The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

We are moving along on the Upline Jacket from Sewn Square One. This jacket will be a great addition to your fall and winter wardrobe. If you haven’t started yet, there is still time to join in. Purchase your pattern now and review last week’s blog post for more on the pattern and prep.

I’d also like to mention that there are two different pattern looks to the Upline Jacket. One shows the collar unzipped and the other is zipped but rolled down. The editorial image has the collar zipped but left up. It’s a fun feature of the jacket.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets 58936 14 popup1 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

upline jacket Lead The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

And, now let’s have Rhonda get started!

We all love pockets! A few years back, my husband bought a new ski jacket. What was he most excited about? The amount of pockets that were in the jacket. It really was incredible, I think the jacket must have had 10 or 12 pockets. Now, this part of the story is funny now, but not then. He actually thought he lost our passports! No, they were in a pocket that he had forgotten was there. Maybe one can have too many pockets!!!!

The Upline Jacket from Sewn Square One  has 2 front pockets. They are beautifully set into the curved princess line seams. They may seem a little daunting if you’ve never inserted a pocket, but trust me, just take it step by step and you’ll have beautiful pockets.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Before we get started on inserting the pockets, let’s go over a few pattern notes. As I said in our last post, I am making the longer, View 1 version, but I’ve decided to change it up a bit. I love the zipper application and I think it will be little more interesting to see the insertion during the sew along.

Take a look at the center front panel for View 3, the jacket that has the center front zipper. You’ll see that center front is marked and there’s only 1/4″ on the other side of center front.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Now, let’s take a look at the center front panel for View 1. An extension has been added to compensate for the buttons. If you want buttons, then you’re good to go, but if not, take a look at the next picture.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

In the picture below, I have laid the View 3 pattern piece over the View 1 pattern piece. You can see that the pattern pieces are exactly the same at the neckline except for the button extension on View 1. In order to adjust the View 1 pattern piece for the addition of the zipper, simply find center front and mark 1/4″ past center front and cut off the extra.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Now, let’s take a look at some of the other pattern pieces.

Below are the collars that have been provided for View 1,2 and View 3. The collars are not the same. So if you are making the change for the zipper, use the collar for View 3.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Pay close attention to the grainlines on the collars. Both the top and under collar are cut on the bias. This is what will give the lovely roll to the collar. PLEASE do not cut the collars on the straight of grain!

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

The sleeve cuff is also cut on the bias.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

The pocket patterns are also quite different. In the picture below, I have laid View 2 over View 1.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

And below, View 3 over View 2. Please pay close attention and make sure that you use the appropriate pocket pattern for the view that you would like to make.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

The pocket patterns for this jacket are rather shallow. For View 3, a shallow pocket is necessary. But, we all like putting our hands in our pockets and if you’re like me, they are a great place to loose lipstick and money icon wink The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Since I would like to be able to put my hand in the pocket, I decided to lengthen the pocket pattern. Simple enough to do, just lay the pattern on a piece of paper and lengthen the pattern 3″ as you see below. Be sure to transfer the grainline and the dots to the new pattern piece.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

My new pocket. Nice and deep.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

To begin the process of attaching the pockets to the front of the jacket, be sure to mark the dots that are on the pocket pattern and the corresponding dots that are on the front and side jacket pattern pieces. I make a small snip to mark where the 2 should meet.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

The pocket matched to the side panel.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

The seam allowances for this pattern are 1/2″.  We will make 1 exception though. When sewing the pocket to the front and side panels, use a 1/4″ seam allowance. Sew from the top of the pocket to the bottom.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Once sewn, turn the pieces to the front side and edge stitch the pocket. Not only will this make for a nice finished edge, it also helps to keep the pocket from stretching due to us taking our hands in and out of our pockets.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

The pocket is now edge stitched from the top to the bottom.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Match the center front panel to the side panel and sew the 2 together. Stop the stitching at the dot that was marked and then start the stitching again at the other end.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Now that the seam has been stitched, lay the pocket open and press the seam open.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

With the pocket still open, top stitch the seam.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Now that the front seam has been top stitched, it’s time to sew the pocket closed. As you can see in the picture below, the seam doesn’t lay flat.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Simply clip the seam allowance and this will allow the pocket to lay flat.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Sew the pocket closed.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

 We now have a lovely pocket.

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

And the little sneak peek on the inside looks lovely too!

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

Now that our pockets have been inserted, we can begin sewing the jacket together.

*A note on my jacket. I have used cotton batiste to underline my jacket. The cotton batiste adds body to the fabric and makes it wear beautifully. A garment that is underlined will not wrinkle like one that has not been underlined. The pattern talks about underlining the pattern pieces, but using a lining fabric. We will be making a separate lining for our jackets. So if you would rather not underline your jacket, just ignore the underlining instructions in the pattern. If you would like to underline your fabric, be sure to buy a good quality cotton batiste. Please do not use quilting cotton or muslin. Cut the cotton just as you would the fashion fabric. Each piece of the cotton should be hand basted to the fashion fabric prior to sewing. If you would like to read a little more about underlining, you can see the underlining that we did during the Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along, HERE.

Good Luck with your pockets!

Until next time,

Sew On!

Rhonda Buss

www.sewbussted.com

 The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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3 Responses to The Sew News Upline Jacket Sew Along Week 2: Pattern Details & Pockets

  1. Rhonda Buss says:

    Hi Jinny,
    Most independent patterns do not include a layout for a napped fabric, which of course a corduroy is. As will all napped fabrics, just be sure to lay your pattern pieces out so that they are all going in the same direction. You will most likely need a little more yardage which is also typical of most garments cut from a napped fabric. One other aspect to keep in mind, when you brush your hand against the pile, be sure that you place your pattern pieces on the fabric so that the pile is being brushed down rather than up.
    As for the pockets, yes, you need to pocket pieces per side.
    Hope this helps, and be sure to ask if you have any other questions.

  2. Hi Sew News! We’re sponsoring a sew along group at our store, Paradise Sewing, in CA! The girls are so excited and they all have such different fabrics and are coming with so many ideas! Love it! We do have a few questions that have been raised and are not addressed in the blog. Corduroy fabric was discussed as a fabric possibility, however, the pattern layouts do not address the nap of the fabric issue! And the pockets, don’t we need two pocket pieces for each pocket? So far, sew fun!

    • Jill says:

      Oh my gosh! I’m so excited you are doing this sew along! Let me send your question to Rhonda along with your email. Can you please take photos or send me some social links? I would love to show others what you are doing! You can send me emails directly at jill.case@fwcommunity.com

      Thanks so much!