This week, our dress really begins to take shape with the addition of the skirt. Before we attach the skirt to the bodice, we’ll sew in the side seam pockets. Side seam pockets are a wonderful addition to almost any skirt and they are very easy to sew in. The first step to a successful side seam pocket is to be sure and mark the notches on both the pocket as well as the side seam of the skirt. Once you have marked the notches, sewing in the pocket is a breeze!
Begin by matching the pocket notches to the side seam notches, right sides facing.
Once the pockets have been sewn to both side seams, it’s time to close up the pockets. Match pockets and side seams. This is where you will need to pay close attention to the notches. In the picture below, I have marked the notches with pins.
If you are lining your dress, it is very easy to line the skirt. Simply cut the lining for the skirt exactly as you did for your fashion fabric, just omit the pocket.
Once you have sewn your lining, baste it to the waistline of the skirt. Wrong sides should be facing each other. Since I am lining my skirt, I simply press my seams open. If you would like, you can serge the seams, but it is not necessary.
Once the gathering stitches have been sewn in, it’s time to attach the bodice to the skirt. Match the bodice to the skirt with the lining matching. Sew the bodice to the skirt with a 1/8” seam allowance.
In order to finish this seam, we will now sew the waist from the inside of the garment with a ½” seam allowance. What we have done is sewn the waist with a French Seam. Be sure to leave an opening so that you can insert the elastic.
From the inside of the dress, sew the elastic opening closed.
The inside of our dress looks just as lovely as the outside. By attaching the elastic in this manner, if for some reason you need to remove the elastic and insert a new piece, it can easily be done by just opening the seam a little on the right side of the dress.
The final steps in finishing our dress will be to add the buttons and buttonholes to the bodice and finish the hem. I will be adding a ruffle to the hem of my dress that will coordinate with the ruffles that were added to the collar and sleeves.
We will talk about adding a bias trim to the hem of the skirt as well.
Be sure to check out the video portion where I talk about an easy way to apply buttons, interfacing and more!
So, we are almost finished! I can’t wait to wear my new dress. I hope you are having success with your dress as well. I look forward to seeing your finished dresses on the Clara Dress Flickr page. https://www.flickr.com/groups/sn_sewalong2/