Foiled! -- Sew News Library

From our December 2002 Issue


		FOILED! LAURA MURRAY Looking for ways to add sparkle and pizzazz to your wardrobe? The solution may be found in foil-a fun, fast and flashy surface design technique.

Foil, in all colors of the rainbow, can easily be applied to fabric to create dazzling special effects in clothing. It's simple enough that even children can have fun achieving spectacular results in a short time. Foils come in sheets--cellophane backed with a metallic color--that are transferred to the fabric using an iron and adhesive.
     Nearly all fabrics--cotton, silk, Ultrasuede, synthetics, stretch Lycra, velvets, even sheers and wools--can be foiled. Smooth surfaces work best for detailed designs, (e.g., a tiny dragonfly stamp will look great on silk, but turn into an unrecognizable smear on Berber). A hot iron is used to apply the foil, so test the heat tolerance of a fabric scrap before attempting to foil.
     Garments with foiling need to be hand- or machine-washed in cool water, on a gentle cycle. Air dry garments; foil will rub off in a dryer, leaving only the adhesive. Press garments from the wrong side, or use a press cloth. Dry-cleaning chemicals will remove the foil. Consider the laundering technique you'11 use on a garment when choosing fabric and the garment you're making.
     There are two basic methods for creating shapes and applying the foil: textile adhesive and transfer web.

Textile Adhesive Method

Using textile adhesive and stamps, images can be quickly applied and easily repeated. Purchase or create stamps or stencils. Household objects such as potato mashers, meat tenderizers, cookie cutters and LEGO bricks, even carved erasers, can be pressed into service to create interesting designs.


MATERIALS Iron Foil Texture adhesive Foam applicator brush Fabric Stamps or stencils Old towel

Place the fabric right side up on the towel. The towel provides a lightly padded surface for stamping, and will stain with use.
Apply a thin layer of textile adhesive to the stamp with a foam applicator brush. Stamp the design onto the fabric and allow the adhesive to dry completely--about two hours.
Empty the water from the iron, and set to a cotton heat setting. Place foils with the color (shiny) side facing up over the dried adhesive stamp image. Burnish the foil by rubbing it with the iron edge while exerting some pressure. The iron melts the adhesive, which bonds with the foil.
Allow the foil to cool for 10 seconds, then peel it off the adhesive. Foil can be used repeatedly until no color remains on the cellophane.
The first foil application usually leaves some open areas on the adhesive. This provides the opportunity to add additional color for interest and depth.

Transfer Web Method

Transfer webs or fusibles contain an adhesive that can be used as a substitute for the liquid adhesive described in the "Textile Adhesive Method." This method works best when only a few simple shapes are required for a project, because each shape must be cut from the fusible. The advantage to this technique is that you don't have to wait for the liquid adhesive to dry. Try webs such as Wonder-Under or Aileens. Avoid HeatnBond, which breaks down with higher iron temperatures.

MATERIALS

Iron
Paper-backed transfer or fusible web
Scissors
Old towel
Foil
Teflon pressing sheet or parchment paper Fabric

Cut out a shape from the fusible web. Draw or trace the design on the fusible web paper side or freehand cut the desired shape.
Fuse the web shape to the fabric, and let it cool for about 30 seconds.
Remove the paper backing and apply the foil with a dry iron on the cotton setting. Additional shapes or colors can overlap the design if desired, just be sure to completely saturate the first layer of fusible web with color.
Cut a second shape from the fusible web and place it over the first foiling area. Cover the entire design area with a Teflon pressing sheet or parchment paper and fuse the web to the fabric. Take care to not touch the previously foiled area directly with the iron.
Remove the paper backing and repeat the foiling process with a contrasting color. Peel off the foil and add additional colors if desired.

Hints for Using Foil on Garments


Make 6" to 10" square samples. It's a good way to get a feel for the foiling process, and see the different effects of color and texture for future reference. The samples can be used in projects. Apply transfer web to the back of the sample and fuse to any garment for eye-catching effects. This method provides the opportunity to move the foil images around on the garment until a pleasing arrangement is achieved. The black vest (1) was purchased off a sale rack for $2 and turned into something special by fusing several foil samples to it. Use foiling as a diversionary tactic. The long, front panel of this vest (2) had to be pieced together, and the large open areas accentuated the horizontal seams. Branches and blossoms similar to the fabric print were cut from fusible web, fused across the seams and foiled, camouflaging the seams. Turn existing garments into designer outfits. Look in your closet for seldom-worn garments and give them new life by adding foiling. Add designer accents to plain T-shirts (3) by adding foil. It's also a great way to cover stubborn stains.

Laura Murray of Minneapolis, MN, is a full-time textile artist specializing in silk projects. She hand paints and dyes vintage kimono silks for sale, creates art quilts and garments, and teaches workshops in foil, collage and surface design. Visit her Web site at www.lauramurraydesigns.com.

SOURCES

This information was current when published in the December 2002 issue of Sew News. No guarantee is made regarding availability. Stay up-to-date with current sources by subscribing today!

See "Write On!" on page 80 for special offers on a foiling starter kit from Laura Murray Designs and the Kimono Jacket and Vest pattern from Purrfection Artistic Wearables.

PAW Prints patterns are available from Purrfection Artistic Wearables, 12323 99th Ave. N.E., Arlington, WA 98223-8852, (800) 6914293 or (360) 653-0901, www.purrfection.com.