Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

Thanks for joining week 2 of the Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along. We’re now moving into the construction phase of the sew along. But, there is still time to join in at any time of the sew along. Be sure to post pics on our Flickr page. Decades of Style would love to see what you are making as would we! Leave comments on the blog and Rhonda or myself will answer. So, take it away Rhonda!

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

The Decades of Style Arches Skirt is the perfect pattern for taking your sewing skills to a little higher level. In recent years, especially with knits becoming the mainstay of our wardrobes, underlining has become somewhat a thing of the past. But here’s the catch, once you’ve underlined a garment, there’s no going back! The garment will hang and wear beautifully.

Typically, a garment that has been underlined will only need a little steaming before it is worn again. The wool crepe skirt that is in the magazine was underlined with cotton batiste and the cotton that I have chosen for the sew along will also be underlined with the same fine weight of cotton batiste. As I said in our last post, do not use muslin or quilting cotton as you will not achieve the desired outcome.

Once you have purchased your cotton batiste, wash, dry and iron it prior to cutting. Cut the batiste just as you did your fashion fabric. Lay the batiste over the cut fashion fabric pieces and once again, lightly steam the 2 fabrics together. Pin the fabrics together and then hand baste the batiste to your fashion fabric. Be sure to hand baste the 2 together as the tension on your machine may be a little tight. We want the stitches to be firm, but not too tight.

I do my basting stitches just inside the seam allowance so that there will be no need to remove them once the skirt has been sewn together. Once you have basted the batiste to all of your garment pieces, lay the pattern pieces back over the batiste and mark all dots and cross marks with tailor tacks. It is imperative that you are very diligent about the markings on this skirt.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

After the videos were done for the sew along, I found this great piece of piping and knew that it would be the perfect accent for the arch in my skirt. Adding piping is really quite simple to do.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

The seam allowance on the arches skirt is 5/8″. Simply lay the piping on the 5/8″ line and sew in place. Take note that I stopped sewing the piping at the cross mark and then left just about a 1″ tail.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

Press back the seam allowances on the 2 pleat panels of the skirt and then lay them over the center panel. Take note that the left front panel will need to be trimmed.

Begin with the left front panel. Lay it over the center panel and pin in place. Now, attach the pleat panel to the center panel by top stitching the pleat panel to the center panel. The top stitching will end at the cross mark. Repeat with the right pleat panel.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

In order to have a clean finish, I simply turned back my piping at the cross mark and then finished my top stitching just below the piping. The end of the piping is then hidden inside the top stitching.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

In the picture below, you can see where I have pinned my pleat panel to the center panel and my final pin is just below the piping that has been turned back.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

The piping is in place and the point of the arch is perfect. Since the 2 pleat panels are laid over the center panel and top stitched in place, the point of the arch will always be perfect.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

Now lay the pleat panels over the side front panels and top stitch them in place. After all of the panels have been top stitched together, sew the pleat seams. The front of the skirt is now complete.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

 The piping adds just the right amount to interest to the arched shaping.

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

The next step will be to sew the zipper into the center back seam and sew in the back skirt darts. Once that has been completed, sew the front skirt to the back skirt. At this point, try the skirt on and make any necessary fit adjustments.

https://youtu.be/vxt24nuS6dY

In our next post we will talk about making the waistband and adding a special insert that will give you a waistband that will always hold its shape. We will also sew in the hooks and I will show you how to do a lovely stitched edge around the hooks.

So until then, happy basting!!!!

Rhonda Buss

www.sewbussted.com

 Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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4 Responses to Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along Week 2: Construction, Underlining and Top Stitching

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  3. Traci says:

    This is my first Sew Along.. I am loving it!!! I just need a clarification… once the underlining and the fashion fabric are married .. you treat as one fabric ?? So when I put in the dart.. I am basting and sewing through both fabrics at same time??

    • Jill says:

      HI Tracy,

      You will do the darts with fabric and undelining fabric as one. So, yes you will sew through both fabrics. That’s why it’s important to pick a relatively lightweight underlining fabric.