Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper Insertion

We’re rounding the corner to the Clover Pant Sew Along.  Now in week 3, it’s all about construction. If you are late to the sew along,  purchase a pattern  at shopsewitall.com,  it’s easy to catch up! And click here for week 4, all about finishing.

PatternCover 5001 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper Insertion

Now, here’s Rhonda!

Last week we talked about preparing our pattern and making fit adjustments. Prior to cutting out your pants, it’s very important to pre-shrink your fabric, especially if you are using a cotton/stretch blend. Nothing would be worse than to get your pants made up, throw them in the washer and then have them come out of the washer a size too small. So please wash and dry your fabric prior to cutting.
The instructions provided in the Clover pant pattern are quite easy to follow. Be sure to follow all of the stay stitching instructions that are given.
There is a small dart in the back of the pants. To mark this dart, I simply make 2 small clips at the top of the dart,

photo 17 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionAnd I place a pin at the base of the dart.

photo 18 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionI flip the fabric back and reveal the pin mark on the inside and mark with a marking pen or pencil.

photo 19 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionTo sew, simply fold the dart in half and sew from the top of the dart to the point.

photo 20  Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionOnce the dart has been sewn, press the dart. The dart should be pressed toward the center back seam of the pant.

photo 21 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionOnce the darts are sewn, it’s time to attach the front pockets. The pockets are not necessary, so they can be eliminated if you choose, but I have found that even this small pocket comes in handy! There are 3 marking that are important for attaching the pocket, 2 circles and 1 notch.

photo 22 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionTo cut down on bulk in the front of my pants, I used my fashion fabric for one side of my pocket, and a light weight cotton batiste for the under layer.

photo 23 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionSew the fashion fabric to the yoke and the cotton to the pant.

photo 24 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionThe instructions say to sew the yokes together at the side seams and to sew the side seam of the pant. I like to be able to easily make adjustments, so rather than sew the yokes together, I sew the front yoke to the pant and the back yoke to the pants and then sew the side seam.

photo 25 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionOnce the yokes have been attached and the leg seams sewn, it’s time to insert the zipper. Begin by pressing the roll of the zipper flat. Do not leave the iron on the zipper too long or you’ll melt the teeth.

photo 26 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper Insertion

I do not use a special zipper foot for my invisible zippers and I never have a problem. I simple ride my foot on top of the teeth making sure that I follow the edge.

photo 27 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionYou will need to stop the stitching just before the end of the zipper. At this point, sew up the seam. Change to a zipper foot and stitch to the end of the stitching that you did for the zipper.

photo 28 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionIn order to secure the zipper, stitch on either side.

photo 29 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionMy zipper was longer than what I needed for the pants.

photo 30 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper InsertionSimply cut off the excess and cover the end of the zipper. Just be careful when stitching over the teeth.

photo 31 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper Insertion

Next week we will finish up the pants. We’ll sew on the yoke facing, finish seam edges, attach a hook and loop at the waist and hem the pants. This is the third pair I have made. The Clover pant has been a welcome addition to my wardrobe. I hope you will feel the same!

Check out the week 3 video here. 
Rhonda Buss
www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com

 

 Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper Insertion

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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2 Responses to Clover Pant Sew Along Week 3: Construction +Invisible Zipper Insertion

  1. ANN HOPPE says:

    I tried to by the papernoot coat pattern at Shopsewitall but it isn’t there.would like to do your sew along