Either embroider each panel in its entirety with an extra-large hoop or follow these instructions for multiple hoopings of each panel with a standard size hoop:
Hoop the mesh cut-away stabilizer, place in a box for protection and spray the stabilizerwith temporary adhesive.
Adhere the fabric to the stabilizer and embroider the first part of the design.
Next, mirror-image the design, hoop the stabilizer, spray and embroider the design again.
Align and embroider the remaining designs for the panel.
Trim the excess stabilizer from the back of each design.
Note: Be sure to stitch a single motif for the front panels at the opening edges and add a singleholiday motif at the end.
Fold each of the remaining six tree skirt panels in half and finger-press to mark the center. Mark the desired position on each panel (F). If you have an extra-large hoop, embroider a swag in each of the six panels and proceed to "Skirt Construction" below
Skirt Construction
Note: All seam allowances are 1/2".
To stabilize the outer edges of each panel and keep them from stretching out of shape during the remaining steps,cut 16, 2 "x l1 1/2" strips of fusible knit interfacing; cut with the least stretch along the length of the fabric (lengthwise grain). Pink one long edge of each strip.
With straight raw edges even, fuse the interfacing strips to the wrong side at each panel lower edge following themanufacturer's directions. Trim the excess to miter the point where the strips meet on each panel (G).
Cut two 2"x 211Ú2" strips of fusible knit interfacing as above and pink one long edge of each piece to stabilize theopening. With the straight raw edges even, fuse the interfacing strips the wrong side of the front panel openingedges.
Sew each front panel to one of the remaining panels. Position and stitch a swag and holiday motif over the seamas shown (H).
Sew the remaining panels together. Leave the front open.
To make a lining pattern piece, trace two of the panels together (overlap seam allowances) onto tissue paper or pattern tracing paper (I). Cut out four lining panels from the felt and stitch together, leaving an opening to becomethe front. Press the seams open.
Set the machine for a wide zigzag stitch and stitch over the seam allowances. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching.
Position the purchased welting 1/8" inside the seamline with the corded portion facing away from the seam allowance; stitch in place with a zipper foot (J). To join the welting ends, tuck one end over the other and baste theoverlap in place.
Cut the cord into two lengths and slip the loop of a tassel over each one. Machine tack the loop to the cordcenter. Bring the two raw ends together and hold together with masking tape (K).
To finish the skirt upper raw edge, cut a 2 "x 22" strip of bias from fabric scraps.With raw edges even and excess fabricextending at the welted edges, pin in placeand stitch 1/2" from the raw edges (L).
Trim the excess fabric at each end to 1/2"; turn under and press. Press the bias toward the seam allowance.
With cord raw edges even with the bias raw edges, stitch the cord to the bias wrong side (M). Remove the masking tape from the cord.
Fold the bias over the seam allowance, turning tinder the raw edge so it just covers the stitching. Pin inplace. Stitch in the ditch of the seam from the right side. Stitch across the ends over the cord and backstitch tosecure (N).
Barbara Weiland is a nationally known sewing, quilting, and crafts author, editor, writer, and consultant. She is a regular contributor to Sew News and her most recent book is Secrets for Successful Sewing, published by Rodale. She is a contributing author to Serger Secrets from the same publisher.
Scroll & holly designs: Husqvarna Viking, Disk #18, design 18 and 20
Poinsettia design: Dakota Collectibles, Special Seasonal Designer Assortment for Husqvarna Viking, design 14
Hoop the mesh cut-away stabilizer, place in a box for protection and spray the stabilizerwith temporary adhesive.
