The Basics - choosing a pattern - Page 1

From our January 2004 Issue


		The Basics Choosing a pattern Introducing an on-going series explaining the basics of sewing--clip and save each one for easy reference.

A PATTERN IS THE ROADMAP to a successful sewing project. It tells you how much and what kind of fabric you need, what the finished item will look like and how to put the pieces together to create a project you can be proud of. To select the right pattern for you, all you need is an idea of what you want to create and a basic list of your measurements.

size wise
Rather than going by your ready-to-wear garment size, you'll need to compare your body measurements with the sewing industry standard measurements to find the correct pattern size. Just as clothing fit differs from designer to designer, ready-to-wear sizing has no relationship to sewing pattern sizes. Use the measurement chart in the back of the pattern book or on the envelope as a guideline. The good news is, all major pattern companies adhere to the same standard measurements so your pattern size is the same from brand to brand. Finally, don't fret if your pattern size is larger than your ready-to-wear size--there won't be any size labels on the finished garment!
While it's helpful to have an extensive list of your body measurements prior to choosing and sewing a pattern, the key measurements needed for pattern selection are bust, high bust, waist, hip and back length (1). Take these measurements over your undergarments taking care not to hold the tape measure too tight or too loose. If possible, enlist a friend to measure while you stand comfortably during the process. Stand in your usual posture --don't stand straight and suck in your stomach if you don't normally stand that way. Update your measurements every six months to account for changes that may occur.

The bust measurement is taken around the body across the fullest part of the breasts, under the arms and straight across the back. Patterns are drafted for the B-cup figure. If you are a B-cup or smaller use the bust measurement. If you are a C-cup or bigger, use your high-bust measurement for pattern selection.

The high-bust measurement is taken directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the breasts (you're measuring your actual chest without the extra padding). If the bust measurement exceeds the high-bust measurement by 2 1/2", purchase the pattern based on the high bust (and make a bust alteration on the pattern).

The waist measurement is taken around the natural waist. Tie a string around your waist to help identify your natural waistline.

The hip measurement is taken around the fullest part of the hip, which for women is generally 7" to 9" below the waist.

The back length is measured from the most prominent bone in the back of the neck, down the center back to the natural waist. (Bend your head forward and feel for the vertebra at the base of your neck for the starting point.)
     To determine the correct pattern size, compare your measurements to the ones listed on the pattern envelope. Also, refer to the back length to help determine if you need a petite size. Your measurements may not all line up under the same size-this is very common. Simply use your best judgment and refer to "Which Size to Choose" to help make your decision.
     If you're small-boned or if you prefer a close fit, choose the smaller size when between pattern sizes. If the pattern sketch or photography shows a close fit, it's safer to choose the larger size. For more information, check the index pages in the back of the pattern catalogs at the fabric store for extensive information on pattern size and measuring.
     Pattern companies understand that people come in all sizes, shapes and ages. A majority of patterns come in multisized packages that include a range of sizes, 10-12-14 for example. This gives sewers tremendous flexibility and makes minor alterations easier.
     If your waist falls under the size 10 range and your hips match a size 14, you can easily make an adjustment because both sizes are included in the pattern.
     Many times there are multiple clothing items included in one pattern package. Not only does this help you coordinate a wardrobe, it can save you money. With multisized patterns, if you need a size 12 top and size 14 bottom, you only need to purchase one pattern. This also comes in handy when sewing garments for several children from the same pattern.

Page2
Which Size to Choose?
Pattern Terms and Measuring for Guys
Source Guide


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