Today we’re finishing up our A-Frame sew along with a great hack for creating an elasticized back waist for your skirt, for added comfort and a higher waist look, proving once again that this dynamic garment pattern belongs in your pattern library. Read more about constructing this skirt here. And thanks so much for joining us, Taylor. Take it away!
I love a high-waisted skirt. There was a time in my life where the more fitted at the waist something was, the more I liked it. I liked being squeezed a bit around the natural waist. (This was, not coincidentally, the time in my life where I wore the most vintage clothing, which is notorious for waist-squeezing)
Something I often do with my high-waisted, waistband having skirts is to add a bit of elastic. Not enough to created a pronounced gather at the waistline, but just enough to give you that extra inch you might need while sitting for long periods of time or after an awesome meal.
The nice thing about this technique is it also adds some structure to the waistband without using interfacing.
Start with a slightly larger pattern size
If you’re making A-Frame V1 (the pencil skirt), you’ll want to follow the instructions for blending between two sizes and go one size up at the waistline only. If you like a more relaxed, less wiggly pencil skirt, you could go one straight size up. If your measurements are different than the pattern (aka, your waist is smaller than the pattern for the size that fits your hips) then lucky you, you don’t have to do a thing. In fact, this alteration came about as a way for me to work with patterns & even RTW skirts where I had this same problem.
If you’re making A-Frame V2 (the a-line), simply go a size up. Already cut out your size and don’t fancy tracing/printing/cutting again? Just add 1/4″ to the waistband and skirt side seams as you cut your fabric. Definitely works in a pinch.
The waistband itself is 1 1/8″ tall. For this tutorial, you’ll want to use 3/4″ non-roll waistband elastic. This gives the elastic a bit of breathing room in your waistband. Some of the difference is eaten up by the thickness of the elastic as well. And it makes it easier to sew down your waistband without elastic getting in the way (and for this tutorial, you don’t want to sew down your elastic as you sew the waistband).
Skip the interfacing. Since there will be a nice piece of elastic in that waistband, it wont collapse. You may want to fuse a small square of interfacing under the spot where your buttonhole goes if your fabric is thin or loosely woven.
Hop on over to the Blueprints for Sewing blog for the rest of this tutorial!
Still need a copy of the A-Frame pattern? You can find it here.