The Basics - choosing a pattern - Page 2

From our January 2004 Issue


		The Basics Choosing a pattern Page 1 Which Size to Choose? Pattern Terms and Measuring for Guys Source Guide

design decision

Pattern catalogs and envelopes provide a wealth of information if you inspect them closely. First look at the photos or illustrations. The artwork will show you how the garment will look upon completion. Notice if the garment looks fitted or oversized. Determine if the neckline falls at a comfortable place for you. Notice if it has drop shoulders or if the sleeves are set in at the natural armhole. These design details are what distinguish similar-looking silhouettes from others.
     In some cases, these details are not always obvious--the line-art illustrations on the envelope back will help clarify any questions. For example, you can see where zippers are located, how the shoulder line falls or if the skirt is flared. The line art can also give you a good idea of how easy or complicated the pattern is--easy patterns tend to have fewer pieces and simple construction.
     Some patterns are marked with logos that give clues to the sewing difficulty. Some collections are designed specifically for beginners such as Simplicity's Sewing for Dummies. Other designations imply that the pattern is "learn to sew or "easy." Logos include Very Easy Vogue, Easy McCalls, Butterick Sew Fast & Easy and Easy Chic by Simplicity Time-related logos such as the The Hour collection from Simplicity also help identify simple patterns. If the patterns are quick to make, they're often easy to sew.
     Review the list of suggested fabrics on the envelope back before making your final pattern selection. Pattern companies test designs in a variety of fabrics to help the consumer identify which fabrics are suitable for that particular design. So, if your heart is set on worsted wool and the pattern is designed for stretch knits only, you'll need to select another pattern. For more information on choosing fabric, see "The Basics" in next month's issue.

A feel for fit

Pattern artwork is very helpful in determining the garment's final fit. The garment description on the envelope back will also clarify how the garment is designed to fit-- fitted, semi-fitted or loose for example. The fit is determined by the ease built into the garment. Ease is the amount of extra inches allowed beyond the standard body measurements in a garment. There are two kinds of ease. Wearing ease is the minimum amount of extra inches that allows you to move in a garment without popping a seam. Design ease is the added amount to create a specific fashion look. Looser garments have more design ease.
     If you're still not sure how full or slim-fitting a garment will be, measure the pattern pieces. Subtract the standard measurement for the pattern size from the pattern actual measurement--the result is how much ease is included. Some pattern companies include the ease amount on the pattern tissue. (To help determine how much ease you like, try on a favorite garment. Pinch the extra cloth at one side and measure the amount to see how much extra there is. Compare this to the pattern and adjust at the side seams if you want more or less ease.) Knowing the finished measurements will help you adjust the fit to your specifications.

you've taken the first step!

Pattern companies want you to have success every time you sew. By taking advantage of all of their suggestions, your chances of success increase.

Elizabeth Barry is an 18-year sewing industry veteran with hundreds of articles for sewing. quilting and craft publications to her credit. She lives in northern New Jersey with her husband and son.

SOURCE Do You Really Know Your Pattern Size? Educational brochure from Simplicity, Butterick, McCall's, and Vogue Patterns. See the Source Guide for company information
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Which Size to Choose?
Pattern Terms and Measuring for Guys
Source Guide


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