Welcome back! Today is Day 3 of our Gallery Tunic Sew-Along. Last week we went over fabric options, then we made a back pleat, put in a placket and stitched up the shoulder seams. Today we’ll be putting the collar together and setting it in. Let’s get started!
Prepare the Collar
Sew a row of basting stitches 1/2” from the raw edge of the neckline (the notched edge) of the collar. Press the seam allowance to the wrong side along the basting line, which will serve as a folding guide. If necessary, clip into the seam allowances along the curve as you press. After folding and pressing the neckline edge, trim just the folded edge’s seam allowance to 1/4” to reduce bulk in the collar when it’s finished.
With right sides together, align and pin the two collar pieces together. Then stitch the outside edge of the collar with a 1/2” seam, leaving only the neckline edge unsewn. Pivot at the corners and at the dots.
HINT: For better precision, you can mark the stitching line on the wrong side of your fabric.
HINT: When you reach a corner, pivot partway with needle down and take one stitch before pivoting again to sew the next side without breaking the stitching line. The single stitch you take before pivoting the second time will help produce a nice, sharply pointed corner when you turn the collar right-side out.
Trim the stitched seam allowances to 1/8” and clip the corners before turning the collar right-side out. Do not edgestitch the collar yet; you’ll have an opportunity to do this after attaching the collar to the tunic.
Turn the collar right-side out and use a chopstick or point presser to gently push out the corners. Press the collar, gently rolling the seam toward the under collar so it won’t show on the finished garment.
Attach the Collar
Pin the collar to the tunic’s neckline with right sides together, matching the ends of the under collar to the edges of the unsewn (raw) neckline. Match the notches on the collar with the tunic’s shoulder seams and center-back notch. Stitch the collar to the tunic with a 1/2” seam, moving the opposite folded collar edge out of the way temporarily and backstitching or lockstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.
HINT: It takes a little more time, but you might find it helpful to hand-baste the under collar before stitching it in place. The basting will hold the layers together more securely and allow you to focus on stitching (rather than removing pins) as you machine-stitch.
Check to be sure no pleats or puckers formed in the neckline seam and adjust, if necessary, by ripping out the seam around any puckers and re-sewing it. Then trim the neckline seam allowances to 1/8”-1/4” and press them toward the collar. Use a blindstitch or slipstitch to hand-sew the collar’s opposite folded edge to the neckline so it just covers the stitching at the neckline. If desired, edgestitch the circumference of the collar from the right side to finish it.
HINT: When edgestitching by machine, slip a scrap of tissue paper under the collar points to prevent the points from getting pushed down into the machine by the needle.
We’re almost there! Just a few more steps to go. I hope you’re enjoying this pattern. I know you’ll be delighted at the result.
Join us this Friday as we finish up the Gallery Tunic by making the sleeves and cuffs and stitching up the side seams!