Drafting different collars is an easy way to take a basic pattern and stretch it into what will seem like many patterns. For this post and the upcoming collar posts throughout May, we will be using this pattern, Butterick 5678. There are 2 collars incorporated into the pattern, a convertible shirt collar that has a collar band. The collar band can also be used alone as a basic stand or mandarin collar.
The first collar we will be drafting is the Peter Pan collar. It’s a very simple to draft collar. This collar can be drafted so that it has no stand and lays flat against the garment, or it can be drafted to have varying amounts of stand. I will be showing you how to draft the collar with a stand.
To begin, you will need to mark the seam allowance on the pattern pieces as you see in the pictures below.
Once the seam allowances have been marked, pin the center front and the side front together overlapping the seams. Do the same with the back pattern pieces. Pin the front and back together overlapping at the shoulders.
Once the front and back are pinned together, measure down from the shoulder only on the back piece 1″, 2″, 3″ or 4″ depending upon the amount of stand you would like for your collar to have. 1″ will give a 1/4″ stand. 2″ will give 1/2″ stand. 3″ will give 3/4″ stand and 4″ will give a 1″ stand. A 4″ overlap is the maximum amount that that the shoulder can be overlapped and a 1″ stand then would be the maximum stand for this type of collar.
In the above picture, the front is overlapping the back by 1″.
At this point, draw in the shape of your collar. The width of a typical Peter Pan collar is 2 1/2″.
The front of the pattern has been moved to the 2″ mark which will give a 1/2″ stand to the collar. You can see that once the collar has been drawn in, the shape will remain the same, we are only changing the radius of the neckline which will give a higher stand to the collar.
In the above picture, you can see the shape of the collar once it has been transferred to paper. Be sure to draw in the seam allowance along the edge of the collar. I like to use 1/4″ so that I will not have to trim away the seam allowance once the collar is sewn.
In the picture below, you can see the shape of the collar when the shoulder has been moved to the 2″ overlap mark.
And finally, the shape of the collar once the shoulder has been moved to the 3″ overlap mark. Personally, I do not care for a Peter Pan collar that has a 1″ stand as it is very high on the back of the neck.
In the picture below, you see the 3 collars stacked on top of each other. Now you can see how the neckline changes with the movement of the shoulder overlap. Typically, this collar is cut so that the center back is on the fold. If you would like, you may cut the collar on the bias, just be sure to add seam allowance to the center back.
This picture shows a 1/2″ stand. The roll of the collar is much closer to the seam.
In order to attach the collars, I needed to make an interior band.
To make this band, cut a 3″ bias strip and sew it to the neckline with a 5/8″ seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance once it is sewn down to 1/4″.
You will need to add a button band to the collar as well. Cut another 3″ wide bias strip and sew it to the collar with a 5/8″ seam allowance(we are using a 5/8″ seam allowance because this is the seam allowance on the pattern). I spaced my buttons approximately 2 1/2″ apart on the shirt. Mark for buttonholes on the collar band to coordinate with the buttons on the shirt.
One of my collars has a decorative edge. I did this by cutting a 2″ wide bias strip and sewed it to the collar. Be sure to trim away the seam allowance on the edge of the collar prior to sewing on the bias strip. If you don’t, the collar will be too large for the neckline of the shirt. In the picture below you can see the front and back of the collar. The bias was wrapped to the back of the collar and stitched down.
A basic shirt pattern like Butterick 5678 offers so many possibilities. If you look closely at my shirt, you will see that my sleeve is quite different from the sleeve shown on the pattern. If you would like to find out how to draft this sleeve, you can find all of the instructions here, on my blog, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2013/05/sleeves-on-saturdays.html
I hope that you’ll give the Peter Pan collars a try and maybe even try making them detachable. It will give your shirt lots of possibilities and you’ll be able to decide just the right amount of stand that you will like the most.