Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

We are now on our way to week 2 of the sew along. I am a bit behind, I wanted to join in too! But, haven’t been able to sit down and cut my pattern  out yet. If you find that you are behind, rest assured that these tutorials will be here for you to access at any time. Let’s have Rhonda get to it!

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

The first cape I owned was made for me by my mother. It was floor length, and made in a cobalt blue faux fur. Like the Cape Super Express, it too had a hood. Not only was it a bold color, it was a big and sweeping design, and I felt like a million bucks when I wore it. So needless to say, a cape brings back some wonderful memories and I am excited about wearing my new capes!

If you would like to accent your cape as I did mine with a contrasting fabric, there are just a few points to keep in mind.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

The front of the cape pattern has 3 pieces, so the top of the cape is a separate pattern from the lower portion of the cape. The back has only 1 pattern piece, so if you would like to accent the top of the cape with a contrasting fabric, the back pattern will need to be cut apart.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

To do this, match the front pattern to the back and align the notches. Cut the top portion of the back pattern away from the lower portion. Notice that I added a slight curve to my line. Be sure to make a note on the pattern to add seam allowance to both the top and bottom pattern pieces!

Although the cape is quite roomy and offers a loose fit, it does have some shape. The back has darts at the neckline and the front has bust darts that radiate up from the seam and down on the lower section of the front cape.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Once I sew in my darts, I like to clip them open and press them flat.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Once all darts have been sewn, lay the pieces aside.

It is important to pay attention to the instructions as different seam allowances are used throughout the pattern.

I decided to use a denim for my cape, but it ended up being a “make it work” situation as I was a little short on fabric. In order to get the hood, I had to cut the pattern piece into a number of pieces. In order to make this look like it was intended, I then top stitched all of the seams. If you do decide to do something like this, just be sure to remember the seam allowance!

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

The center back seam allowance of the hood is 5/8″. Note that the lining is smaller than the outer hood as the outer hood includes a facing. The instructions call for the facing to be interfaced. I did not use interfacing in either of the capes. With the faux fur, I wanted the hood to be soft as it fell over the shoulders, and with the denim, I felt that it didn’t need it. So, just think about the look you are going for, and the type of fabric you are using so as to whether or not the facing should be interfaced.

The hood lining is sewn to the hood with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

          Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Once the lining has been sewn to the outer hood, stitch along the neckline of the hood with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Set the hood aside for now.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Sew the pocket facing to the pocket with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Once the pocket facing is sewn to the pocket, I like to edge stitch the seam. This will help to hold the seam in place.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

The instructions say to sew the pocket to the front and side front panels with a 5/8″ seam allowance. I prefer to sew the pocket to the panels with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Once sewn, I then edge stitch the seam allowance.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Once the pockets are in place, sew the center front to the side front with a 5/8″ seam allowance.

As you see in the picture below, the seam of the pocket will be away from the fold. Since I am top stitching my seams, I pressed the seam allowance open.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

I then top stitched the seam allowance on the center front panel only.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

To sew the pocket closed, clip the seam allowance on the side front panel, lay the pockets together and stitch around with a 5/8” seam alowance.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

There is a “v” shape in the lower side front panel of the cape. Stitch at this point with a 5/8″ seam allowance.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

And then clip just to the stitching line. Be careful not to clip through the stitching line.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Now sew the top of the cape to the lower sections with a 5/8″ seam allowance. Do not stitch between the notches. The area between the notches will be the arm slots.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

I am going to show you a different method for attaching the outer cape to the lining at the arm slots, so for now, press the seam allowance open.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Once the seam allowance has been pressed open, clip away the fullness of the “v” which I am pointing to below.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

Sew the back cape to the front. The side seams will be 5/8″ seam allowances.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

At this point, our capes are really taking shape!

A sneak peek at the lining I will be using for my cape. The hood is lined in a velvet as I thought it would be a nice contrast to the lining fabric.

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

In our next post, we will sew the lining together and attach the facings. The lining will then be attached to the cape at the arm slots. We’ll attach the hood and then sew the lining/facing to the neckline and front opening. Our final steps will be to add the buttonholes and hem the cape. It really lives up to its name, Cape Super Express!!!

Until next time…

Sew On!

Rhonda Buss

sewbussted.com

 Islander Cape Sew Along: Week 2 Construction

About Jill

I write for the Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery blogs. I love sewing, vintage and would love to get a comment from you!
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