Not much longer and you should have a wonderful dress for spring and summer wearing. Rhonda will talk about color blocking. This dress looks marvelous using color blocking.
With all the color blocking possibilities and fabric choices, the Magic Bias Dress from Fashion In Harmony is one of the most versatile patterns I have ever come across. But like with everything, I tend to get a little board, so for the construction posts, I decided to try something a little different by developing an asymmetrical hemline and creating a tunic rather than a dress or a blouse.
To do this, I simply turned up the hem of the dress pattern and made it completely square across the bottom.
Here you see the pieces laid out. If you do decide to give it a try, just remember that the triangular shaped inset piece will also need to be shortened. Pictures of the tunic will be at the end of the post.
When constructing a bias garment, there are a few things to keep in mind.
As you know, the Magic Bias Dress is cut on the straight of grain. The front and back neckline as well as the armholes are on the bias and can easily stretch out.
The instructions talk about using a stay tape to secure the armholes, front and back necklines, as well as the shoulder seams. In all honesty, I did not use the tape to secure my seams. I stay stitched the neckline as well as the armholes and had no issues with either stretching.
To stay stitch, begin with the yoke piece. Stitch around the neckline. A small portion of the armhole is included in the yoke and will also need to be stay stitched. I am pointing to the area below.
When stitching, be extremely careful to not pull the fabric through the machine and stitch 1/4″ away from the edge.
Now stitch the back neckline as well as the armholes.
On many occasions, I have seen people pick up a bias garment by the shoulders to carry it to the machine. In order to keep the fabric from stretching, I actually ball my fabric together to carry it to the machine. This will eliminate stress on the seams.
Do not pin the garment in your lap. Pin with the garment laying on a table. The table will help to secure garment and keep is from stretching.
Begin by sewing the triangular inset piece to the side of the main body of the garment. The seam allowances on the straight of grain seams are 3/8″. Once the seam is sewn, press toward the main portion of the garment.
Now sew the yoke to the main body of the garment. Press the seam towards the main body of the garment.
Now bring the triangular inset piece over the the other side and sew to the yoke and the main body of the garment. The seam should meet perfectly at the armhole and form a point as you see below.
The next step will be to sew the shoulders of the dress.
Keep in mind that the shoulder seams are bias seams and the seam allowance is 1″.
If you are concerned about the shoulder seams stretching, use the pattern as your guide and cut a piece of twill tape the length of the shoulder seam.
Then lay the twill tape over the shoulder seam and stitch in place. Once the seam has been secured, trim the seam allowance down to 3/8″.
Just a little sneak peek at the asymmetrical hemline. I have a surprise up my sleeve, so be sure to pop back for our final post to see what I do.
And the tunic on the dress form.
The original dress was made with the petal sleeve that is provided in the pattern. This is a very soft and feminine sleeve that gently falls against the arm. Lovely to wear.
In our final post, I will finish the color blocked dress I did for our last post, and rather than the petal sleeve, I will use the free flutter sleeve pattern that is available on the Fashion In Harmony website. You can find the pattern HERE.
The neckline of the dress is finished with a French piping method. A lovely seam finish. Looks like piping, but so much easier to do. I will also finish the armholes of the tunic with the French piping method as I think a sleeveless version will be nice for the tunic.
The petal sleeve pattern will be used for the red and orange color blocked dress, so you will have the opportunity to see a number of sleeve finishes.
Until next time…