Today’s post is a special edition for waistband construction and the use of buckrum in garment construction. Also, please note that the You-tube video has a grey screen, but the video portion is there, just click to play. We hope you are enjoying the Decades of Style Sew Along! Now let’s have Rhonda get to it.
In today’s modern world of dressing, we seem to be getting more and more away from a traditional waistband. But a waistband should not go the way of the dinosaurs!!! A waistband offers lots of design possibilities as well as a foundation for a belt that can give the illusion of a tiny waist. Notice, I did say illusion!!!
In the accompanying video, I tell a story about a skirt that I had the opportunity to purchase when I was in high school. Believe it or not, it was an actual Yves St. Laurent wrap skirt. The wool was the most beautiful wool I had ever seen and the skirt was impeccably crafted.
It was that skirt that inspired me to take my sewing to a level that prior to that, I didn’t know existed. What intrigued me the most was the construction of the waistband. It had a hard substance inside that no matter what I did with the skirt, the waistband held its shape.
What was inside was something called waistband buckrum, not to be confused with ban roll. At the time, I was able to purchase waistband buckrum from my local fabric store. Sadly, that is no longer the case. But if you do a search for waistband buckrum, you will find a source for it on Etsy.
When I cut my waistbands, I always like to cut them on the selvage edge of the fabric. The selvage is the most stable part of the fabric and by cutting the waistband on this edge, you will be able to ensure that the waistband will hold its shape.
Since I am using the waistband buckrum inside the waistband, I did not interface my waistband, but I did add a layer of batiste, just as I did to the body of the skirt.
Once I have inserted the buckrum, the waistband is folded over and stitched in the ditch between the waistband the the skirt. As you can see, the stitches are very difficult to see.
Inside, the waistband has a finished edge thanks to the selvage edge and there is a stitching line that helps to ensure that the waist will not stretch out of shape with wearing.
For my cotton skirt, I cut the waistband on the selvage edge, but I added a layer of fusible knit rather than the cotton batiste. This gave my cotton just a little more body. Once the waistband is finished, I will go back and trim off the eyelashes from the edge of the fabric.
Waistband buckrum comes in various widths. I like the 1 1/4″ width. Once the waistband has been sewn to the skirt, simply lay the buckrum along the stitching line and stitch to the seam allowance.
The buckrum will be stitched from one end of the waistband to the other.
To finish the ends, simply fold the waistband over and stitch the end. Clip the edge prior to turning.
Fold the edge under on a 45 degree angle on the back side so that the selvage will not interfere with the zipper.
The same will be done on the opposite end.
Take note that while I was stitching the waistband, once I came to the extension end, I simply turned and took 1 stitch in and then stitched to the end of the extension. Other than the stitches that you see on the extension, the stitches that are in the ditch of the waistband are virtually impossible to see.
Not only was the waistband finished beautifully on that Yves St. Laurent skirt, the hooks were as well.
To stitch a hook in this manner, I begin by tying a knot that I hide underneath my hook.
I then come through the hole in the hook and form a figure 8 with my thread. I then insert my needle into the back of the top loop of the figure 8.
Once the first stitch is established, insert the needle, form a loop,
and then insert the needle into the loop.
Continue all the way around the hook and pull tight.
Your finished hook will be lovely and even better, you won’t have to worry about the hook threads unraveling.
In our next post, we will talk about how to create a lining for the Arches skirt. It takes just a little extra time, but it is time well spent!
Additionally, the video says week 4 but it is in fact for week 3. (It’s Monday! )The video team will make that correction, until then please take a look for more tips from Rhonda.