Thanks everyone for joining the Pepernoot Coat Sew Along. As photos come in of your final work I’ll create a slide show so that everyone can see all your hard work. Rhonda did an amazing job with her second coat and we all hope you had fun making one for yourself! Stay tuned for our next sew along the Magic Bias Dress!
In our last post, we attached our pockets. I think this is the most daunting of all the steps in the construction of the Pepernoot Coat. Then I had to go and make it doubly daunting by having to match a pattern!!! Thankfully, the pockets are on, and they look nice, so on to finishing the coat!
Our next step will be to construct the hood.
*Just a quick note about the hood. If you would like a true spring coat, the hood could be eliminated. Just finish the neckline and you’re good to go. Without the hood, a lovely scarf could be added for days when the winds are just a bit chilly. Even with the hood, a scarf can be worn inside the coat, but eliminating the hood would make for nice alternative.
The hood of the Pepernoot Coat is a 3-piece hood, 2 side pieces and a center piece. Begin by sewing the 2 sides to the center. You will need to clip the center section in order for it to mold around the curvature of the side sections. Repeat for the lining of the hood.
Once the 3 pieces have been sewn together, sew the lining of the hood to the outside of the hood. Most likely, the lining of your hood will be in the same fabric as the outer coat. In my case, I decided to line the hood in the black velvet that I used for the piping detail.
In order to turn the hood to the right side, you will need to clip the curved area that you see below.
Here you can see the clipped curve. Turn the hood to the right side and press the seam.
To attach the hood to the coat, begin by sewing the outer portion of the hood to the outer coat.
Then sew the lining of the hood to the lining of the coat.
Press the neckline seams open.
The hood is now in place.
The next step will be to sew the center front tab and insert the center front zipper.
Take note that there are 2 notches on the center front tab pattern piece. The notches are quite important as they will aid in the placement of the zipper.
Fold the center front tab in half and sew the 2 ends. Clip at the corner and turn to the right side.
Sew the center front tab to the coat. The tab will extend from the seam of the hood to the hem of the coat.
In order to assure alignment of the zipper, be sure to transfer the notches on the tab pattern to the zipper. Now place the zipper on the tab and stitch in place matching the notches. Tun back the top of the zipper so that it is out of the seam.
Look closely at the picture below and you will see that I have moved the zipper over from the edge of the seam. This was done so that once the facing has been sewn to the zipper and the zipper is completely enclosed, the teeth will be out of the way of the fabric and will easily zip closed.
Place the other side of the zipper along the left side of the coat. Note that there is no tab on this side. Once again, be sure to transfer the notches to the zipper tape. The notches will align with the neckline seam and the waistline seam.
Fold the hood and facing over the zipper and stitch the center front seams in place.
At the hem, stitch across the facing. Clip the corners and turn to the right side.
The zipper is in place and the teeth are free from the fabric.
I chose to use a 30″ zipper with this coat. As you can see in the above picture, there is plenty of room for a longer zipper. I also chose a zipper that can be unzipped from the bottom as well as the top. Being able to unzip the bottom of the zipper is a great feature as it can make it a little more comfortable when sitting.
We now need to secure the neckline seams since the outer hood and the lining of the hood were sewn separately to the neckline.
Pin the facing to the coat at the neckline. If your fabric is not too bulky, you can stitch the 2 together on the machine. In my case, the fabric is rather bulky, so I stitched the 2 together by hand.
Now move down to the waistline seams and stitch the lining to the outer coat between the side seams.
Turn the hem up and stitch in place.
As you can see below, the coat has been hemmed, and the lining has been attached except at the corners.
What I like to do is fold back the facing as you see below,
and then turn back the raw edge of the lining and pin in place. The edge of the lining and the facing are then stitched by hand.
Now that the lining is finished, hem the sleeves and sew the buttons
on the tabs.
Our lining is securely in place.
The coat from the back.
I chose to do the center of the hood in the black velvet. It would have been impossible to match the pattern, so I felt that the strip of velvet down the center was a better alternative.
And the coat from the front. All that’s needed now is a little pressing and it’s all set to go!
I hope you’ve enjoyed the sew along, and I hope you love your new Pepernoot coat. I’ve worn the first one I made so much that I’m about to wear it out!
Just a little note…
Be prepared for lots of compliments, even from strangers. Everywhere I go people comment on how much they like my coat. Doesn’t it make you feel great when someone notices something you’ve made?!!!
Remember, the sew along posts remain on the Sew News blog, so if you have not started your coat, you can always refer back to the posts. And if you have not yet purchased a pattern, you can find it HERE at Shop Sew It All.
Also be sure to pop over to Waffle Patterns. Yuki, the designer of Waffle Patterns has some lovely new designs that you just might like to check out.
Thanks so much for following along.
Until next time…