The Sailor Collar
The Sailor Collar isn’t just for sailors! It’s also a collar that seems to always find its place in fashion.
The collar does not need to be the typical navy and white. Any color combination will work. As you can see, I chose to do my jacket in a black cotton pique and I accented it with a black and white floral print and then edged it with a red and white striped piping.
Remember, we are using Butterick 5678
to draft all the collars that we have done in this series. If you would like to easily access the collars, you can find them on this Pinterest board, http://pinterest.com/sewbussted/collar-drafting/.
Drafting the Sailor Collar is similar to drafting the Peter Pan Collar. You can find that post here, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2013/05/08/guest-blogger-rhonda-buss-collar-tutorial/
To draft the Sailor Collar, we will begin by putting the center back and the side back as well as the center front and the side front pieces of the pattern together. You can see an example of this in the picture below.
Once you have done this, match the front to the back at the neckline and then overlap the shoulder 1”. If you will remember, when we did the Peter Pan Collars, we overlapped the shoulders at varying amounts in order to have a different amount of stand to the collar. The same can be done with the Sailor Collar.
Once the shoulders have been overlapped, you can now draw in the style lines for your collar.
Determine how deep you would like your center front neck opening to be and mark this on your pattern. Now determine the amount that will be needed for the button extension and extend this amount out from the center front of the pattern. The button extension is half the size of your button plus ½”. So if you have a 1” button, half the size of the button is ½”, plus ½” will equal 1”. Your extension then will be 1”.
Draw a line from the edge of the button extension to the shoulder at the neck edge.
Determine how long you would like your collar to be at center back. I made mine 8” long from my back neckline. Draw in the lines as you see in the above picture. Be sure to mark a notch on the collar at the shoulder. You can see this in red in the picture below.
The final patterns. The center back of the collar will be cut on the fold.
As I said earlier in the post, I decided to turn my shirt pattern into a jacket with pockets. If you would like to see how I did this, drop by my blog tomorrow, Thursday, June 27th and I will have an in depth tutorial on how I made a double breasted, boxy jacket with pockets. You can find my blog at http://www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com/
Now that you know how easy it is to draft a Sailor Collar, don’t let the summer fashion ship sail away without one in your wardrobe!! Whew, that’s awfully corny!!!!!