Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit – Simplicity 1104 Continues

Good morning!

I am still working on Simplicity 1104. I have made up my muslin and wanted to show you how I look at the wrinkles and determine where I need to address fit issues.

MMM SN Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit   Simplicity 1104 Continues

I am on my way to making this gem. You can read from the beginning here.

11403164 10152911178406951 6500824236647539291 n Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit   Simplicity 1104 ContinuesHere is a full view of my muslin.

full 1104 474x1024 Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit   Simplicity 1104 ContinuesHere is a close up of my problem area.

marked wrinkles Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit   Simplicity 1104 ContinuesAnd more specifically…

close up 1104 Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit   Simplicity 1104 ContinuesAnd, here is the back. I should have ironed the muslin, but you can still see the wrinkles that call out to a fit issue rather than a “I forgot to iron” issue.

back side wrinkles  Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit   Simplicity 1104 ContinuesI cut out a size 8 and if I cut out a size 6 I would have had to do more alterations because the bust would have been too small as would the waist, hips etc. But, what these wrinkles are telling me is that I need to do a narrow chest adjustment and a back adjustment as well. The shoulders are a little long too. These are common alterations for me. My upper torso is more like a petite sizing but my bottom portions are more “regular” sized (Pear!).

My favorite fit book of the moment is Joi Mahon’s Create The Perfect Fit. One of her tips  is to try contouring the body in place of fitting if possible. Contouring the body is a way to camouflage “unevenness in the body by padding areas that do not match on the other side”. Narrow shoulders can be broaden with shoulder pads, small busts can be made bigger with padded bras and so on.

Even with a narrow chest some padding can be used (especially in jackets) to fill out that area. However, in the case of this pattern the best solution is an actual adjustment to the paper pattern. Now, on to the alterations!

What are  your fit issues? Do you alter the pattern or have you tried contouring your body to fit the pattern? Do you know your body type?

Let me know!

head shot200 Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit   Simplicity 1104 Continues

 

 Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit   Simplicity 1104 Continues

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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5 Responses to Reading Wrinkles To Determine Fit – Simplicity 1104 Continues

  1. Pingback: Me Made Monday: Finished Simplicity 1104- A Review | Sew News

  2. Tricia says:

    I love it Jill! Thanks! I know this is your living but I still appreciate your work. I will be getting the Mahon book. Glad you made the blouse! It is hot on you :)

    • Jill says:

      Oh I haven’t made it yet! I’m just working on the muslin. But, my next step is to made the fitting adjustments to the pattern and then make the real deal. I’ll be posting it next week.

      I think you’ll really love Mahon’s book.

  3. Paula Y. says:

    Tried to make some Capri pants. They fit and look fine if I stand still, but as I walk, they creep up (in the thigh area) and are very uncomfortable. I can’t figure out any pattern adjustment. (Size 20)

  4. Maggi S says:

    I have a sway back and very large hips. So fitting anything at the waist and down is brutal. I have to fit the largest area (hips) and always have to wear a belt that ends up with 3-4 inches of fabric bunched up at the small of my back under the belt.