As I’ve shared in the past, I prefer to buy a pattern that I know I’ll sew at least three times. The Linden Sweatshirt from Grainline Studio has been on my list for years. I bought the pattern over holiday break and purchased fabric for four hack versions (I’m a planner!), since I’m not keen on the hemband: a curved hem, high-low, peplum and a dress. I sewed a curved hem in striped french terry earlier this month to test the fit and was ready to tackle the dress version! Here are the basic steps for that process, which will work with any raglan pattern.
Working on the front pattern pieces, mark your natural waist. You can also use another top you like to find the right placement for the ruffled skirt. For my dress, I measured down from the center front upper edge 12″. Cut or fold the pattern along the line.
Use the side seams to match and then draw a matching line along the bodice back. Fold or cut the pattern along the line.
Cut out the bodice front and back, adding 5/8″ beyond the cut/folded edge for the seam allowance. Because I’d sewn the pattern before, I knew I’d want a closer fit. I took off about 1 1/2″ from the side seams, blending that into the armscye.
To determine the size of the skirt panels, measure the lower edge of the bodice front – this measurement should be similar to the bodice back. Multiply this measurement by 1.5 to determine the skirt panel width.
Measure down from the bodice cut edge to your desired skirt panel length. Add 1 1/2″ to account for the seam allowance and the hem. For my dress, the skirt panel measures 24″ long.
Cut two skirt panels and four pocket pieces. I used a basic pocket pattern piece from another garment.
Sew the sweatshirt following the provided instructions but do not sew the side seams/arm seam.
Gather the upper edge of the front skirt panel with 2 rows of gathering stitches. Pin it to the bodice front with wrong sides together and stitch it in place with a stretch stitch. Repeat for the back bodice. Remove the gathering stitches. TIP: I attached each skirt panel separately before sewing the side seams so it would be easier to take them in later if I need to. I did eventually add a little additional shaping through the bodice.
Attach the pockets about 5″ below the bodice/skirt seam. Sew up each side/arm seam, attach the sleeve bands and hem the skirt.
Done! Let’s make a zillion more!