The Sewaholic Robson Trench Week 4 & 5!
Due to holiday schedules we’re going to combine the last weeks of the Robson Coat Sew Along. There are video portions for each and the end of the post. Don’t forget to post your photos on Flickr! If you would like to join at a later time the blog posts will remain up as will the video portions. If you would like to purchase the pattern and get started later head to Shopsewitall to purchase!
Thanks for joining along! And, now here’s our fearless leader, Rhonda!
We’re in the final stretch!
Now that the collar and flaps have been attached, we’re ready to set in our sleeves. There’s a bit of work that needs to be done to the sleeve before it’s set in ready. The sleeves have tabs like the tabs that were sewn for the shoulders. Sew them together just as you did with the shoulder tabs. Press and top stitch.
There are notches on the sleeve pattern that you will match the notches to. Be sure that your tabs are facing in the right direction. The tabs should go over the top of the sleeve and face towards the back.
When sewing the bias tape to the sleeve seam, be sure that the seam will be facing in the right direction. If you sew the seam so that it is facing in the wrong direction, it will cause the tab to flip and go in the wrong direction. Finish the bias tape just as you have for the body of the coat and top stitch the seam.
The first seam is easy to sew and top stitch since the sleeve is still open, but once the back seam is sewn, it’s much more difficult to top stitch the seam. The easiest way to top stitch the seam is to stitch inside the sleeve. The wrong side of the sleeve will be facing out. Once you get close to the wrist, you may need to cut your thread and then go in from the wrist end to finish the top stitching.
Determine the hem of your sleeve prior to sewing on the bias tape. Once you have determined the length of your sleeve, sew on the bias tape and stitch the hem on the machine.
Once the sleeves have been set into the coat, trim the armholes down to 1/4″ and finish with the bias tape.
Sew the back neck facing to the front facing and finish the edges with the bias tape. Attach facing to the coat. The inside of the coat is beginning to look so pretty!
Stay stitch the back neck facing between each shoulder. Once the stay stitching is complete, tack the back neck facing to the coat at the shoulder seams and the center back seam.
Sew bias tape to the hem of the coat. Press hem in place.
Top stitch down the front of the coat from the collar to the hem. Turn and stitch across the hem.
If you careful about pressing your hem evenly, you can use the ditch of the bias tape along the hem as a guide for sewing your hem.
The hem is finished.
There are notches on the pattern pieces that have been provided as a guide for the belt loops. I recommend trying the coat on and tying the belt around you to determine the best placement of the belt loops.
Once the placement has been determined, cut the belt loops. The instructions state to cut the loops 4″ long. I used the entire length of my loop strip and my loops ended up being 4 1/2″ long. It’s not a lot, but just in case you would like to use a purchased belt with your coat and it’s a little wider than the belt pattern, you’ll be in good shape. When stitching the belt loops to the coat, I recommend using a size 16 top stitching needle.
Sew up the belt, turn and top stitch. I used the entire length of the pattern for my belt as I like ample length to tie my belt.
The coat I’ve been working on for the sew along is almost finished….almost. As you can see, the belt and the buttons are missing. I have not quite decided what I would like to do with my belt. At the moment, I think I want a belt with a buckle, but we’ll see. As for the buttons, they have been ordered and I’m just waiting for them to arrive.
All in all, I am VERY pleased with my new coat.
In determining the placement of your buttons, you can follow the button placement that is on the pattern, but I recommend trying the coat on. With the coat on your body, you can determine the best placement for your body.
The buttons that you chose may not be the exact same size as those used for the pattern. Here’s a rule of thumb when determining where the buttonhole should begin in relationship to the front edge of the coat. Measure the button. Measure over from the front edge of the coat, half the size of the button plus 1/2″. So if you are using a 1 1/2″ button, your buttonhole will begin 1 1/4″ from the front edge of the coat. Half the size of the button is 3/4″. Add 1/2″ and the total will be 1 1/4″. Nothing screams homemade more than a button hole that is too close to the edge of a garment. And for that matter, too far away from the edge as well.
I hope you’ve enjoyed the sew along. The Robson Trench is a lovely coat that will work with everything from jeans to an evening gown, depending upon the fabric that you choose. Another nice aspect about this pattern is that it lends itself to so many different fabric choices. You can make this coat out of everything from lace to corduroy! I now have 2 in my wardrobe and I won’t be surprised if I decide to have another 1 or 2!!! Once you get one made, I bet you’ll want another too
Thanks for sewing along with me!
Week 4 Closures & Buttons
Plus Finishing Details Video