Welcome to week 2 of the Tea House Dress sew along! One of the most eye-catching features of this dress and blouse pattern is the amazing yoke. Perfectly framing the face, the yoke is a great place for color blocking and pattern play (like turning stripes) to accentuate the shaping and lines. In addition to being flat-out stunning, the yoke can be a bit tricky to stitch. Today, we’re joined by Sew House 7 designer Peggy Mead for her yoke assembly tips.
Now, we get to one of the fiddlier bits of the garment – the neck ease for the Front Yoke and Front Yoke Facings (piece B).
NOTE: If you are using a man-made fabric, this next step may not work well as the fabric may not shrink up as well as a natural fiber during the ironing/pressing. You may try only taking up about 1/8″ rather than the full 3/8″. If it’s not working and looks wrinkled, just skip this step and leave the neckline flat.
For this step, we’re sewing long running stitches (I used a 4.0mm) and leaving long tails. We will be gently gathering those stitches up, to make small gathers in the yoke and yoke facing pieces, as follows.
So – look how gathered that looks! But don’t fear. We are going to use steam to essentially press these gathers out entirely, before installing our interfacing.
First, we need to make sure we’ve gathered the right amount. We are gathering the front piece so the entire length of that front cut edge is 3/8″ shorter than the paper pattern piece, like so.
Using the point of your steam iron, gently press out these gathers. Use patience – they will come out. You don’t want any ripples or bumps.
Perfectly flat! This preparation, along with the interfacing, will assure the neckline looks gorgeous and lies flat.
Join us next week for more Tea House Dress sew along fun – we’re talking all things ties!