Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5 – Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist

photo 19 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist This week, our dress really begins to take shape with the addition of the skirt. Before we attach the skirt to the bodice, we’ll sew in the side seam pockets. Side seam pockets are a wonderful addition to almost any skirt and they are very easy to sew in. The first step to a successful side seam pocket is to be sure and mark the notches on both the pocket as well as the side seam of the skirt. Once you have marked the notches, sewing in the pocket is a breeze!

Begin by matching the pocket notches to the side seam notches, right sides facing.

photo 23 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist Sew the pocket to the skirt with a ¼” seam allowance.

photo 33 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist Once the pocket has been sewn to the side seam of the skirt, open the pocket out so that the right side of the skirt and pocket is facing up.

photo 43 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist Sew along the edge of the pocket seam.  This extra stitching line will help to reinforce the pocket seam and keep it from stretching.

Once the pockets have been sewn to both side seams, it’s time to close up the pockets. Match pockets and side seams. This is where you will need to pay close attention to the notches. In the picture below, I have marked the notches with pins.

photo 52 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist Sew the side seam of the skirt up to the notch. I start from the hem and sew up to the first notch.

photo 62 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist Leave the space between the notches open and then sew from the second notch to the waist line of the skirt.

photo 72 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist Now we will sew the pocket closed. Begin at the side seam, and sew around the pocket with a 5/8” seam allowance.

photo 82 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist The bottom of the pocket seam will meet the side seam.

photo 92 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist The pocket has now been attached to the skirt and we are ready to attach the skirt to the bodice.

If you are lining your dress, it is very easy to line the skirt. Simply cut the lining for the skirt exactly as you did for your fashion fabric, just omit the pocket.

Once you have sewn your lining, baste it to the waistline of the skirt. photo 102 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist Wrong sides should be facing each other. Since I am lining my skirt, I simply press my seams open. If you would like, you can serge the seams, but it is not necessary.

photo 112 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist The back of the skirt is fuller than the front and you will need to sew in 2 rows of basting stitches only along the back of the skirt at the waistline.

Once the gathering stitches have been sewn in, it’s time to attach the bodice to the skirt. Match the bodice to the skirt with the lining matching. Sew the bodice to the skirt with a 1/8” seam allowance.

photo 122 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist As you can see, the seam is on the outside of the garment at this point.

photo 133 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist In order to finish this seam, we will now sew the waist from the inside of the garment with a ½” seam allowance. What we have done is sewn the waist with a French Seam. Be sure to leave an opening so that you can insert the elastic. photo 142 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist

Take the elastic and pull it around your waist so that it is comfortable. Attach a safety pin to one end and then insert the elastic through the opening which is on the outside of the dress. photo 152 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist

Once the elastic is inserted, overlap ends and sew together being careful not to twist the elastic. photo 162 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist

From the inside of the dress, sew the elastic opening closed.

photo 173 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist The inside of our dress looks just as lovely as the outside. By attaching the elastic in this manner, if for some reason you need to remove the elastic and insert a new piece, it can easily be done by just opening the seam a little on the right side of the dress. photo 181 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist

The final steps in finishing our dress will be to add the buttons and buttonholes to the bodice and finish the hem. I will be adding a ruffle to the hem of my dress that will coordinate with the ruffles that were added to the collar and sleeves.

photo 191 Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5   Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist

We will talk about adding a bias trim to the hem of the skirt as well.

Be sure to check out the video portion where I talk about an easy way to apply buttons, interfacing and more!

So, we are almost finished! I can’t wait to wear my new dress. I hope you are having success with your dress as well. I look forward to seeing your finished dresses on the Clara Dress Flickr page. https://www.flickr.com/groups/sn_sewalong2/

Rhonda Buss

Rhonda’s Creative Life

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
This entry was posted in Sew-Along - Clara Dress and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to Clara Dress Sew Along Week 5 – Lining, Skirt & Fitting the Waist

  1. Pingback: Clara Dress Sew Along Final Week! Finishing Details | Sew News

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>