The Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Sew Along/Constructing The Pockets
There is a trick to doing inseam pockets and it’s a simple one, be precise! It would be nice if there was a magic trick, but sadly, there isn’t. Be sure to mark all notches!!!!!
Begin by sewing the flaps together with a 5/8″ seam allowance. Remember, all seam allowances are 5/8″ unless otherwise noted.
Once sewn, trim the seam allowance. As you can see, I trimmed mine fairly close. Just be careful to not trim the seam allowance so close that it will pull apart when turned. The instructions say to clip the curve, I do not. If the seam is trimmed closely as I have done, it is not necessary to clip into the curve.
Once the flap has been sewn, turn the flap to the right side and top stitch around the flap. Find the notches on the front panel of the coat and match the flap to the notches. The flap should sit right in between the notches. Baste in place.
Now this is where being precise will pay off. On the pocket, mark the 5/8″ seam allowance from the top and bottom edge of the pocket. You can see the white hash marks on my pocket piece below. Sew from the top 5/8′ mark to the bottom 5/8″ mark with a 5/8″ seam allowance.
This is the next area where you will need to be very precise. At this point, you will sew the princess line seam. Sew from the bottom of the coat to the first notch of the pocket opening. Be sure to line up the pockets perfectly so that the pocket does not get caught in the seam. Cut your threads and then sew from the top notch in the pocket opening to the top of the princess line seam. The princess line seam has now been sewn and you will have an opening in your pocket as you see below. At this point the pocket has not been sewn closed.
Once the flap has been top stitched, you can now sew the pocket together. Sew from the 5/8″ mark around to the other 5/8″ mark. The seam allowance on the coat at the top and bottom of the pocket will need to be clipped.
This next step is my favorite. I absolutely love this little touch! Cut a 6″ strip of bias tape.Fold it in half and stitch along the edge. Stitch it to the pocket and then baste it to the front edge of the jacket. Your pocket will now beautifully stay in place.
The final step to the pocket construction is to stitch down the flaps. We don’t want our flaps to be flapping in the wind!!! Stitch directly into the top stitching from the seam to the curve of the flap.
That’s it!!! You now have beautiful pockets! I think the pockets are the most difficult step in constructing this coat. The rest will be a breeze!
So good luck with your pocket construction. Just remember to be very precise about marking notches and seam allowance and I think you will be fine.
In our next post, we will add the collar, the flaps and the tabs.