Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

How are your coats coming along? You’ll start to see Rhonda’s coat taking shape and the colors are beautiful. The great thing about spring is that you’ll be able to wear your Pepernoot coat for a bit. So, let’s get started!

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Beginning a new project can seem a little intimidating at times. We want to do our best and have the outcome that we’ve seen in our mind. Now that we’ve talked in depth about the Pepernoot Coat pattern, and have it cut out, there’s nothing better to cast away the fears than just jumping in and getting started!

As we talked about in our last post, the front and back bodice both have darts. The bust dart on the front bodice is a good bit larger than the back dart.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

When marking a dart, I like to make small clips at the base of the dart. This will make it much easier to sew and give you a guide point for your first stitches. Simply fold the dart, matching up the 2 clips and sew the dart.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Most likely, your fabric will be a little heavier since this is a coat. Once sewn, clip the dart open and press flat.  Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

The darts on the back bodice are rather narrow, so rather than try to clip them open, just press them towards the center once they are sewn.

Because of the pattern on my fabric, and the thickness of my fabric, I did not press my center back seam to one side as you may notice in the instructions. I simply pressed the seam open. If you would like, the seam can be pressed to one side and then top stitched in place.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

If you will be piping the yoke seams, now is the time to do so. The seam allowance is 1/2″, so be sure to lay the stitched edge of the piping exactly on the seam line.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Stitch right along the edge of the piping.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Once the piping has been sewn to the front and back bodice, attach the yokes.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

If you are matching a pattern, please pay close attention as a mismatched pattern will be quite obvious.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Once the piping has been sewn on and the yokes are in place, we need to trim the cording from the seam edge. Simply grab the cord out of the piping, pull it out and trim away at least 1/2″ since our seam allowances are 1/2″.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Once I’ve trimmed the cord, I also like to clip the seam allowance of the cording on an angle at the seam edge. This will keep the seams from being quite as bulky.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Once all the trimming is complete, press the seam down.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Sew the back and front bodices to the skirt of the coat. I like to clip the edge of my darts to reduce bulk.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Once both sides of the dart have been clipped, the seam allowance will look like a “v”.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

I then pressed the waistline seam open.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

You can now see how the flowers have been matched. I had to make some decisions in regards to matching. Of course, the darts will take away a little of the shape of the flower. But in order to have the flowers match at the waist, I needed to mirror the flowers at center back.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Now that the skirts have been attached to the front and back bodices, sew the front to the back at the shoulder seams and side seams.

The coat is quickly coming together.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

The back of the coat.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

When matching patterns, sometimes decisions have to be made. I felt that it was more important for the pattern to match in the front than it was to have it matched down the side.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

At this point, let’s set the coat aside and work on the lining.

The darts are not sewn into the front and back bodice of the lining, rather they become tucks.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Once again, clip the bottom of the tucks.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Fold in half and match the 2 clipped points.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Fold the tucks towards the center as you see below and baste in place.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Do the same with the tucks on the back bodice lining.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

When looking at the back bodice lining pattern, you’ll see that there is an extra 1/2″ to the back bodice at center back. This has been included for a pleat that will give ease of movement when the coat is worn.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Sew the bodice together and stitch 1/2″ away from the edge. Then stitch again 1/2″ from the first seam. Look closely at the picture below and you’ll see pins about 1 1/2″ from the top and bottom of the bodice. Between these pins, change the tension to a basting stitch. Once the coat is finished we will take out the basting stitches and your pleat will be in place. Be sure to back stitch at the top and bottom of the basting stitches.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

The back skirt lining also includes the pleat. If you have not cut out your skirt, you may eliminate the pleat as it is not needed. If you have already cut the skirt lining, simply stitch in 1/2″ and this will eliminate the back pleat.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Sew the front and back bodices to the skirts and press the seam allowance down toward the hem.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Sew the shoulder and side seams of the lining together.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Now sew the shoulder seams of the back facing to the front facing. A note about interfacing. I did not interface my facings. The fabric is quite heavy and adding interfacing would have made the facing far too heavy. Typically, the front and back facings would be interfaced with an interfacing that is appropriate for the fabric.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Once the facing has been sewn to the lining, I like to then press the seam allowance towards the lining and edge stitch around the facings.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Sew the sleeves into the lining and the lining is complete.

The sleeves on the coat have tabs that are non-functioning, so no need for buttonholes. Simply sew the tabs together, add the piping if you wish. One note about the sleeve tabs, My suggestion would be to baste at least one sleeve together, then baste it into the coat and and try it on to determine the length of the sleeve and the appropriate placement of the sleeve tab for you. You may need to adjust the the placement of the tab so that it isn’t too close to the bottom of the sleeve.

The sleeves are 2-piece sleeves, so be very careful to mark all notches on the sleeve cap to ensure proper placement. You’ll find that there is not a lot of ease in the cap, so the sleeves go into the armhole quite easily.

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

Now that my lining and the shell of my coat are together, I placed the 2 together to see how they look. I’m quite pleased!

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

The coat is looking quite nice. As I said in our last post, I’ll never be lost in a crowd!

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

In our next post, we will attach the hood, the center front zipper and the pockets. So we’re almost there!!!

Now that we’ve started the project, if you’ve changed your mind and would like to make a coat for yourself, you can find the pattern HERE. The sew along posts will remain on the Sew News blog, so you can always come back whenever you get started or whenever you would like to refer back to them.

Until next time,

Sew On!

Rhonda Buss

www.sewbussted.com

 Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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2 Responses to Pepernoot Coat Sew Along: Week 3 Construction

  1. Lois Ann says:

    Your coat is lovely. I am finding myself feeling very awkward with garment sewing. I have only quilted in the last 20 years. However, I am having so much fun I am determined to succeed. Your step by step pictures are very helpful. This sew along has made me love garment making again. Thank you.

  2. Nancy Bonaguro says:

    Great job Rhonda! Your coat looks fabulous! I really like the fabric. You have, although, convinced me not to use a pattern that needs to be matched. Maybe I’ll just stick with a solid!!! Well, who knows maybe in the future. Thanks for all the good tips!