Week 3 already of the Sew News Upline Jacket from Sewn Square One patterns!
Remember, you can always join along on the sew along and can purchase the pattern at any time here. Check back here for important information, how-tos and updates. Plus, leave any comments and I or Rhonda will be sure to help.
Let’s get busy with week 3. This week is all about construction, buttons and buttonholes.
This is a big week in regards to our Upline Jackets, as we will basically have the entire coat sewn together. All except the zipper and the hems. Exciting!!!
Before we get started, I would like to clear up a few questions that you may have. When I initially talked about possible fabric selections, I said that a corduroy would make an excellent choice, and it would. The only problem is that there isn’t a layout included in the instructions for a napped fabric. When using a napped fabric, keep in mind that you want all of your pattern pieces to go in the same direction. Before laying out your pattern pieces, rub your hand along the straight grain of the fabric. In one direction, the fabric will brush up, in the other, it will brush down. You will want to lay your pieces out so that the nap is going down.
Next, take a look at the pocket pattern below. It says to cut 2 of the fashion fabric and 2 of the underlining fabric. What they are referring to is lining fabric. I have talked about the fact that I am underlining my jacket with cotton batiste. The underlining that I am referring to is not a lining fabric at all. The batiste is added to give body to the fashion fabric. I hope that clears up any questions, but please ask if you are at all confused, and I will do my best to help.
So now, lets’ get started sewing!
The Upline Jacket has 2-piece raglan sleeves. Notice that at the top of the sleeve, it is rounded. This is because the sleeve actually rounds over the shoulders. Please be sure to mark the notches on the sleeve so that you will be able to properly sew the 2 pieces together. Remember, the seam allowances on this pattern are 1/2″.
Sew the center seam of the sleeve together.
Once my center seam was sewn, I pressed the seam allowance open and topstitched on either side of the seam.
Sew the center back seam of the jacket together. I also pressed open the seam an topstitched on either side.
Now sew the side back panels to the center back.
If you’ll notice in the above picture, I did not topstitch on either side of the seam. Below you can see that I pressed the seam towards the center of the jacket and then just topstitched one side of the seam. If you will remember, we only topstitched 1 side of the front princess line seam.
Now that the back is together, we can attach the sleeves. Be sure to sew the front sleeve to the front panels and the back sleeve to the back!! Just match up your notches and you’ll be fine.
Once the sleeves have been sewn in, press the seam open and clip the curves.
Then topstitch on either side of the seam.
The basic body of our jacket is now together. But take note that we have not sewn our side seams together.
With the jacket that I made for the magazine, I took the fullness out of the back jacket as you see in the picture below. And I elected not to add the belt. If you are making the shorter jacket, you may want to consider making this change. For the shorter jacket, I like the closer fit. But for the longer version, I really like the fuller back.
For the back belt, rather than underline the belt, I interfaced the entire piece with a piece of woven cotton fusible interfacing. It gave my belt just the right amount of stability.
The seam is intended to be a 1/2″ seam allowance, but I decided that I wanted to make my belt just a bit wider, so rather than a 1/2″ seam allowance, I used a 1/4″ seam allowance. No trimming required with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Lay the belt out so that the seam is in the middle and press it open. Once the seam has been pressed open, stitch the end of the belt. Here I used a 1/2″ seam allowance. Once sewn, I then trimmed the seam allowance in half and clipped the corners.
Turn the belt to the right side and topstitch around the 3 sewn sides of the belt.
This is not a necessary step. I just love the look of bound buttonholes, so I decided to add bound buttonholes to my belt. As you can see, they were sewn on the center line of the belt.
My 2 belts are now finished and ready to be sewn into the coat.
To attach the belts, take a look at the pattern and you will see the belt placement markings. Align your belts to the markings on either side of the coat. Pin in place and then baste in place.
Once the belts have been basted in place, you can then sew the side seams of the jacket.
In the picture below you can see just how pretty the back of the jacket will be.
The lines of this coat are so beautiful! Once you have sewn the side seams, press the seam open and topstitch on either side.
In the above picture you can see how the pocket just melts into the seam.
Now for the lining and the facings.
Since we are making a separate lining, cut the lining just as you did the jacket, but eliminate the pocket patterns. No need for pockets in our lining
Sew the lining together just as you did the jacket. Press your seams, but do not topstitch.
Sew the facing together at the shoulder seams.
Once sewn, press under the edge 1/4″ as you see below.
Lay the facing on top of the lining. Take note that I did not interface the facings. Our lining is going to work as interfacing.
Baste the facing to the outer edge of the lining and then edge stitch the facing to the lining.
Leave about the last 3″ to 4″ of the facing free from the lining. We will need this to be free when we hem the coat.
Press under the top edge of the sleeve cuff and then attach it to the sleeve just as we did the front facing to the lining. Once the cuff has been sewn to the sleeve, you can then sew the side seam of the lining together.
Our next step will be to sew the top and under collars to the jacket and lining.
Take note that the top collar is just a little wider than the under collar. So pay close attention to your collars when attaching them to the coat.
The top collar is sewn to the lining.
Once the collar has been attached, clip the curves and then press the seam open. Once pressed, topstitch on either side of the seam.
Our lining is all ready to be inserted into the jacket.
Sew the under collar to the jacket.
Press the seams open and topstitch just as you did the under collar.
In the picture below, I have laid the lining on the inside of the coat.
You can now see that the top collar which was sewn to the lining lays over the under collar which was sewn to the jacket.
A peek inside. I’m so excited!!! This is going to be so pretty
At this point, there is very little left to do.
In our next post, we will;
1. Insert the center front zipper
2. Hem the coat and the lining
3. Attach the lining to the coat.
Can you believe it, just 3 more steps and we’ll be wearing our jackets!
Until next time,