Ready to sew up a fabulous blouse for spring? Grab the Ravenna Blouse paper pattern over here, then read on to learn how to insert an exposed zipper with designer Kimberly Payne. (Pssst! If you missed last week’s post, head over here for tips on sewing the blouse darts.)
Today I am going to be walking you through installing the exposed zipper onto the back of your top.
Installing an exposed zipper is not difficult at all, but it does require doing a few steps that are different from what you would normally do. Just follow along and I promise you will have a lovely installed zipper by the end.
Start by taking your two back pieces and placing them right side up. Line the interfacing up with the top edge of both the left and right back piece. Iron the interfacing in place.
Before stay stitching the zipper opening it is best to lay your zipper on top of your interfacing and mark where the zipper stop will sit.
Starting at the top ¾” in from the center back you will sew down until you have reached the mark from the previous step. Leave your needle down and pivot the fabric 90 degrees and sew off the fabric. Repeat with the other back piece.
With right sides together sew with 5/8” seam allowance from the zipper stay stitch to the bottom hem of the shirt.
Clip a horizontal line just below the stay stitching for the zipper. Make sure to clip all the way to the seam line but not through it.
Press the seam allowance open below the zipper opening. You can finish these seams individually with either a zig zag stitch or a serger.
Working from the right side of the fabric, bring the zipper seam allowance to the right side of the fabric and press.
Place the zipper right side up centered over the seam line on the right side of the fabric. Match the top of the zipper tape with the top edge of the fabric. Pin the zipper in place along both sides. When reaching the bottom edge of the zipper fold the zipper tape under ¼” and pin in place.
Edgestitch the zipper in place along the zipper teeth from the top to the bottom of the zipper tape. Make sure when reaching the zipper pull that you keep your needle down, lift your presser foot and move the zipper pull out of the way.
Trim the seam allowance under the zipper to ¼”, the key to this step is making sure the seam allowance doesn’t show outside the zipper tape.
Topstitch the zipper down along the outside of the zipper tape. I find it easiest to start from the top edge and go down and back up the other side in one long line. This line of stitch is going to not only secure the outside edge of the zipper but also the bottom of the zipper tape that you folded over in the previous step.
See that wasn’t too hard, now try to resist the urge to put an exposed zipper on everything.
Make sure to come back for my final sew along post where I will be walking you through the best way I like to attach the bias tape to the neckline.
Join us next week for week 3 of the sew along for pro tips on attaching bias tape.