Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss – Collar Tutorial!

Drafting different collars is an easy way to take a basic pattern and stretch it into what will seem like many patterns. For this post and the upcoming collar posts throughout May, we will be using this pattern, Butterick 5678. There are 2 collars incorporated into the pattern, a convertible shirt collar that has a collar band. The collar band can also be used alone as a basic stand or mandarin collar.

B5678 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

 

collar 11 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

The first collar we will be drafting is the Peter Pan collar. It’s a very simple to draft collar. This collar can be drafted so that it has no stand and lays flat against the garment, or it can be drafted to have varying amounts of stand. I will be showing you how to draft the collar with a stand.

To begin, you will need to mark the seam allowance on the pattern pieces as you see in the pictures below.

collar 2 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

collar 3 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

collar 4 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

Once the seam allowances have been marked, pin the center front and the side front together overlapping the seams. Do the same with the back pattern pieces. Pin the front and back together overlapping at the shoulders.

collar 5 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

collar 6 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

Once the front and back are pinned together, measure down from the shoulder only on the back piece 1″, 2″, 3″ or 4″ depending upon the amount of stand you would like for your collar to have. 1″ will give a 1/4″ stand. 2″ will give 1/2″ stand. 3″ will give 3/4″ stand and 4″ will give a 1″ stand. A 4″ overlap is the maximum amount that that the shoulder can be overlapped and a 1″ stand then would be the maximum stand for this type of collar.

collar 7 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

In the above picture, the front is overlapping the back by 1″.

At this point, draw in the shape of your collar. The width of a typical Peter Pan collar is 2 1/2″.

collar 9 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!collarx Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

The front of the pattern has been moved to the 2″ mark which will give a 1/2″ stand to the collar. You can see that once the collar has been drawn in, the shape will remain the same, we are only changing the radius of the neckline which will give a higher stand to the  collar.

collar 10 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

In the above picture, you can see the shape of the collar once it has been transferred to paper. Be sure to draw in the seam allowance along the edge of the collar. I like to use 1/4″ so that I will not have to trim away the seam allowance once the collar is sewn.

In the picture below, you can see the shape of the collar when the shoulder has been moved to the 2″ overlap mark.

collar 111 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

collar 12 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

And finally, the shape of the collar once the shoulder has been moved to the 3″ overlap mark. Personally, I do not care for a Peter Pan collar that has a 1″ stand as it is very high on the back of the neck.

In the picture below, you see the 3 collars stacked on top of each other. Now you can see how the neckline changes with the movement of the shoulder overlap. Typically, this collar is cut so that the center back is on the fold. If you would like, you may cut the collar on the bias, just be sure to add seam allowance to the center back.

collar 13 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!In the following picture, you can see how a 3/4″ stand will look on the collar.

collar 14 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

 

collar 15 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

This picture shows a 1/2″ stand. The roll of the collar is much closer to the seam.

collar 16 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!I elected to make my shirt without an attached collar.

In order to attach the collars, I needed to make an interior band.

collar 17 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

To make this band, cut a 3″ bias strip and sew it to the neckline with a 5/8″ seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance once it is sewn down to 1/4″.

collar 18 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

You will need to add a button band to the collar as well. Cut another 3″ wide bias strip and sew it to the collar with a 5/8″ seam allowance(we are using a 5/8″ seam allowance because this is the seam allowance on the pattern). I spaced my buttons approximately 2 1/2″ apart on the shirt.  Mark for buttonholes on the collar band to coordinate with the buttons on the shirt.

collar 19 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

One of my collars has a decorative edge. I did this by cutting a 2″ wide bias strip and sewed it to the collar. Be sure to trim away the seam allowance on the edge of the collar prior to sewing on the bias strip. If you don’t, the collar will be too large for the neckline of the shirt. In the picture below you can see the front and back of the collar. The bias was wrapped to the back of the collar and stitched down.

collar 20 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

A basic shirt pattern like Butterick 5678 offers so many possibilities. If you look closely at my shirt, you will see that my sleeve is quite different from the sleeve shown on the pattern. If you would like to find out how to draft this sleeve, you can find all of the instructions here, on my blog, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2013/05/sleeves-on-saturdays.html

collar 211 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Collar Tutorial!

I hope that you’ll give the Peter Pan collars a try and maybe even try making them detachable. It will give your shirt lots of possibilities and you’ll be able to decide just the right amount of stand that you will like the most.

Rhonda Buss

www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
This entry was posted in Tutorials and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

14 Responses to Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss – Collar Tutorial!

  1. June says:

    Great instructions. I have sewed for over 40 years and you taught me something new today.

  2. You make it looks so easy, thanks for sharing. I have tried this on my won before, but I couldn’t figure out the collar stand and didn’t like the results. Yours looks fabulous, I even like the bias trim, and that sleeve is gorgeous!

  3. Mary says:

    Nice post. Rhonda. A lot of people have never seen real pattern drafting and this is a great example of it!

  4. Rhonda Buss says:

    That’s an incredible compliment Mary. Thank you!

  5. Jill says:

    I think it looks so sweet. I love the peter pan collar I think it softens the shirt.

  6. Jill says:

    One more thing… I think this post is great because many people want to draft patterns and they start with something huge, like pants! Well, here is something that is much smaller to tackle. Love it!

  7. Rhonda Buss says:

    I didn’t see the other posts earlier. Thanks so much June, Jill and Becki!

  8. Karen Barnes says:

    I really like the bias on the outside edge of the collar – an old time look and still fresh.
    Very clear instructions too.

  9. shan says:

    Thanks for explaining the instructions for a detachable collar , I’ve
    often seen it discussed in sewing mags and books but with no details.

  10. Cennetta says:

    Rhonda,
    Excellent. The blouse looks wonderful. Thank you so much for the details. This makes it easy to follow and understand. I’m bookmarking/pinning this. I wish Sew News had an automatic up-date notification system for your tutorial.
    Thanks again,
    Cennetta

  11. Jill says:

    Thank you for bookmarking! Rhonda does excellent work. I will take your comment about the notification to our IT team, it’s a good point. Thank you.

  12. Pingback: Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss & The Sailor Collar Tutorial | Sew News

  13. visit says:

    Hmm is anyone else encountering problems with the images on
    this blog loading? I’m trying to find out if its a problem on my end or if it’s the blog.
    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

  14. Jill says:

    No one has made a comment about the images. They are sized small for easy loading. Have you had any trouble with the other tutorials? They are all formated the same. Maybe try viewing it in a different browser?

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