Welcome back to week three of the Emerson Crop Pants sew along, the final installment – let’s get these pants done, friends!!! Today, we’re going to construct the waistband, which is, in my opinion, quite genius! With a flat front band and an elasticized back, the waistband provides style and comfort. Special thanks to Kelli of True Bias for creating such a lovely pattern and for partnering with us for the sew along. Take it away, Kelli!
Take one front waistband and sew each narrow side to the narrow sides of one back waistband, right sides touching and matching notches, to form a ring.
Trim seam allowances to about 1/4” to reduce bulk and press open. Repeat with other waistband pieces.
With right sides touching, pin the tops (unnotched edge) of each ring together, matching seams. Stitch. Trim seam allowance to about 1/4” to reduce bulk.
Press the seam allowance towards the inner waistband (the one without interfacing).
Understitch by stitching through the seam allowance and inner waistband about 1/8” from the seam. Although this is not a necessary step, it really helps keep the inner waistband front peaking out.
Fold the inner waistband towards the outer waistband, wrong sides touching. Match up the notches on the bottom edges of the waistband. Press the fold.
Keeping the waistband folded, pin the bottom of the waistband to the top edge of the shorts / pants with the right side of the outer waistband touching the right side of the shorts / pants. Match notches. Keep in mind that the front of the waistband is the one with the interfacing attached to it.
Starting at one large dot, stitch around the back of the shorts / pants until you reach the second dot. Leave the front part of the waistband unattached. Back stitch at both ends to secure.
Attach a safety pin to one side of your elastic (cut to specified length). Insert into the waistband at one dot, through the back part of the waistband, and out at the other dot. Be careful not to let the back end of the elastic slip into the waistband where you can’t access it. (I know this too well from experience.)
Adjust your elastic so that it starts and ends at each dot within the waistband. Pin securely in place.
Finish stitching the front section of the waistband to the shorts / pants, leaving in the pins that are holding the elastic in place.
Press the seam allowance down and away from the waistband to keep it out of the way. On the front of the waistband, stitch in the ditch through all layers where the back and front waistbands meet, catching the elastic inside of the waistband so that it’s secure. Backstitch a few times to make sure it is secure. If you do it carefully, you will not even be able to see the stitching as it will hide in the seam.
Finish the seam allowance of your waistband in your desired manner and press down.
Edgestich just below the waistband to keep the seam allowance down and flat. This is an optional step but it helps to keep things tidy on the inside of the garment.
Hem the shorts / pants by folding the bottom up (wrong sides touching) by 1/4” and pressing.
Fold up again by 1“ for the shorts or 2” for the pants. Press and pin. Edgestitch along the fold to finish the hem.
And you’re done! Tag your photos on Instagram with #emersoncroppants or #emersonshorts and tag @sewnews – we’d love to see what you’ve made! Still need the pattern? Grab it here!