Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss – Part 2 Collar Tutorial!

This week’s collar is a simple one, the Revere Collar. It’s great on a shirt where you would like a little more detail, but don’t want a collar against the back of your neck. Revere is another name for lapel. It is actually an extension of the front opening of the garment which folds back revealing the facing.

All of our collars will be drafted using Butterick 5678 as our base pattern.

B5678 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!As usual, I can rarely leave a pattern alone, they are like a blank canvas that just begs for something more. I drafted the revere collar, but decided to spice it up a bit by adding a bias accent around the entire shirt. The bias gives the effect of a collar without the drafting!

rb collar 1 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial! In this picture you can see the that the collar is just a lapel.

rb collar 2 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!

From the back you can see that there is no collar, just the bias trim.

rb collar 3 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!To draft the revere collar, I suggest transferring the center front pattern piece of the shirt to a new piece of paper. I cut away the button extension on the pattern because I added the bias trim to the front of the shirt. If you would like a normal button front shirt, leave the button extension on the pattern.

rb collar 4 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!Determine how low you would like the front opening on your shirt to be. Take a tape measure and measure from the bottom of your neck down your center front to determine this measurement. Transfer that measurement to the pattern and place a mark as you see in the picture below.

rb collar 5 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!From the shoulder point, draw a straight line to the center front mark. This will be the roll line of the collar.

rb collar 6 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!Now draw in the desired shape of your collar. My collar is 4″ wide at the shoulder area and is slightly curved back to the center front mark.

rb collar 7 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!Fold your paper on the roll line. Using a tracing wheel, trace over the drawn lines of the collar.

rb collar 8 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!Unfold the paper and draw in the traced lines.

rb collar 9 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!You will no longer be using the lines of the original neckline.

rb collar 10 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!In the picture below you can see how the collar will fold back.

rb collar 11 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!The final pattern. I placed notches at the shoulder and at the center front and then drew in the roll line of the collar. Be sure to add seam allowance to the center front of the pattern. I did not show the seam allowance in the picture below.

rb collar 12 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!This collar needs a facing. To cut out the shirt, use the original pieces of the pattern, the side front, side back and the center back and cut as directed on the pattern. Use the new pattern piece that was drafted for the front and cut 2 for the front of the shirt and 2 for the facing, 4 in total.

If you would like to add the bias accent as I did, cut a bias strip 3″ wide. Sew 1 edge of the bias strip around the entire front of the shirt. Press the other edge 1/4″ and then fold the bias strip in half and match the pressed edge to the seam line around the front of the shirt. Hand stitch in place.  To add the buttons, you will need to leave small openings on the right side of the shirt. An easy way to remember where the buttonholes go on a woman’s shirt is this little saying, “A woman is always right!” In other words, the buttonholes always go on the right side of the garment. A sewing teacher told me this little saying when I was in high school and I have yet to forget it!

rb collar 13 Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss   Part 2 Collar Tutorial!

My shirt is also straight along the bottom edge. I folded up the shirt tail on the pattern and made the finished edge straight all the way around. The 3″ bias strip was also sewn to the bottom edge of the shirt.

For a tutorial on how to draft the sleeves, you can see my blog post here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2013/05/sleeves-on-saturdays_14.html

Isn’t it amazing what can be done with a basic pattern? My shirt looks nothing like the original pattern except for the fit.

Next week we’ll be drafting another collar, so be sure to come back by!

Rhonda Buss

www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com

 

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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10 Responses to Guest Blogger Rhonda Buss – Part 2 Collar Tutorial!

  1. Carrie C. says:

    Great tutorial! I love changing patterns! I think the only time I don’t change them is when I’m in a rush or my customer wants something very specific!

  2. Jill says:

    Yes! And, when you know how to do it there possibilities are endless. I do like reading posts like this because Rhonda offers up changes that I don’t necessarily think of.

  3. Vicki says:

    I haven’t seen a collar like this before. Something different. And agree it is good not to have to worry about fit (assuming the shirt has already been fitted) and just create.

  4. Georgia says:

    Thank you so much for these tutorials. I’ve always been one to follow the pattern and I’m excited to see what can be done. Your instructions are wonderfully clear, and I’m looking forward to branching out.

  5. Irene says:

    Your explanation of how to draw this one makes much more sense than what I’ve been working from. You make it so easy! I’ll have to try this out soon.

  6. Rhonda Buss says:

    Hi Vicki, I did fit the shirt first:-) Really important. Nothing worse than spending tons of time on a piece, putting it on for the first time and it not fitting!!!

  7. Andrea says:

    Rhonda, loving your collar series. This one is gorgeous! Can’t wait to see what you come up with next.

  8. Susie says:

    I love this collar, Rhonda. Thanks for sharing your genius with us!

  9. Rhonda Buss says:

    Thanks Andrea and Susie :-)

  10. badmos says:

    sincerely,i learnt from this tutorial,thank u and am going to keep looking

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