The Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Sew Along Week 3
At this point, our Robson Trench Coats are really beginning to take shape. I’m loving my new coat more and more, by the minute, and I can’t wait to wear it!
Once the pockets have been attached, sew the center back panel to the side panel and bind the seams as we did the other seams.
The instructions tell you to sew the shoulder seam and bind them. As I thought about it, I realized that this is an unnecessary step. Binding the seam does create some bulk, so rather than sew the seam towards the inside of the coat, sew it to the outside as I have done. The flaps are going to cover the seam and we will not have the added bulk of the seam binding.
When you lay the under collar over the top collar, you will notice that the under collar is a little smaller than the top collar. This is NOT a mistake and please do not trim the top collar to match the under collar. Pin the 2 collars together and ease in the fullness.
Now turn the collar to the right side. The top collar will actually roll a little toward the back. This is just as it should be. Once the collar has been sewn to the jacket, the seam of the collar will not be able to roll towards the top of the collar. Set the collar aside for now.
Pin the collar to the neckline and baste in place. The collar should match to the edge of the front flap. As you can see, my front flap is laying very nicely against my coat. If your flap buckles or sits away from the coat, then you have probably stretched the flap. Be careful to not stretch the flap while sewing.
Turn the tab to the right side. Use a point turner to get the points nice and sharp. Please do not push your scissors into the points as you will risk punching a hole in the corners and then you’ll need to recut the tabs. This is advice from someone who has done exactly what I’m telling you not to do:)Top stitch the tabs.
Now place the tabs on the shoulder seam of the coat. Be sure to line the point up exactly with the shoulder seam.
The tabs have been basted in place. The collar and flaps are in place.
Please watch the video below for more details on the collar and belt loops.
Our next step will be to attach our sleeves. Then we will attach the facings, hem the coat and sleeves and sew in our buttonholes. We’re almost there!!!
Until next time,