The Raised Collar Neckline
The raised collar is an easy to draft collar that looks good on just about everyone.
The sleeve was redrafted from the original pattern. Remember, we are using Butterick 5678 as our basic sloper for all of the collars that we are drafting in this series. If you would like to see how the sleeve was drafted, you can find it here on my blog, http://www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2013/05/sleeves-on-saturdays_18.html. The sleeve is a bit of a twist on the traditional petal sleeve, so I decided to call it the Twisted Petal Sleeve.
Many of us have a curve in the upper portion of our backs, so I suggest that you add seam allowance to the center back seam. The center back pattern piece for Butterick 5678 is cut on the fold, so just add the seam allowance. This will aid greatly in fitting.
Now draw in your desired shape for the front neckline. The portion of the collar that angles off the shoulder line is 3″ long. Then I determined how low I would like my neckline to be and I drew in a curved neckline.
Add the button extension to the center front as well as seam allowance. Here is the formula for determining how wide the button extension should be, 1/2 the size of the button plus 1/4″. So, if you have a 1/2″ button, half the size of the button would be 1/4″. Add 1/4″ to this measurement and it will be a 1/2″ button extension. This just happens to work out for a 1/2″ button. Note that for a 1″ button the extension would be 3/4″.
To develop the facing for the back, measure down 5″ from the top of the neckline and angle a line over to the side seam as you see in the above picture. Below you see the final patterns for the back, front and the new back neck facing.
As I said, this is a very pretty neckline detail which will look good on almost anyone. I hope you’ll give it a try. Just remember that you may have to do a little fitting to get the neckline to lay as mine does. Use the shoulder seams as well as the center back seam to achieve a flawless neckline!!!