Rhonda Buss’ Wide Shawl Collar Tutorial

The Wide Variation Of The Shawl Collar

The last collar we drafted was the shawl collar, but it was a narrow variation.collar 1 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar Tutorial

As you can see in the picture below, the collar just covers the back neck seam line.

collar 2 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialSo, how do we draft a collar that will spread gracefully over the shoulders?

collar 3 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialAs you can see, this collar has the same stand as the previous collar, but angles out over the shoulders.

collar 4 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialIt also spreads out over the back of the garment.

collar 5 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialRemember, we are using Butterick 5678 to draft all of the collars in this series. To draft the wide variation of the shawl collar, we will begin just the same as we did with the narrow variation. Here is a link to refresh your memory, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2013/06/05/the-shawl-collar-tutorial-by-guest-blogger-rhonda-buss/

Briefly we will go through the steps.

Begin with the center front pattern piece. Remove the seam allowances as it will make drafting much easier and less confusing.

collar 6 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialDetermine how deep you would like the center front opening to be and determine the width of the buttons that you will be using. Place a mark for the break point and add the button extension.

collar 7 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialDraw a line connecting the neck edge at the shoulder with the edge of the button extension.

collar 8 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialMeasure the back neckline. This will determine how much the line will be extended past the shoulder. The width of the collar will be 2 1/2″.

collar 9 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialDivide the extended area into 4 equal sections. Please remember to number the sections.

collar 10 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialCut through the sections and spread them equally so that they form a curved line. The more you spread the sections, the flatter the collar will lay over the shoulders.

collar 11 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialExtend the original collar line. For the collar that I drafted, I extended this line to 5″. Draw in the desired shape of your collar. You are free to be quite inventive if you like!

collar 12 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialIf you would like an even wider version of this collar, more of a cape collar, extend this line another 2″ to 3″ as you see in the above picture.

collar 14 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar Tutorial

The final pattern. This piece will be your center front pattern piece as well as your front facing piece, so you will cut 2 for the front and 2 for the facing.

collar 15 Rhonda Buss Wide Shawl Collar TutorialAs you can see, I made the pattern into a shirt dress which is perfect for summer. This is quite simple to do, just extend the pattern to your desired length. Who knew that one pattern could be so very versatile?!!

Rhonda Buss

Find more at Rhonda’s Creative Life!

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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6 Responses to Rhonda Buss’ Wide Shawl Collar Tutorial

  1. Vicki says:

    These tutorials really show how much you can do with one pattern. Thanks Rhonda.

  2. Jill says:

    She does amazing work, and she makes it look so easy!

  3. Ginger says:

    Thanks for all these tutorials. Love the green dress.

  4. Rhonda Buss says:

    Thanks everyone! So glad you like them.

  5. Diana says:

    I continue to be amazed by Rhonda`s ingenuity. So glad to have found her blog and this one.

  6. fahima says:

    I LOVE UR BLOG its nice of u to share these. pls. can u show a Asymmetric collar as in newlook 6000 pattern?? plssssssssss

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