Welcome to part one of our Cap Sleeve (Plus Size) Blouse Sew Along with Meg Healy from BurdaStyle.com!
This week we will introduce you to the blouse pattern and how you can “Sproutify” it to get your size’s pattern pieces directly printed on the fabric with custom print placement. Then Meg will cover the suitable fabrics, as well as the first sewing steps to create this lovely, waist-hugging blouse. Take it away Meg!
This pattern is a beautiful blouse for women who like to accentuate their waistline. The crossover bodice and tying bands define the midriff, while the extended shoulders and attached cap sleeves are wonderfully complementary and add visual balance to the pattern.
You can sew this blouse in Burda sizes 44-52, which corresponds to US sizes 14-22! Note: Since BurdaStyle is a European brand, although the sizing may correspond to US sizes 14-22 they run a little small due to the different ideals in Europe. So If you fit into the larger sizes of Burda’s standard chart, then you can certainly fit into the lower sizes of Burda’s plus size. Check out our size chart here with measurements.
You have a couple options when it comes to sewing up this blouse pattern, you can either download the digital pattern here with video and pick up fabric – or (our favorite way) is to order through Sprout . Simply select your size using your bust circumference as the base measurement, choose your fabric, and then customize it by uploading your own prints or using the Spoonflower database. The wrap style and waist tie bands offer a fabulous fit to this blouse so you don’t need to worry about alterations and adjustments. With the purchase of a Sprout pattern you’ll also receive the digital PDF pattern so you can sew it again and again!
As a special for this sew along, Sprout is offering 15% off the Cap Sleeve (Plus Size) Blouse using code SEWCAPSLV – one discounted blouse per customer.
Order and customize yours and make a truly one-of-a-kind piece!
When ordering through Sprout you don’t need to worry about yardage, but you will need to make some decisions as far as fabric goes. This pattern’s recommended materials are: Softly draping fabrics, with or without elastane and the blouse in the magazine was constructed using a crepe with widthwise stretch. If sewing it just from the PDF pattern be sure to pick up 1 3/4 yds – 1 7/8 yds of woven fabric of your desired weight.
For a more structured blouse go with a cotton sateen or even a canvas, then if you want it more flow then opt for a silky faille or even crepe de chine. You’ll also need to pick up some interfacing to stabilize the facings and that’s it – no zippers, buttons, snaps, or anything!
For the Sprout option you have the following fabrics to choose from:
Basic Cotton Ultra
Kona Cotton Ultra
Cotton Popline Ultra
Poly Crepe de Chine
Organic Cotton Sateen Ultra
Read more about the fabric options that can be created, it’s so much fun!
You can really have fun in the design tool selecting your prints and placements. My favorite way to customize this pattern is to use the co-ordinates option to get perfectly matching solids for my prints and use for the neck and tie bands.
All these examples feature our signature BurdaStyle prints, see them all here . You could even make every single section a different print and it will all come on the same piece of fabric!
The pattern will come printed on one piece of fabric and all you need to do is cut out the pattern pieces, and I suggest to cut out the piece names and then pin them to the pieces so you don’t forget.
Note: If you are using just the pattern PDF, then you will need to add seam allowance to the pattern pieces.
Step 1: Fuse interfacing to the wrong sides of the armhole facings. There will be four in total, two for each armhole.
Step 2: Mark your darts. If using the Sprout version, refer to the table of contents for printing out the pattern page with the dart legs and mark onto your pieces. There are notches along the sides of the pieces, just not the dart legs. I used a frixion pen and ruler to mark these.
Step 5: Sew the shoulder seams of the neck band pieces, right sides together, and press open. Also press the lower allowance to the wrong side. Pin right sides to wrong sides of bodice around the wrapped neck edge matching up the shoulder seams.
Step 6: Pin all the way from waistline to waistline on each front. Stitch together.
Step 7: Grade the neckband seam allowance to half its width.
Step 9: Press and pin all along the wrapped neckline.
If you want instructor help sewing together this blouse with an additional video tutorial, then you can register here!
Tune in next week where I’ll be going over the next steps in making this blouse, and don’t forget to use code SEWCAPSLV for 15% off on Sprout (good until June 30th 2018). Get yours here!
See you next week!