Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

The Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Sew Along Week 3

At this point, our Robson Trench Coats are really beginning to take shape. I’m loving my new coat more and more, by the minute, and I can’t wait to wear it!

Once the pockets have been attached, sew the center back panel to the side panel and bind the seams as we did the other seams.

The instructions tell you to sew the shoulder seam and bind them. As I thought about it, I realized that this is an unnecessary step. Binding the seam does create some bulk, so rather than sew the seam towards the inside of the coat, sew it to the outside as I have done. The flaps are going to cover the seam and we will not have the added bulk of the seam binding.photo 1a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

The inside will look beautiful.photo 2a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

One more step to take to reduce bulk in the seam is to clip the edges as I have done. Now we can put the coat aside while we work on the flaps and the collar.photo 3a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

When you lay the under collar over the top collar, you will notice that the under collar is a little smaller than the top collar. This is NOT a mistake and please do not trim the top collar to match the under collar. Pin the 2 collars together and ease in the fullness.photo 4a1 Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

You can see that there will be some fullness to the top collar. This is fine.photo 5a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Trim the collar prior to turning.photo 6a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Once the collar has been trimmed, push the seam allowance toward the under collar and edge stitch. The edge stitching will be along the edge of the under collar.photo 7a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Now turn the collar to the right side. The top collar will actually roll a little toward the back. This is just as it should be. Once the collar has been sewn to the jacket, the seam of the collar will not be able to roll towards the top of the collar. Set the collar aside for now.photo 8a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Sew the front flaps to the back flap. As you can see, I have trimmed my shoulder seam allowances just as I did the shoulder seams on the coat. This will help to reduce bulk at the shoulder seam.photo 9a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Sew the top flaps to the bottom flaps and trim the seam allowances.photo 101 Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Turn the flaps to the ride side and press. Once pressed, top stitch the collar as well as the flaps.photo 11a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Pin the flaps to the coat. Baste in place around the armhole and the neckline. If you look closely, there is a notch at the neckline where the flap should meet.photo 12a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Pin the collar to the neckline and baste in place. The collar should match to the edge of the front flap. As you can see, my front flap is laying very nicely against my coat. If your flap buckles or sits away from the coat, then you have probably stretched the flap. Be careful to not stretch the flap while sewing.photo 13a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

The final step to the flaps and collar is to add the tabs. Simply fold the shoulder tabs in half and stitch with a 5/8″ seam allowance.photo 14a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Trim the seam allowance as you see below.photo 15a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Turn the tab to the right side. Use a point turner to get the points nice and sharp. Please do not push your scissors into the points as you will risk punching a hole in the corners and then you’ll need to recut the tabs. This is advice from someone who has done exactly what I’m telling you not to do:)photo 16a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3Top stitch the tabs.photo 17a Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Now place the tabs on the shoulder seam of the coat. Be sure to line the point up exactly with the shoulder seam.

The tabs have been basted in place. The collar and flaps are in place.

Please watch the video below for more details on the collar and belt loops.Screen Shot 2014 12 22 at 8.22.25 AM Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

Our next step will be to attach our sleeves. Then we will attach the facings, hem the coat and sleeves and sew in our buttonholes. We’re almost there!!!

Until next time,

Sew On!!!

Rhonda

www.sewbussted.com

 

 Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat Week 3

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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