The Sew News Studio Kat Cosmo Convertible Bag Sew Along.
We’re now getting into the construction of the Cosmo Convertible bag. You will love this bag, it is so versatile. And, just as a reminder that even if you don’t start the sew along right now, you can always refer back to the posts here. And, now here’s Rhonda!
The pockets on the Studio Kat Cosmo Convertible bag are not only functional, they are what takes the bag from functional to eye catching. The bag offers a flapped pocket on the front with magnetic closures, and a zippered pocket on the back. Both may seem a little intimidating, but they are really quite easy to construct.
Before we get started with the pockets, let’s take a look at a couple of the pattern pieces. Once you cut out your pattern, pay close attention to the fact that the bag front and the side back pieces need to be attached. So, tape or pin pattern piece 8a to 8b, and tape or pin pattern piece 5a to 5b.
The lining pattern for the bag is also in 2 pieces and will need to be taped or pinned together prior to cutting the piece from your fashion fabric.
The front and back of this bag are interfaced with fusible fleece. Using the front pattern, cut 2 layers of fusible fleece. One layer will be fused to the front and the other layer will be fused to the back. For now, fuse 1 layer of the fusible fleece to the bag front.
Be careful to leave the corner free. It is VERY important that you trim the fleece from the corner. Mark 1/2″ as shown below.
Clip away the fusible fleece from both corners of the front bag. Once the corners are clipped, lay the front aside for now.
The first pocket that we will construct is the back pocket. The pattern calls for an 8″ or larger plastic zipper. When I made the bag that is featured in the magazine, I went by the instructions. For this bag, I had a wonderful metal 7″ zipper with a great zipper pull that I really wanted to use. The zipper worked perfectly. If you decide to use a metal zipper, it must be no more than 7″ and just be careful to evenly place the zipper in the middle of the pocket pieces to unsure that you have the 1/4″ seam allowance on either end.
To insert the zipper, sandwich it between the lower center back pattern piece and the pocket facing. Sew the 3 pieces together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Once sewn, press both pieces down.
Now take the upper center back section and the top pocket piece and sandwich the zipper between these 2 pieces and sew together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Press the top of the bag up and the pocket down to meet the pocket facing.
Prior to sewing the pocket together on the inside, top stitch along both sides of the zipper.
Now sew the bottom seam of the pocket together. The side seams will be sewn when the back side pieces are attached to the center back.
Sew the back side pieces to the center back section. If you would like, press the seams to the side and then top stitch in place.
Take the second piece of fusible interfacing and fuse it to the back. Be sure to trim the corners just as we did for the front.
Now that our back pocket has been inserted, it’s time to think about the front flap pocket. On the Studio Kat website, you can find a free downloadable pattern for a pieced pocket. If you have a striped fabric, or a pattern that would work well being pieced, download the pattern and play around with it to form an interesting flap for your pocket. You can find the pattern HERE.
Before we tackle the flap, we need to make the pocket. I used a fusible cotton to interface my pocket. Please do not skip the interfacing as your pocket will be too flimsy for the magnetic closures.
The pocket pattern includes perfectly set holes to mark your magnetic closure position. But, as you can see below, I initially wasn’t paying attention. So please check twice to be sure that you have correctly marked the snap position.
Once the snaps have been installed on the pocket, sew the lining to the pocket piece. Turn, press and edge stitch the pocket. Now stitch the pocket to the bag front. In the instructions, you will find specific measurements to help you correctly place the pocket piece on the bag.
I chose to use the free downloadable flap pattern for my bag. It gives the flap a little definition and keeps it from blending into the bag like the pocket does.
Baste the edging to the flap.
The inside of the flap was turned back, and stitched in place.
Before the lining is sewn to the flap, interface the lining and then attach the corresponding sides of the closures to the lining side of the flap.
Sew the lining to the flap, turn and trim the seam. At this point you may edge stitch your flap if you choose. I think the edge stitching gives the flap a little more of a polished look.
Now it’s time to attach the flap to the bag. Simply turn in the straight edge and then pin the flap to the bag. As you can see below, I butted the flap right up against the pocket edge.
Fold the flap down and give it a bit of a press and your pocket is finished. And I will add…..
Now wasn’t that easy?!!!!!
Before we set our project aside, let’s get the lining sewn together. Simply sew the side seams together to the dots on either side of the bottom. It’s important that the bottom is left open for turning once we attach the lining to the bag.
In our next post, we will sew the bag together, attach the top zipper, and attach all of the tabs that makes the bag go from a shoulder bag, to a crossbody bag, to a backpack.
If by chance you have not purchased a pattern, you can find it HERE.
Until next time,