I am still working on Simplicity 1104. I have made up my muslin and wanted to show you how I look at the wrinkles and determine where I need to address fit issues.
I am on my way to making this gem. You can read from the beginning here.
I cut out a size 8 and if I cut out a size 6 I would have had to do more alterations because the bust would have been too small as would the waist, hips etc. But, what these wrinkles are telling me is that I need to do a narrow chest adjustment and a back adjustment as well. The shoulders are a little long too. These are common alterations for me. My upper torso is more like a petite sizing but my bottom portions are more “regular” sized (Pear!).
My favorite fit book of the moment is Joi Mahon’s Create The Perfect Fit. One of her tips is to try contouring the body in place of fitting if possible. Contouring the body is a way to camouflage “unevenness in the body by padding areas that do not match on the other side”. Narrow shoulders can be broaden with shoulder pads, small busts can be made bigger with padded bras and so on.
Even with a narrow chest some padding can be used (especially in jackets) to fill out that area. However, in the case of this pattern the best solution is an actual adjustment to the paper pattern. Now, on to the alterations!
What are your fit issues? Do you alter the pattern or have you tried contouring your body to fit the pattern? Do you know your body type?
Let me know!