Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

Back at the Ginger Jean Sew Along where we are continuing our construction phase of the Ginger Jean sew along. We’re almost finishing up. How are you jeans coming along? If you have any questions please leave them for Rhonda or myself. Now, let’s get going!

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

 Blue jeans began as the quintessentially American garment. Originally designed by Levi Strauss to meet the needs of a rugged garment for miners and cowboys. In the 1950′s, blue jeans were embraced by teenagers and a movement began. Quite simply, people across the world love their jeans.

It was those humble beginnings that gave us the sturdy seams that we love today, and now look upon as being decorative. A flat-felled seam is a must in a great pair of jeans. If you’ve never stitched one, you are in for a treat!

The first flat-felled seam that you will make on the Ginger Jeans is on the back hip yoke.

Begin by stitching the yoke to the back pant, wrong sides together. Note that the heavy decorative thread is on the yoke side.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

 Trim only the lower seam allowance in half. Be careful not to cut through the top seam allowance. Trust me, it can happen, I’ve done it!!!

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

Now press the seam down toward the bottom of the pant leg.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

Fold up the bottom edge of the seam allowance.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

And stitch down.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

The result is a beautifully finished seam.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

On the inside of the garment, the seam finish is smooth and the seam allowance can no longer rub against the body. One of the reasons that we find jeans so very comfortable to wear.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

The next step will be to attach the back pockets.

Dots have been provided for placement. Be sure to transfer the dots to the pant leg.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

A pattern has been provided for the interfacing needed for the top edge of the back pockets. Please do not skip this step.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

Once the pockets have been interfaced, mark a line 3/4″ down from the top edge. This will be the fold line. Fold down and press.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

Fold the bottom edge of the seam under and press.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

 Edge stitch across the top and then stitch again as you see below.

Press under the side and bottom edge of the pocket, 1/2″. Be careful to not press out the curve on the one side.

If you would like to add a decorative design to the pocket, now is the time to do so.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

 Pin the pocket to the back pant leg, matching it to the dots provided. If you would like, you can baste the pocket to the pant leg, but the pins really should hold it in place. Note that the curved edge of the back is toward the center back seam.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

Stitch around the edge of the pocket and then again as you see below. Angling the second stitching line at the top edge of the pocket will ensure that the fabric edge is hidden inside the stitching.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

 At this point, baste the back seam allowance and the legs seams together. Try them on for fit. You can easily make adjustments to the crotch and back seam at this point.

Once any adjustments have been made, take out the basting stitches and sew up the center back seam with a flat-felled seam.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

Sew the inner leg together with a flat-felled seam.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

The inner leg will be nice and smooth on the inside.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

 The side seam of the jeans cannot be sewn as a flat-felled seam. Simply sew the side seam together with right sides facing. If you do not have a serger to finish the seam, a zigzag seam finish will work quite well. Once the seam has been zigzagged, trim down the seam allowance.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

 On the outside of the jeans, edge stitch the side seam allowance from the waist to the lower end of the pocket. If you would like, you can do a bar tack at the end of the stitching. I simply back stitched the end of my seam.

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

At this point, our jeans are together! The front looks great,

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

And so does the back!

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

 Our final steps will be to make the belt loops, attach the waistband, make the buttonhole, attach the jean button, and finally hem the legs. Just a few more steps and it’s slip on time!!!

I don’t know about you, but I am now addicted to this pattern. I’ve purchased fabric for 3 more pair!

Good luck with your flat-felled seams.

 Until next time…

Sew On!

Rhonda Buss

sewbussted.com

Find the whole Ginger Jean series here!

Ginger Jean Week 1 Fabric Selection

Ginger Jean Week 2 Construction 

Ginger Jean Week 4 Finishing Details

 Ginger Jean Sew Along: Week 3 Construction + Flat Felled Seams

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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