Stitch all seams in the direction of the nap with right sides together. Always test first on samples of the faux fur.
For a butted seam, use a wide, short zigzag and trim the seam allowances
to 1/4". Stitch so the needle catches the fabric layers on the left swing and sews off the edge on the other swing (3).
For a butted seam using the serger, completely trim away the seam allowances and use a 2-thread flatlock stitch without trimming. Constantly push the fur fibers from the needle area as you serge. After stitching, open the layers and pull the seams gently to flatten them (4).
For traditional straight stitched seams, clip the pile hairs 1/2" into the seam allowances (5). Set the machine for a long straight stitch, 7 to 10 stitches per inch, and loosen the needle tension if necessary.
For a traditional seam using a zigzag, trim the seam allowances to 1/8"
for short pile and 1/4" for long pile. Stitch using a medium-width short zigzag for short pile, or a wide-width and regular stitch length for longer pile.
When stitching faux fur to a smoother fabric, such as when making a reversible coat with fur on one side and a water-resistant fabric on the other, minimize slipping by hand-basting the two edges together with short, even stitches. Using a traditional seam option, stitch in the direction of the pile with the non-fur fabric on top.
After stitching traditional seams, finger-press the seam allowances to one side.
Working on the fur right side and using a T-pin or blunt tapestry needle, free the hairs caught in the stitching. Brush the fibers to conceal the seams.
If pressing is required, always press from the fabric wrong side using your fingers or the tip of a low-temperature iron.
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