Fabulous Fakes - Page 1 - Sew News Library

From our January 2003 Issue


Fabulous FAKES SUSAN VOIGT-REISING These fur alternatives have become a fashion mainstay and the preferred choice of many. Brush up on your synthetic fur sewing techniques and "go faux it" this season.

Today, increasing numbers of fur-lovers are opting for the humane choice: fake furs as beautiful as the animals that inspire them. Faux leopard, mink, Mongolian lamb, shearling and more are seen in coats, vests and wraps-on their face, in their linings or as one-half of a reversible duo. Meanwhile, scarves, headbands, hats and handbags provide maximum impact with minimum yardage. Regardless of whether you go faux a little or a lot, the following tips and techniques will help you sew like a pro.

Choosing Fake Furs

Look to fashion magazines and mail-order catalogs for silhouette ideas and to determine whether you prefer a long-pile fur such as fox or Mongolian lamb, or shorter ones such as chinchilla, sheared beaver or leopard.
     Choose a fake fur similar to your hair color.
     Purchase the yardage suggested for a with-nap layout. If you're planning to alter patterns or combine pieces (see "Pattern Picks"), keep this in mind when purchasing yardage.
Note: Make any pattern adjustments necessary; then compare the revised layout to the recommended layout and yardage estimates before purchasing the fabric.
     Consider the care for the finished project prior to selecting other elements. Although most faux furs require dry cleaning, some may be laundered by machine, usually using cold water/gentle wash and no-heat/fluff dry settings. If the chosen fur can be laundered, choose a lining, shoulder pads, etc. with the same care requirements.
     Store faux fur on a tube until you're ready to use it. Folding may cause permanent creases.
     Interfacings are rarely used on fur garments. If interfacing stability is needed to support areas such as collars and facings, use hair canvas or a medium- to heavyweight sew-in interfacing. Don't use a fusible; the heat required for fusing will damage the fur.

Layout, Cutting & Marking

Before laying out the project, evaluate the chosen fabric and determine whether the surface details can be used as design elements. For example, should stripes be positioned at specific locations, or light-to-dark shading manipulated to your advantage? For furs featuring "pelt" texturing (furs that look like numerous small pelts sewn together), you might opt to place a few strategic pattern pieces on the bias-so sleeves appear to spiral, or fronts or backs create a chevron effect. For effective vertical placements, mark key pelt lines on the fabric backing and position pattern pieces with center lines, folds or side seams on pelt lines whenever possible.
     Before cutting, review faux fur seaming options (see "Smart Seams" later in this article) and note whether seam allowances will require adjustment.
     Lay out the fabric in a single layer with the knit backing face up. Position the pattern pieces with the nap running downward (so the fur feels smooth when you run your hand down the garment piece)-unless you've chosen a different layout for special effect. Exceptions to this rule are dark sheared faux furs, such as black sheared beaver and longhaired Mongolian lamb; cut these with the pile running upward.
     Hold the pattern pieces in place with weights. Note. For patterns meant to be cut on the fold, create full-size patterns from pattern tracing cloth or flip patterns during the tracing process, being careful to allow enough room for these mirror images.
     Trace the pattern outlines using wax chalk, a soap sliver, a felt-tip pen or an air-soluble marker that contrasts with the fabric backing. Because notches are difficult to cut accurately, substitute small clips or pieces of tape marked with ballpoint pen to indicate placement markings for matching points, closures or pockets. Consider adding additional notches every 4" to 6" for help in matching edges for an even seam.

     To cut, use a sharp single-edge razor or a craft knife to slice through the backing only, pulling the fabric apart (1). Sharp shears also will work; use just the tips, and cut through the backing only. Note: Keep a portable vacuum handy to sweep up loose fibers as you work.
Cut faux fur through backing only.

Choosing Fake Furs -- Layout, Cutting & Marking
Pattern Picks | Preparation | Smart Seams
Closures | Hemming - Lining
Trim Tips


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