We’ve made it! Just a few more steps and our Upline jackets will be ready to wear. And for me, the timing couldn’t be better as the weather has taken a turn, so a warmer jacket is just what I need!
In our last post, the jacket was basically together, but the next step was the big one, inserting the zipper!!! You’ll see that it’s not as terrifying as you might think.
I ordered a 36″ 8mm Riri zipper from Pacific Trimming. There was a little mix up with my zipper as I wanted a two-way separating zipper. As it turns out, the one-way separating zipper is fine since the jacket has a fairly full skirt.
To insert the zipper, begin by unzipping and separating the zipper. Lay the zipper along the center front of the jacket. Fold back the top edge as you see below. Pin in place and then baste the zipper to the jacket.
What is most important is that our seams match. Nothing screams homemade worse that mismatched seams. Now that one side of the zipper has been basted to the jacket, zip the other side on. Make a small clip on the opposite side of the zipper that will match the neckline seam.
Now, once again, unzip the zipper and then baste it to the opposite side of the jacket, making sure to match the clip to the neckline seam. When the zipper is zipped closed. you should have a perfectly matched zipper.
At this point, the zipper is only basted to the jacket, so to sew the zipper to the jacket, simply lay the lining with the attached facing over the zipper and match the center front of the lining and facing to the center front of the jacket.
Be sure to use a zipper foot and stitch close to the edge of the zipper. You will sew up one side of the jacket from the hem, around the top edge of the collar and down the other side of the jacket to the hem.
Clip the corners of the jacket at the top edge of the collar and turn right side out. Our next step in finishing the zipper will be to top stitch it, but we need to do a few other steps first.
The next step will be to attach the sleeve lining to the outer sleeve of the jacket. I begin with my lining laying inside the jacket sleeve.
I then slide my hand in between the sleeve lining and the jacket sleeve. I grab the 2 raw edges and them pull them up through the armhole on the inside of the jacket.
You can now stitch the sleeve lining to the sleeve of the jacket. As you can see below, the the sleeve lining and the jacket sleeve do not lay one inside the other at this point. If they did, you would not be able to get your arm inside the jacket once the 2 were sewn together. So just be careful and pay close attention to the sleeves and they should go together quite easily. Sew the hem of the sleeve to the lining with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Pull the sleeve back through the jacket and then top stitch the edge.
Our next step will be to secure the jacket neckline to the lining neckline.
Pull the lining up and expose the neckline seam of both the lining and the jacket.
Slip stitch the 2 neckline seams together.
Stitch from shoulder seam to shoulder seam.
I decided to put a 1 1/2″ hem in my jacket. If you will remember, we cut the lining exactly as we did the jacket, so we will now need to compensate for the extra length of the lining.
Simply cut 1 1/2″ off of the bottom of the lining fabric. Where the lining is caught in the center front seam, I simply clipped it away so that the lining would be free.
Turn the facing back against the jacket and stitch across 1 1/2″ from the hem.
Clip the corner and trim down the facing.
Turn the facing to the right side.
Turn the hem of the jacket up 1 1/2″ and stitch with a catch stitch.
Since I underlined my fabric, the stitches for the hem are only in the underlining which gives a completely invisible hem on the outside.
At this point we can turn up our hem lining and pin in place.
Slip stitch the lining to the jacket being careful not to catch the top side of the lining fabric.
The hem is ready to be pressed.
Now that the lining has been fully attached to the jacket, it’s time to top stitch around the zipper and the neckline. This is where the zipper gets just a little tricky as you want the front of the jacket to look just as nice….
as the back. Just take your time and you will be fine.
The final step in finishing the lining is to tack down the facing.
Simply pin it down and then tack the facing to the hem and lining. Be careful that your stitches don’t show through to the front side of the jacket.
The last step will be to sew the buttons to the back belt.
Now give the jacket a good steam and you are ready to go!
The jacket has a very sleek look from the front and a soft feminine look from the back.
I hope you have enjoyed making the Upline Jacket from Sewn Square One. Whether short or long, it’s a great addition to any wardrobe.
Until next time,