The Darling Ranges Dress is such a lovely take on the shirtdress – and the pattern includes a blouse and shift dress (sans the skirt) too! Pattern designer Megan Nielsen joins us today to share her tips and techniques for installing the dress’s placket. (And if you missed week one and two, read here for tips on setting the sleeves and here for tips on inseam pockets!)
Today we are going to tackle the Darling Ranges dress neckline and placket. I know the placket may seem daunting – but I promise, if you take it slowly and carefully it will all make sense and work out beautifully!
I love this method for creating the placket and neckline together, as I think it results in a really neat and fluid line of sewing.
Alrightly, lets get started!
Stay stitch 1/4″ (0.6cm) along the edge of the neckline to prevent the neckline stretching during construction.
First things first – turn your iron on and get a ruler out. Attach fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric on both plackets.
With garment inside out (i.e. wrong side facing you), fold the placket front inwards along the line indicated on the pattern (about ½” / 1.3cm) and press.
Take your bias strip and fold it in half width ways, with wrong sides together. Press.
Alternately you may use premade bias tape.
Now (and this may seem counter-intuitive, but trust me, just go with it) turn the dress the right way round (i.e. right side of fabric facing you) and fold the placket toward the right side along the line indicated. Pin along the neckline.
Begin pinning the bias tape to the neckline with the raw edges of the bias facing lining up with the raw edge of the neckline - do so all the way around the neckline.
Trim the additional bias facing, so that the facing is very slightly shorter than the neckline edge as shown above. Sew ¼” (0.6cm) from the raw edge, starting at the front of the neckline around the back to the front on the other side. Sew through all 3 layers of fabric. As always, make sure that you backstitch at the beginning and end of sewing.
Clip the seam allowance along the back neckline.
Now fold the bias tape inside, towards the wrong side of the fabric encasing the raw edges, and pin all the way along the neckline. Fold the placket inwards along the line indicated on the pattern ( 1 ¼” / 3.2cm) and pin. Sew very close to the edge along the placket and neckline.
Press the neckline and placket. – Then take a deep breath, because now you’re done!
Thanks so much for joining our sew along. We’ve still got some copies of the pattern over at shopsewitall.com! In the meantime, the sew along posts will stay live on the blog as a reference. Don’t forget to share your makes with us on Facebook or Instagram!