3-D Machine Embroidery - Page 1

From our May 2003 Issue


	Machine Embroidery Add dimension to embroidery by creating freestanding motifs. Linda McGhee

Some designs are digitized specifically for this 3-D technique, but most any design can be adapted if it has a satin stitch or other firm outline. The process of making dimensional flowers is detailed, but butterflies, fairies, bugs and other designs also work well, with all or part of the motif being freestanding.

Fabric

Dimensional designs work best when stitched on a fabric base of nylon organza. This sheer fabric supports the stitches during the embroidery process, offers a multitude of color options and easily melts away to cleanly finish freestanding petal, wing or flower edges.

When hooping the organza, consider the design stitching. Very large designs or those with dense fill stitching may require two or three layers of organza for support. Smaller, more open designs may need only one layer. For areas where curling is desired, such as the ends of flower petals, one organza layer is sufficient to support the stitches.

When using multiple organza layers, combine colors to create shading and color variations. Not all petals within a single flower need to be exactly the same color-in fact, no flower in nature is a single, solid color. For added interest, combine layers of different organza colors, such as pink and purple or multiple shades of a single color, or every time you rehoop, rearrange the color layers.

Stitching

Hoop the fabric layer(s) as tightly as possible, without stabilizer. Choose a medium-size hoop to securely hold the organza; it's slippery and isn't as secure in a larger hoop.

Using embroidery software or on-screen editing, fill the hoop with flower petals or motif components to ensure the best use of the fabric and stitching time. Though most flowers have an odd number of petals, this isn't an absolute-vary the size, shape and number of flower petals for interest.

Motifs are usually designed for a specific leaf or flower type, but changing the thread or organza color can turn the design into something totally different. Leaves can become flower petals and vice versa-mix and match to create original flowers.

Because the designs are dimensional, it's important that both sides of the stitching are presentable. Choose the dominant upper thread color and use this as the bobbin thread, or change bobbin colors every time you change the top thread.

Vary the thread types in the stitching process for added interest. For example, metallic thread makes beautiful veining on red organza poinsettia petals.
Variegated thread adds color interest without frequent thread changes. Glow-in-the-dark thread or solar-reactive threads also add variety. Choose your needle size and type based on the thread used.

Some designs have a complete fill pattern, covering the entire motif with stitching. Depending on the desired look, some or all of the fill stitching can be bypassed and the organza can be highlighted with only veins, shadowing and outlining. Skipping dense fill stitching shortens the stitching time, offers options for blending organza colors and creates a more flexible embroidery motif.

Trimming

Once the desired number of petals or motifs have been stitched, use 5" craft scissors to trim close to the satin stitch edges, being careful not to clip any stitches.

The organza may fray slightly after trimming. Seal the nylon edges using a 15-watt soldering iron, hot knife or stencil knife to melt the fibers. The fuzzies melt rapidly, so avoid damaging the fabric and stitching by melting only what should be melted! One quick pass should be sufficient; practice on stitched samples to perfect the technique.

Finishing

Build motifs on non-ravel fabrics, rather than permanently attaching them to a garment or project. Faux suede is the perfect weight to use as a design base.

Using an assortment of sizes, shapes and colors, begin to layer the motifs on the fabric base to plan the design. For flowers, begin with leaf petals if they are included. When you're satisfied with the design, carefully pick up all the layers except the lowest one.

Using pins to hold the motifs in place on the base, stitch part way down the motif center, using an open-toe foot to allow for visibility, and monofilament thread in the needle for unobtrusive stitching. Stitch each motif layer to the base before advancing to the next layer. Build up the design, using smaller parts closest to the top. Upper layer flower petals should barely touch in the center. These single-layer center petals often curl, adding even more dimension to the motif.

To finish flower centers, add silk ribbon French knots, buttons, beads or costume jewelry parts. On other motifs, like butterflies, beading can be used to hide the attachment stitching.

Daisies have an attached fabric center joining the petals. Two layers can create a simple daisy or add more layers for hybrids. No flower is perfectly symmetrical, so turn daisy layers at different angles to look more realistic.
3-D Embroidered Flowers

For raised daisy centers, slip a small piece of batting or fleece under the center before stitching the layers together around the circle perimeter.

When the motif is done, carefully trim the excess fabric base so none shows from the motif right side.

Use snaps, hook-and-loop dots or pin-backs to attach the motifs to a garment or project. This allows them to be removed for laundering and also allows for several options and wardrobe versatilily.

See "Write On!", for a special offer on Linda McGehee's new embroidery disk from Cactus Punch.
Embroidered leaves

Linda McGehee is the author of Creating Texture with Textiles and Simply Sensational Bags. She teaches nationally at conventions, sewing guilds and retail stores. For more information, visit www.ghees.com.

SOURCE

Ghee's, Dept. SN, 2620 Centenary Blvd. #2-250, Shreveport, LA 71104, (318) 226-1701, www.ghees.com, sells 35 colors of organza, bag patterns, books and notions.


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