. Repeat with the right pleat panel.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

In order to have a clean finish, I simply turned back my piping at the cross mark and then finished my top stitching just below the piping. The end of the piping is then hidden inside the top stitching.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

In the picture below, you can see where I have pinned my pleat panel to the center panel and my final pin is just below the piping that has been turned back.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

The piping is in place and the point of the arch is perfect. Since the 2 pleat panels are laid over the center panel and top stitched in place, the point of the arch will always be perfect.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

Now lay the pleat panels over the side front panels and top stitch them in place. After all of the panels have been top stitched together, sew the pleat seams. The front of the skirt is now complete.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

 The piping adds just the right amount to interest to the arched shaping.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

The next step will be to sew the zipper into the center back seam and sew in the back skirt darts. Once that has been completed, sew the front skirt to the back skirt. At this point, try the skirt on and make any necessary fit adjustments.

https://youtu.be/vxt24nuS6dY

In our next post we will talk about making the waistband and adding a special insert that will give you a waistband that will always hold its shape. We will also sew in the hooks and I will show you how to do a lovely stitched edge around the hooks.

So until then, happy basting!!!!

Rhonda Buss

www.sewbussted.com

Posted in Arches Skirt, Sew Chic Sew Along, Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 3 Comments