Thank you for joining in to the Robson Coat Sew Along. I’ve gotten many comments asking if it’s too late to join in and no it is not! We’ve got plenty of time, so I do hope all those thinking about it will join in. You can always catch up later, and some folks don’t finish in the weeks that we have set out but more at their leisure. I will monitor the boards for later comers for anyone needing assistance or having questions. So, please join in! This post is all about sleeves, a slight jog from the schedule but important.
Now let’s get to Rhonda. She has extra tips and techniques planned for you and the Robson coat
The Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Sew Along Week 1
Before we get started with our coats, I would like to talk about the sleeve. There is not a lot of ease in the sleeve cap of this pattern which results in a rather flat look at the shoulder. For some it may pose a problem in that it will not give your arm the room that you need for the coat to fit well and the garment will pull.
Adjusting the sleeve is quite easy when you know what to do. Begin by cutting out the sleeve pattern. The sleeve for the Robson Trench is a 2-piece sleeve. Please don’t allow this to intimidate you. The sleeve is very easy to sew together, just be sure to mark all of the notches.
Draw in the seam allowance on the back seams of the sleeve patterns. I have only drawn in the seam allowance to the notches.
Cut the top of the sleeve cap away from the lower portion of the sleeve. Take a piece of paper, draw in a vertical line. Match that vertical line to the grainline in the pattern and tape the paper to the pattern piece. Draw a line 1″ above the pattern. We could add a little extra ease, but 1″ should be plenty.
Now take the sleeve cap and match the remaining portion of the grainline to the vertical line and also match the cut edge of the cap to the line that was drawn in 1″ up from the lower portion of the sleeve. Tape in place.
Because we moved the cap, the seam lines will no longer match. Blend the seam lines together as I have shown in the picture below. A little will come off of the cap and a little will be added to the lower portion of the sleeve.
If you would like, you may tape a small piece of paper into the seam allowance area. The adjustment is complete.
As for sewing the sleeve into the garment, there are a few schools of thought on the subject. Rather than explain the different methods, I am going to show you how I sew in my sleeves. I was taught by an old German tailor who was quite particular. It works, and I’m happy with the method, so I’ll pass it on to you.
Begin by sewing the sleeve together. Then sew 2 rows of gathering stitches into the cap of the sleeve, from the front notches to the back notches. I sew the first row about 1/4″ away from the edge of the sleeve cap and the other just inside the 5/8″ mark. I prefer to not take the stitches out, so that’s why I sew the second line just inside my seamline.
Before I match the sleeve to the armhole, I draw up my gathering stitches and begin to form the head of the sleeve. Notice that the fullness is being directed to the edge of the cap. Be sure to pull on the bobbin stitches and not the top stitches.
Check out the video for more quick tips.
In our next post, we will talk about
- Sewing princess line seams
- Attaching the seam binding
We will have another special post dedicated to sewing the pockets.