Looking for a last minute gift idea for mom? Shame on you for your poor planning, but we’ve got you covered! Purchase ePatterns from shopsewitall.com and use fabrics from your stash to stitch a handmade gift Mom will love. Like this belt bag:
Ah, Mother’s Day. If you’re lucky you get to spend it doing what you love and NOT doing anything you don’t like (how’s that for a double negative).
My favorite Mother’s Day would be spent with the entire house cleaned by a cleaning crew, while I shop and sewed all weekend long. My favorite meals would be cooked and then little faeries would clean up every scrap, do the dishes and have the entire kitchen back to order.
Next, I would stay up really late doing whatever I wanted and then wake up to a peacefully quiet house. Oh, and I would have fresh, beautiful flowers in every room of the house.
A girl can dream can’t she? Well here are a few things that I think would be great under the Mother’s Day tree. How about you? What would your perfect Mother’s Day be like?
Today’s post is a special edition for waistband construction and the use of buckrum in garment construction. Also, please note that the You-tube video has a grey screen, but the video portion is there, just click to play. We hope you are enjoying the Decades of Style Sew Along! Now let’s have Rhonda get to it.
In today’s modern world of dressing, we seem to be getting more and more away from a traditional waistband. But a waistband should not go the way of the dinosaurs!!! A waistband offers lots of design possibilities as well as a foundation for a belt that can give the illusion of a tiny waist. Notice, I did say illusion!!!
In the accompanying video, I tell a story about a skirt that I had the opportunity to purchase when I was in high school. Believe it or not, it was an actual Yves St. Laurent wrap skirt. The wool was the most beautiful wool I had ever seen and the skirt was impeccably crafted.
It was that skirt that inspired me to take my sewing to a level that prior to that, I didn’t know existed. What intrigued me the most was the construction of the waistband. It had a hard substance inside that no matter what I did with the skirt, the waistband held its shape.
What was inside was something called waistband buckrum, not to be confused with ban roll. At the time, I was able to purchase waistband buckrum from my local fabric store. Sadly, that is no longer the case. But if you do a search for waistband buckrum, you will find a source for it on Etsy.
When I cut my waistbands, I always like to cut them on the selvage edge of the fabric. The selvage is the most stable part of the fabric and by cutting the waistband on this edge, you will be able to ensure that the waistband will hold its shape.
Since I am using the waistband buckrum inside the waistband, I did not interface my waistband, but I did add a layer of batiste, just as I did to the body of the skirt.
Once I have inserted the buckrum, the waistband is folded over and stitched in the ditch between the waistband the the skirt. As you can see, the stitches are very difficult to see.
Inside, the waistband has a finished edge thanks to the selvage edge and there is a stitching line that helps to ensure that the waist will not stretch out of shape with wearing.
For my cotton skirt, I cut the waistband on the selvage edge, but I added a layer of fusible knit rather than the cotton batiste. This gave my cotton just a little more body. Once the waistband is finished, I will go back and trim off the eyelashes from the edge of the fabric.
Waistband buckrum comes in various widths. I like the 1 1/4″ width. Once the waistband has been sewn to the skirt, simply lay the buckrum along the stitching line and stitch to the seam allowance.
The buckrum will be stitched from one end of the waistband to the other.
To finish the ends, simply fold the waistband over and stitch the end. Clip the edge prior to turning.
Fold the edge under on a 45 degree angle on the back side so that the selvage will not interfere with the zipper.
The same will be done on the opposite end.
Take note that while I was stitching the waistband, once I came to the extension end, I simply turned and took 1 stitch in and then stitched to the end of the extension. Other than the stitches that you see on the extension, the stitches that are in the ditch of the waistband are virtually impossible to see.
Not only was the waistband finished beautifully on that Yves St. Laurent skirt, the hooks were as well.
To stitch a hook in this manner, I begin by tying a knot that I hide underneath my hook.
I then come through the hole in the hook and form a figure 8 with my thread. I then insert my needle into the back of the top loop of the figure 8.
Once the first stitch is established, insert the needle, form a loop,
and then insert the needle into the loop.
Continue all the way around the hook and pull tight.
Your finished hook will be lovely and even better, you won’t have to worry about the hook threads unraveling.
In our next post, we will talk about how to create a lining for the Arches skirt. It takes just a little extra time, but it is time well spent!
A New Day, A New Chance to Win…A Sewing Cabinet!
Happy Monday! We hope you had a wonderful weekend. Today’s a new day, with a new scavenger hunt and cool sewing prize to win!
Our next scavenger hunt sponsor is Arrow Cabinets, maker of diverse and stylish furniture that’s suitable for your sewing needs. From tables to cabinets to chairs, Arrow’s furniture caters specifically to the avid sewist, as well as quilters and embroiders. No more sewing on your kitchen table!
Arrow has been kind enough to provide their Olivia Cabinet as the grand prize in this scavenger hunt! Valued at $660, this vintage-inspired cabinet comes in a stylish pistachio color and features a 64-inch-wide table top, as well as ample storage space to keep your area organized. An adjustable mechanism allows you to move your sewing machine to your liking, so you can sit comfortably as you work.
To view the scavenger hunt questions and get started, click here. You’ll find the answers to the questions at www.arrowcabinets.com. The scavenger hunt begins today and ends on Monday, May 11, and you must answer all questions correctly in order to be entered to win.
The new issue ofSew Newswill be hitting newsstands in a few weeks, but we know how life can get away from you sometimes: Have you read through the current issue yet?? If not, take a gander at the cute projects and great techniques (not to mention the redesigned layout).
If you’re not familiar with the Cool Tools column, it’s packed with the best new notions, fabric and patterns to help YOU get the most out of your sewing. Visit shopsewitall.com for even more great tools.
In this issue, we brought you these nifty outdoor clothing patterns by The Green Pepper. And now you have a chance to win them!
Enter to win these great patterns by answering this question in the comments section at the end of the post: “Have you ever stitched a jacket or other outdoor clothing?”
It can be intimidating; all those zippers, buttons, snaps, plus the heavyweight fabric! The clear instructions in these patterns will help you navigate these new waters for an excellent finished garment!
Thanks for joining week 2 of the Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along. We’re now moving into the construction phase of the sew along. But, there is still time to join in at any time of the sew along. Be sure to post pics on our Flickr page. Decades of Style would love to see what you are making as would we! Leave comments on the blog and Rhonda or myself will answer. So, take it away Rhonda!
The Decades of Style Arches Skirt is the perfect pattern for taking your sewing skills to a little higher level. In recent years, especially with knits becoming the mainstay of our wardrobes, underlining has become somewhat a thing of the past. But here’s the catch, once you’ve underlined a garment, there’s no going back! The garment will hang and wear beautifully.
Typically, a garment that has been underlined will only need a little steaming before it is worn again. The wool crepe skirt that is in the magazine was underlined with cotton batiste and the cotton that I have chosen for the sew along will also be underlined with the same fine weight of cotton batiste. As I said in our last post, do not use muslin or quilting cotton as you will not achieve the desired outcome.
Once you have purchased your cotton batiste, wash, dry and iron it prior to cutting. Cut the batiste just as you did your fashion fabric. Lay the batiste over the cut fashion fabric pieces and once again, lightly steam the 2 fabrics together. Pin the fabrics together and then hand baste the batiste to your fashion fabric. Be sure to hand baste the 2 together as the tension on your machine may be a little tight. We want the stitches to be firm, but not too tight.
I do my basting stitches just inside the seam allowance so that there will be no need to remove them once the skirt has been sewn together. Once you have basted the batiste to all of your garment pieces, lay the pattern pieces back over the batiste and mark all dots and cross marks with tailor tacks. It is imperative that you are very diligent about the markings on this skirt.
After the videos were done for the sew along, I found this great piece of piping and knew that it would be the perfect accent for the arch in my skirt. Adding piping is really quite simple to do.
The seam allowance on the arches skirt is 5/8″. Simply lay the piping on the 5/8″ line and sew in place. Take note that I stopped sewing the piping at the cross mark and then left just about a 1″ tail.
Press back the seam allowances on the 2 pleat panels of the skirt and then lay them over the center panel. Take note that the left front panel will need to be trimmed.
Begin with the left front panel. Lay it over the center panel and pin in place. Now, attach the pleat panel to the center panel by top stitching the pleat panel to the center panel. The top stitching will end at the cross mark. Repeat with the right pleat panel.
In order to have a clean finish, I simply turned back my piping at the cross mark and then finished my top stitching just below the piping. The end of the piping is then hidden inside the top stitching.
In the picture below, you can see where I have pinned my pleat panel to the center panel and my final pin is just below the piping that has been turned back.
The piping is in place and the point of the arch is perfect. Since the 2 pleat panels are laid over the center panel and top stitched in place, the point of the arch will always be perfect.
Now lay the pleat panels over the side front panels and top stitch them in place. After all of the panels have been top stitched together, sew the pleat seams. The front of the skirt is now complete.
The piping adds just the right amount to interest to the arched shaping.
The next step will be to sew the zipper into the center back seam and sew in the back skirt darts. Once that has been completed, sew the front skirt to the back skirt. At this point, try the skirt on and make any necessary fit adjustments.
In our next post we will talk about making the waistband and adding a special insert that will give you a waistband that will always hold its shape. We will also sew in the hooks and I will show you how to do a lovely stitched edge around the hooks.
The Hunt Begins! Browse Sulky’s Website for a Chance to Win Big!
Didn’t you just love scavenger hunts as a kid? The excitement of running around looking for clues was half the fun! But we all know that the real fun came with the prospect of winning a big prize at the end of the quest.
We have a newsflash for you: you’re never too old to go on a scavenger hunt, so we’re inviting you to partake in our own! We’re ringing in our 35th anniversary with an online scavenger hunt that leads you on a journey through several sponsors’ websites—and first on our list is Sulky! But before we go too far down the rabbit hole, let’s explain how this fun scavenger hunt will work:
Throughout the next few months, we’ll launch a new sponsored scavenger hunt that will run for a week.
Each scavenger hunt will have its own set of questions to answer. To hunt down the answers, you’ll go to the sponsor’s website and search for them.
Once you submit your answers to the scavenger hunt, sit tight and wait for the next scavenger hunt to launch!
You’ll be entered to win some fantastic sewing prizes from some of our favorite people in the industry. What better way to celebrate our birthday than by giving you presents?
As we mentioned, Sulky is the first sponsored scavenger hunt on our list! A well-known supplier of thread, books, and more, they want you to learn all about their products in order to answer their scavenger hunt questions. Once you submit your answers, you’ll be entered to win 1 Dream Assortment of 30 Wt Cotton New 64 Colors–a $418.31 value!
Can you believe that at any moment the next royal baby of Price William and Duchess Kate is due to arrive?! I am still in awe of how adorable Prince George is. In honor of this special arrival I will be sharing a few books that are royal baby worthy.
Sewing for a Royal Baby will let new mothers and grandmothers create a royal wardrobe for their new little one using the complete patterns and instructions provided with the book. These aren’t just any children’s garments, but elegant designs featuring heirloom sewing techniques. Some, like the Royal Christening Gown or a suit worn by a young Prince William, are inspired by actual royal attire, while others have been selected from past issues of Sew Beautiful magazine for their majestic style.
From bonnets and booties to breathtaking christening gowns and sweet toddler looks, Sewing for the Royal Baby lets the sewists create a wardrobe fit for a little prince or princess using a variety of machine and heirloom sewing techniques.
About the Author:
Sew Beautiful magazine has been at the forefront of the heirloom sewing niche for more than 25 years. Founder Martha Pullen has authored some of the best-belling heirloom sewing books, continues to run a successful sewing school twice a year in Huntsville and has a devoted customer base.
With beautiful photographs to inspire you, Perfect Party Dresses will be your guide to making party dress dreams come true. Whether you’re just learning how to sew, or are seasoned in your craft, you’ll love sewing dress patterns using techniques including smocking, embellishing and embroidery.
Along with easy-to-follow instructions for 12 glorious smocked dresses and three petticoats, this must-have book includes more than 180 step-by-step photographs, full-color smocking graphs, detailed construction diagrams and multi-size lift-out patterns. Learn how to expertly tie a perfect sash bow and discover helpful hints and tips for finishing touches and taking care of smocked and embroidered garments. From birthdays to weddings, this beautiful collection of stunning smocking designs in sizes 2-10 years is sure to provide something spectacular for every special occasion in a young lady’s life.
Can you guess it?!? It’s another GIVEAWAY!!! I will be giving the wonderful prize of Sewing for a Royal Baby from the editors of Sew Beautiful magazine! All you have to do for your chance to win the giveaway is answer the below question in our comments section. A winner will be chosen at random next Friday, May 1st.
“What do you think the name of the next royal baby will be?”
It’s here! The Decades of Style Arches Skirt Sew Along. Seems like forever since the last one (the fabulous Sew Chic Valentine Skirt, which you can read about here and purchase the pattern here if you would like to sew this beauty up). This skirt has so many possibilities and we are so sure you’re going to love sewing this and wearing it. So, let’s get started!
Based on a vintage 1940′s design, the Decades of Style Arches skirt is a graceful design that will work well in every wardrobe. The skirt is basically an a-line design with 2 front box pleats that cascade from an arched design that lays just below the waistline.
The back of the skirt is simple with darts radiating from the waist and a center back zipper application. Since the skirt is based on a vintage pattern, the length is rather long, so keep this in mind. I cut 6″ off of the original pattern which resulted in a finished skirt length of just below the knee.
When thinking about fabric choices, keep in mind where you will be wearing the skirt and of course the time of the year. Believe it or not, except in the hottest climates, wool crepe makes a lovely year round fabric choice. The skirt pictured above and in the magazine was made out of wool crepe. It holds the pleats beautifully, and wears effortlessly. Even after an entire day of wearing the skirt, a light steaming is all that will be needed before the skirt is worn again. A wool suiting would also make a lovely fabric choice as would linen and medium to bottom weight cottons. For the sew along, I will be making the skirt out of a medium weight cotton. If using wool crepe, be sure to use your iron and steam the fabric from the wrong side prior to cutting.
During the sew along, I will show you how to underline the skirt. If you have never underlined a garment, I encourage you to give it a try. Once you have underlined a garment, I can assure you that you will want to underline every garment that you make. To underline the skirt, I used a fine weight of cotton batiste. Good cotton batiste can be a little pricey, but it is well worth the investment. Please do not use a cotton muslin or quilting cotton. Neither will give the desired effect and will only add bulk to your finished garment. If you do decide to underline the skirt, you will need the same amount of fabric for the underlining as you need of your fashion fabric. Once you have purchased the batiste, be sure to wash, dry, and iron it before cutting it out.
The arches were accented with top stitching in the sample skirt. For the sew along, I will show you how to accent the arches with piping.
The skirt pattern does not include a pattern for the lining, but I will show you how to alter the pattern to accommodate a lining. Once again, if you would like to line the skirt, you will need the same amount of lining fabric as you need of your fashion fabric. When lining your skirt, think outside the box and use a lining that adds a little fun and maybe an unexpected surprise to your skirt. I had a lovely piece of animal print silk charmeuse that I used for my lining. I enjoy looking at the inside as much as I do the outside!
Please check out this short video for more on fabric choice and pattern elements.
In our next post, I will show you how to baste the underlining to each piece. We will talk about how to apply the piping to the arches. In our next post, you will also see just how easy it is to create a perfect arched point. If only all points could be this easy!!!
Thanks so much for sewing along with me. I think you are going to absolutely love your Decades of Style Arches Skirt!
As part of our new and growing online education offerings we have a wonderful web seminar that will be led by Amy Barickman of Indygo Junction. Read more details on how you can learn how to start a fabric arts business.
Live Web Seminar Date: April 28, 2015 Start Time: 1 pm EST Length: 60 Minutes
Launching a creative arts business in today’s market can be a profitable yet challenging endeavor. As a creative entrepreneur there are many decisions to be made about your brand and the products you offer. Learn about many opportunities that exist for building and growing your business including publishing, licensing, and partnering with manufacturers and influencers.
Amy will share her nearly 25 years of experience in the sewing and fabric arts with an eye toward inspiring and educating those with the entrepreneurial spirit. Her discussion focuses on product development, manufacturing, and licensing, sales channels including catalogs, home shopping networks, bricks and mortar independent retailers and chain stores, wholesale and retail trade shows, collaborating with industry influencers, working with technology including online classes/webinars/videos, and social media marketing.
What You’ll Learn:
Recognize different sales channel opportunities
Marketing tips to build and monetize your community
Product Development Strategy and Processes
How to collaborate with others in the industry to increase sales & reach
Making use of current technologies to increase profits
Strategies to engage your community
Funding tips for expanding your business
About the Instructor:
Amy Barickman, founder and owner of Indygo Junction, The Vintage Workshop and Amy Barickman LLC, is a creative leader in the sewing and needle arts industry. In 1990, Amy founded Indygo Junction, a sewing pattern and book publishing company, to showcase the work of leading fabric and needle arts designers. Amy has a passion for all things vintage and has an impressive collection of textiles and handmade fabric art. This collection is the inspiration for much of Amy’s work including the 15 fabric lines she designed for Red Rooster Fabrics. Amy recently launched her Crossroads Brand with denim fabric and patterns and will introduce a cotton line with RJR Fabrics in summer 2015.
With a knack for anticipating popular trends and new talent, Amy has discovered more than 40 innovative artists and designers, a list that is ever expanding. Amy’s ability as a collaborative entrepreneur and creative architect has allowed her to design and market an impressive list of patterns and book releases, having released 1000 pattern titles and published 80 books, including recent releases Amy Barickman’s Vintage Notions: An Inspirational Guide to Needlework, Cooking, Sewing, Fashion and Fun, Indygo Junction’s Fabric Flowers, and The Magic Pattern Book.
Through her blogs, websites and e-newsletters, Amy inspires countless crafters to explore their own creative spirit and experiment with the newest sewing, fabric and crafting techniques. Keep up with Amy as she shares her ideas and inspiration at www.amybarickman.com and www.IndygoJunction.com and www.freevintagegraphics.com.
Who Should Attend:
Entrepreneurs who want to grow their business
Designers/business owners who want to build partnerships and collaborations
New business owners who want to learn about marketing and social media opportunities
Pattern designers looking for information on product development, self-publishing & manufacturing
Bloggers interested in selling to their community & exploring additional revenue streams
Creative spirits looking to turn their passion to profit
Each registration comes with access to the archived version of the event as well as any handouts referenced during the presentation. You do not have to attend the live event to get the recording of the presentation or the handouts. In all web seminars, no question goes unanswered. Attendees have the ability to chat with the instructor during the live event and ask questions. You will receive a copy of the web seminar presentation in an e-mail that goes out one week after the live event. The answers to questions not covered in the live presentation will be included in this e–mail as well.
For all of you who are interested in starting your own creative business I do hope you join me and Amy in this wonderful web seminar.