Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial!

The Raised Collar Neckline

The raised collar is an easy to draft collar that looks good on just about everyone.

collar 1 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! The collar gives a very slim and lengthening appearance to the neckline.

collar 2 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! It can be drafted so that it closes at center front, or in the case of this blouse, give an interesting and eye catching detail to the neckline.

collar 3 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! The sleeve was redrafted from the original pattern. Remember, we are using Butterick 5678 as our basic sloper for all of the collars that we are drafting in this series. If you would like to see how the sleeve was drafted, you can find it here on my blog,  http://www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2013/05/sleeves-on-saturdays_18.html. The sleeve is a bit of a twist on the traditional petal sleeve, so I decided to call it the Twisted Petal Sleeve.

collar 4 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! To draft the raised neckline, begin with the center back pattern piece.

collar 5 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! Extend the center back line up 2″.

collar 6 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! Square a line over to the shoulder from the center back line. From the edge of the pattern at the shoulder, blend a softly curved line to meet the new raised  neckline seam.

collar 7 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! Many of us have a curve in the upper portion of our backs, so I suggest that you add seam allowance to the center back seam. The center back pattern piece for Butterick 5678 is cut on the fold, so just add the seam allowance. This will aid greatly in fitting.

collar 8 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! Now take the center front pattern piece. I eliminated the button extension from the pattern for drafting.

collar 9 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! Take the back pattern with the raised neckline and trace the curved shoulder line on to the front so that both will match.

collar 10 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! You can see in the picture below that I have laid the back over the front showing you that both shoulders are the same.

collar 11 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! Now draw in your desired shape for the front neckline. The portion of the collar that angles off the shoulder line is 3″ long. Then I determined how low I would like my neckline to be and I drew in a curved neckline.

collar 12 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! Add the button extension to the center front as well as seam allowance. Here is the formula for determining how wide the button extension should be, 1/2 the size of the button plus 1/4″. So, if you have a 1/2″ button, half the size of the button would be 1/4″. Add 1/4″ to this measurement and it will be a 1/2″ button extension. This just happens to work out for a 1/2″ button. Note that for a 1″ button the extension would be 3/4″.

collar 13 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! The front facing for this neckline will be the same as the center front pattern piece, so you will cut 2 for the front and 2 for the facings, 4 in total.

collar 14 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! To develop the facing for the back, measure down 5″ from the top of the neckline and angle a line over to the side seam as you see in the above picture. Below you see the final patterns for the back, front and the new back neck facing.

collar 15 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! For my blouse, I once again took off the shirttail from the original pattern and finished off the hem edge with a bias trim.

collar 16 Rhonda Buss the Raised Collar Neckline Tutorial! As I said, this is a very pretty neckline detail which will look good on almost anyone. I hope you’ll give it a try. Just remember that you may have to do a little fitting to get the neckline to lay as mine does. Use the shoulder seams as well as the center back seam to achieve a flawless neckline!!!

Rhonda Buss

www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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