Pants Review: Butterick 5893

 The month of October we’re celebrating Pants Month. We’ll have tips and tricks for making pants of your own. As well as reviews from all the editors of Sew News on their favorite pant patterns. Next is Jill with her review of Butterick 5893, sewn up in a gorgeous velvet fabric.

butterick Pants Review: Butterick 5893Pattern: Butterick 5893

Fabric: Purple velvet

Size: 10

Adjustments: Shortened crotch length and cropped the pant length.

Mini Review: I love sewing elastic waist pants. They come together super fast. One adjustment I always need to make on pants is to shorten the crotch length. It’s an easy adjustment to make. I liked this particular pattern for the scoop pockets and wide leg. The featured fabric is polyester velvet, which is washable and not nearly as fussy or as expensive as silk velvet. Elastic waist pants can be made up in just about any fabric, taking your wardrobe from casual to fancy in just a few seams.

Plus, learning about fit with these easy-to-make pants is a great introduction to making pants. Lastly, I haven’t sewn with velvet in a long time. I  used the BurdaStyle e-book, Crushing on Velvet. It’s packed with all kinds of tips for sewing with this sometime tricky fabric. As a result, they look and wear perfectly.

JILL HS CROPPED 150x150 Pants Review: Butterick 5893Have you sewn up any pants this season? Tried any elastic waist pants? Are you interested in learning how to make a crotch length adjustment? Let me know in the comments section below!

 Pants Review: Butterick 5893
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Nora Doctor Bag Sew Along, week 3: Adding Piping to Pockets

This week we’re continuing our discussion regarding adding couture details to bags and piping is one of my favorite ways to create a polished finish. In week 1, we discussed interfacing, and for week 2, we covered double welt pockets. This week, pattern designer Alicia Miller joins us to share her expert bag-making tips as we learn to customize an interior slip pocket with piping. There’s still time to join! Grab a copy of the paper pattern at shopsewitall.com, get your supplies and get started! Take it away, Alicia!

nora bag week 31 Nora Doctor Bag Sew Along, week 3: Adding Piping to Pockets

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 Nora Doctor Bag Sew Along, week 3: Adding Piping to Pockets
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Pants Pattern Review: Ninni Culottes by Named Clothing

ninni Pants Pattern Review: Ninni Culottes by Named Clothing

Pattern: Ninni Culottes, Named

Fabric: Tencel twill

Size: 14

Any Adjustments: After making a muslin, I shortened the crotch on the pant front and back and sized down 2-3 sizes. For the pair featured here, I extended the culottes to ankle length and added simple slash pockets.

Screen Shot 2017 09 29 at 1.56.07 PM 205x300 Pants Pattern Review: Ninni Culottes by Named ClothingReview: These pants are full-on culottes, folks! The pattern was designed for lighter weight knits, but I’ve sewn them in wovens and there’s plenty of ease.

To get a more traditional culotte length, more indicative of the pattern cover, I would have had to shorten these 6”. Instead, after my muslin, I made them longer, to just above the ankle. I also sized down to reduce some of the width: these pants are super wide. I love the added length on me, as it helps balance the width of the pant leg, which I also love: these pants are comfortable and swishy, with a whole lot of movement.

So my verdict? Easy fit (size down, probably), perfect for all the drapey fabrics, yay for #secretpajamas, and, once I got used to the style on me, I’m planning to make at least a few more pairs. They’re also a nice base for basic customization. I’d like to create a full-length pair for fall, with a paperbag style waist and a self-fabric belt, maybe?? Because if you’re wearing suuuper wide-legged culottes, you might as well embrace the statement you’re making.

 Pants Pattern Review: Ninni Culottes by Named Clothing
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Project Runway Recap: Episode 10 Driving Miss Unconventional

Project Runway Recap, Season 16, Episode 10: Driving Miss Unconventional

Screen Shot 2017 10 20 at 9.55.53 AM1 Project Runway Recap: Episode 10 Driving Miss Unconventional

photos courtesy of mylifetime.com.
 

PROJECT RUNWAY 102017 1024x537 Project Runway Recap: Episode 10 Driving Miss Unconventional

This week the designers had to use “safety” materials to create a look in the Lexus unconventional challenge. A collection of caution tape, bungee cords, fire hoses, traffic cones and the like were stuffed into three cars, and the designers had three minutes to grab as much or as little as they needed for their looks.

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Only six designers are left, so each one had to up their game to stay in the competition. From the get-go, Ayana looked like the front runner. She really focused and decided to go really big–tackling a lot of materials and a lot of pieces for her look.

Screen Shot 2017 10 20 at 10.00.48 AM Project Runway Recap: Episode 10 Driving Miss Unconventional Everyone in the room commented on their inadequacies during this challenge–except Ayana. She won the last unconventional challenge and she was confident she could do it again–she even got the same model, which helped with fitting challenges. The bodice of her dress was made of a blow-up boat and she broke reflectors and applied them to the bodice in a mosaic pattern. Wow.

Screen Shot 2017 10 20 at 9.52.17 AM Project Runway Recap: Episode 10 Driving Miss Unconventional I thought it was super cool. Although, I was a bit concerned when she had to hot glue her sleeves on seconds before the runway show. Gotta do what you gotta do!

Brandon’s look was pretty neat. He achieved a lot of volume by using fire hose as binding for his top. It acted almost like horsehair braid and made the top poof out. It was a cool look, and looked “signature Brandon,” and his model looked quite good in it. I liked how many materials he snuck into the look without it looking patchwork-ish.

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Margarita was also in the top with her “superwoman-esque” outfit. I thought it was a little trashy, to be honest. But she did do some cool things by sawing helmets in half to make shoulder pads. I thought it could have been more finished, if that makes sense. Though the judges really loved it.

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Kenya’s look was…weird. I actually couldn’t believe that the judges liked it as much as they did. The model looked like a penguin with super wide hips. The silhouette was off–unbalanced and bottom heavy. The zipper broke as soon as she put it on the model. There were so many issues–and they loved it! I did appreciate that she saw the seatbelts and went for it. That’s all she used in her design, and she placed the hardware very thoughtfully. However….it looks like a sloppy mess to me. And, again, for the second week in a row–her model couldn’t walk very well.

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Kentaro was in the bottom. Nina thought his look was a “Pocahontas costume.” And, I have to agree. He really went for it with the hair and shoes…but what a terrible look.

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Michael made a bungee-wrapped bustier and mini skirt with some mesh wrapped around it. I remember many designers trying this tying, weaving, knotting of straps in previous years and it never goes well. The guest judge (cannot remember who she even was or why she was qualified to be a judge) called the look “hookerish.” Welp, what do YOU think?

Screen Shot 2017 10 20 at 9.52.55 AM Project Runway Recap: Episode 10 Driving Miss Unconventional Oh, em, gee. I’m just going to leave it here…Michael goes home for his lack of originality and for not challenging himself more. They did mention the “Tim Gunn save” numerous times during this episode, so I thought he might use it. But alas, Michael returned to the workroom to clean up his space.

Ayana comes out on top: a well-deserved win, IMO.

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It’s really getting good now! Even though those twins overstayed their welcome, I have to say the talent has risen to the top. I hope there’s an upcoming challenge where previous designers get to come back and help create a look–I just want to see Samantha come back!

Congrats, Ayana! She is so humble and talented. I’d love to see her take the win in the end (though I’ve thought it was going to be Brandon since episode 2 when Heidi fawned over him…time will tell).

Screen Shot 2017 10 20 at 9.51.54 AM Project Runway Recap: Episode 10 Driving Miss Unconventional

 

 

 

 

 Project Runway Recap: Episode 10 Driving Miss Unconventional
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Pants Pattern Review: Alexandria Peg Trousers

The month of October we’re celebrating Pants Month here at Sew News. We’ll have tips and tricks for making pants of your own, as well as reviews from the editors of Sew News on their favorite pant patterns. Today we’re featuring Ellen’s review of the Alexandra Peg Trousers from Named Clothing.

alexandria Pants Pattern Review: Alexandria Peg Trousers

 

Pattern: Alexandra Peg Trousers, Named Clothing

Fabric: Cotton + Steel Frock Navy Rayon

Size: 8

Any Adjustments: I was between sizes and sized down because of the fullness built into the waist and the forgiveness afforded by the elastic and drawstring combo. These pants fit perfectly without any adjustments needed. I made them exactly as directed.

Review: These were the easiest pants I’ve ever made, despite having a bit of trouble navigating the waist pleats. After pleating, basting and pressing, one pleat is folded into the pocket. Once I made sure everything was flat on the fabric wrong side, the pants came together easily. I just needed a mental adjustment (and the help of a few friends) to make sure I was on the right track! The pants are super comfy — I recommend a drapey fabric similar to the rayon I used — for the best result.

 Pants Pattern Review: Alexandria Peg Trousers
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Nora Doctor Bag Sew Along, Week 2: Double Welt Pockets

Did last week get you in the mood for bag sewing? Us too! This week, pattern designer Alicia Miller presents her technique for double welt pockets. On the interior or as an exterior pocket, this technique is the perfect way to add finish and polish to your bag. There’s still time to join! Grab a copy of the paper pattern at shopsewitall.com, get your supplies and get started! 

nora bag week 2 Nora Doctor Bag Sew Along, Week 2: Double Welt PocketsThis double welt pocket is the perfect way to add polish to your interior bag pockets. I developed this technique when I was drafting the Swoon Bonnie Bucket Bag pattern. I wanted to include something new, an alternative to the usual exposed zipper pocket. By a lot trial and error, I came up with this way to make one. It’s fast and easy, but don’t try to put this pocket on a pair of pants – it’s a little too bulky for clothing (though works perfectly for bags!). Continue reading

 Nora Doctor Bag Sew Along, Week 2: Double Welt Pockets
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A Look Into Steampunk: Fashion, Art & Technology

Steampunk, for the uninitiated is a sub genre of science fiction that masterfully blends Victorian and futuristic elements. Don’t confuse it with Goth or Emo. Steampunk in my opinion is far more artful. Here is a mini primer on Steampunk with examples from film, fiction, art and fashion.

I think my interest in Steampunk began while watching reruns of Wild Wild West with Robert Conrad when I was little.  I loved all those crazy gadgets and evil villains like Emma Valentine played wickedly by Anges Moorhead and Dr. Faustina (the great Ida Lupino). The show drew inspiration from Edgar Allan Poe, HG Wells and of course Jules Verne.

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Graphic from Wild Wild West Show, courtesy of CBS

Steampunk fiction continues to grow and evolve as a genre. Michael Moorcock is good place to start with traditional Steampunk fiction. Steampunk fiction is influenced by authors such as Charles Dickens, and again HG Wells, and Jules Verne.  Personally, I thought Harry Harrison’s Stainless Steel Rat series was Steampunk, but some would argue that it’s only sci-fi. Continue reading

 A Look Into Steampunk: Fashion, Art & Technology
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