Rayon Review

By Nancy Zieman

Historically, we've loved rayon's drape, but we've been less than enthusiastic about its care and quality. Until now! The new generation of rayons is changing how we perceive--and sew--this fabric favorite.

Rayon has changed--the quality has dramatically improved without sacrificing the drapability so near and dear to our hearts and figures. The new rayons love to be worn everywhere. Rayon garments travel well; they're equally at home in a mall or at the office. They can look alluringly romantic at night, yet be pragmatically functional during the day. Best of all, rayons are unbelievably easy to sew. There's a tremendous selection of fabrics and patterns.

With today's rayons and a few quick tips, you can make fashions that feel good, look even better, and are easier to sew than you ever thought possible. And perhaps most importantly, they now require little care!

Tip 1

Prewash! The old adage, "prewash the fabric if you plan on washing it as a garment," still applies. Years ago, rayons couldn't have tolerated such easy-care treatment--dry cleaning was the only option. Today's rayons are washer-friendly; choose a gentle, cool-water cycle and machine air dry (with the exception that rayon crepes dry best on low heat). Studies show that most rayons shrink 2% to 4% in length--keep that in mind when you're buying fabric. To allow for shrinkage, purchase an extra 1/8 yard for each 2 yards of fabric.

Tip 2

Choose patterns with minimal seaming to showcase rayon's beauty and drape. Combine one or more rayon prints to turn simple lines into fantastic fashion. Create easy-to-sew wardrobe components all in rayon--unlined jacket, top, pull-on pants, and skirt--or make simple tops or tunics plus a pull-on basic cut skirt with an elastic waist.

Tip 3

Pin generously. Rayon fabrics, whether cut on grain or on the bias, drape to flatter almost any figure. Cutting this drapable fabric can, at times, be challenging. Control the slipping and sliding by pinning the fabric layers to pattern tracing cloth, then pinning the pattern through all layers before cutting.

Tip 4

Use serrated shears. The unique blades grasp fabrics to prevent slipping and make cutting through layers easier.

Tip 5

Choose a temporary fusible interfacing and add it to facings or other areas requiring stabilization. A temporary fusible adheres to the fabric with only a slight amount of heat. After sewing the interfacing in place, the fusing gradually releases when the garment is laundered, allowing the rayon to have stability and drape at the same time. Note: Using traditional fusible interfacing can change rayon's characteristics, adding too much stiffness.

Tip 6

Use a size # 80 sharp needle in your machine. The thin shaft and sharp point ensure trouble-free stitching on rayon.

Tip 7

Stitch long seams with a slight zigzag. Rayon fabric loves to move and flow; sometimes a straight-stitch seam doesn't have as much "give" as the flowing fabric needs. To alleviate the problem, stitch long seams with a slight zigzag, 1.0 width and 2.5- to 3.0 length. The built-in stretch keeps seams smooth and pucker-free.

Tip 8

Be creative with closures. In some styles, the traditional button and buttonhole inhibit the garment styling. Create easy button loops by cutting narrow 7/8" bias fabric strips. Right sides together, join the long edges with a 1/4" seam. Use a tube-turning device to quickly turn the tube right side out. Cut the loops to the desired length and sew them in a seam for a convenient, attractive closure.

Tip 9

Take a break before hemming! Hang the garment overnight, especially if it's a bias skirt. This allows the fabric to relax and "hang out," and helps ensure an even hemline.

Tip 10

For an easy first project, make an elegant rayon scarf. Cut a square or rectangle the desired size, then finish the edges with a simple turned hem or serger rolled edge.

Nancy Zieman is the host of public television's Sewing With Nancy®--now in its 17th year. She's also president of Nancy's Notions®, a sewing and quilting supplies mail-order company. For a catalog, contact Nancy's Notions at (800) 833-0690.