The History Of Dry Cleaning - Behind The Counter--Sew News Library

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Behind The Counter
By Sally Cowan

We all do it: drive to the local dry cleaner, hand over precious clothes to a stranger and walk away. We don't give it another thought until we pick up our clothes. Only when something goes wrong do we even stop and consider the other side of the story. Even then, we want it fixed, not explained.

David Marriotti, owner of Mariotti's Laundry & Dry Cleaners in St. Augustine, Fla., welcomed me behind the counter of his dry-cleaning business for a behind-the-scenes look at what happens between drop-off and pick-up. The first thing I discovered is that dry cleaning isn't a dry process at all.

A Look Back

Pant Buck Presser
Photograph courtesy of
American Laundry Machine
There are various stories about the origins of dry cleaning. One story says that a petroleum-base fluid accidentally spilled on greasy fabric. The fluid quickly evaporated, taking the stains with it. Jolly Belin--credited as being the first dry cleaner--opened in Paris in the 1840s. During that time "garment scourers and dyers" discovered several fluids could be used as dry-cleaning solvents, including camphene, benzene, kerosene and gasoline.
In 1910, a dry-cleaning washer used hot naphtha or gasoline. Dry cleaning was a hazardous profession until the 1926 introduction of Stoddard solvent, the first petroleum solvent produced specifically for dry cleaning. Stoddard didn't readily ignite and was odor- and impurity-free. In the 1930s, perchloroethylene, a nonflammable fluid, was introduced and still is used in many dry-cleaning plants.

Today, when a garment is dropped off at a storefront, it's marked with a non-soluble tag and sent to a "plant" for cleaning. Garments are then sorted by fabric type, color, degree of soilage, whether it requires sizing, water-repellent and other finishes.
Dry-clean-only garments are cleaned in large tumble-style washers that resemble front-loading dryers with a 300-pound capacity.
Agents are "inserted" to dissolve the stains. The fluid is then extracted from the garments.
Most dry-cleaning agents are hazardous substances and can't be thrown out. When the cleaning agent is extracted, it's recycled, pulling out the impurities. A professional cleaner is skilled at keeping fluids clean so future garments aren't soiled.
Once cleaned, the garments are dried and pressed on special bucks used to shape neckbands, collars, pant legs, etc.

Shirt Buck and Cuff and Collar Finishing Equipment
Photograph courtesy of
American Laundry Machine

*Pant Buck Presser* Photograph courtesy of American Laundry Machine	There are various stories about the origins of dry cleaning. One story says that a petroleum-base fluid accidentally spilled on greasy fabric. The fluid quickly evaporated, taking the stains with it. Jolly Belin--credited as being the first dry cleaner--opened in Paris in the 1840s. During that time "garment scourers and dyers" discovered several fluids could be used as dry-cleaning solvents, including camphene, benzene, kerosene and gasoline. In 1910, a dry-cleaning washer used hot naphtha or gasoline. Dry cleaning was a hazardous profession until the 1926 introduction of Stoddard solvent, the first petroleum solvent produced specifically for dry cleaning. Stoddard didn't readily ignite and was odor- and impurity-free. In the 1930s, perchloroethylene, a nonflammable fluid, was introduced and still is used in many dry-cleaning plants.

Today, when a garment is dropped off at a storefront, it's marked with a non-soluble tag and sent to a "plant" for cleaning. Garments are then sorted by fabric type, color, degree of soilage, whether it requires sizing, water-repellent and other finishes. Dry-clean-only garments are cleaned in large tumble-style washers that resemble front-loading dryers with a 300-pound capacity. Agents are "inserted" to dissolve the stains. The fluid is then extracted from the garments. Most dry-cleaning agents are hazardous substances and can't be thrown out. When the cleaning agent is extracted, it's recycled, pulling out the impurities. A professional cleaner is skilled at keeping fluids clean so future garments aren't soiled. Once cleaned, the garments are dried and pressed on special bucks used to shape neckbands, collars, pant legs, etc.	*Shirt Buck and Cuff and Collar Finishing Equipment* Photograph courtesy of American Laundry Machine

Burning Questions

Does dry cleaning shorten the life of the garment?

Actually it may prolong it. Ground-in dirt and stains only get worse with time. Also, insects are attracted to soiled clothes and can further damage them.
The University of North Carolina Department of Clothing and Textiles tested woolen fabric samples for changes after dry cleaning, including loss in strength and resilience, but no significant changes were found--even after 10 dry cleanings. However, it's recommended to clean matching suit pieces together, because color can change slightly with repeated cleanings.

Will fabric and leather shrink, fade or be damaged by dry cleaning?

It won't if proper measures are taken. Leathers require special procedures and additives to help retain their color and texture. Sometimes suedes and leathers are dyed to restore color.
If a garment label says "washable," does that mean it can't be dry-cleaned?
The Federal Trade Commission Care Label Rule states that the label must list at least one suitable method of care. Dry cleaners follow the instructions on the label. If asked to use a different method, you may be asked to sign a customer-consent form.

Maybe, Maybe Not

There are a few things even the best dry cleaner can't do:

Remove all stains. The nature and age of the stain, plus the fabric color and construction determine the outcome.
Prevent fading and/or bleeding. These problems are related to the dye used by the manufacturer. If the dyes used aren't colorfast to both solvent and water, some color may be lost.
Correct damage. In our hurry to stop a stain from occurring, we sometimes rub and scrub an area. This makes the dry cleaner's job harder. Also, holes created by insects, acid spills or other causes can't always be seen before dry cleaning or repaired to the customer's satisfaction. Dry cleaners can't prevent shrinkage or correct shine on fabrics caused by excessive heat and pressing.

Label Lingo

According to the Care Label Rule, "Textile garments sold in the United States must have a permanent, legible care label attached in a conspicuous place." All garment parts must withstand the recommended care procedure.

The care label is a guide for both the consumer and the dry cleaner. If the garment says "dry clean," it means all parts of the garment--including the outer shell, lining, buttons, interfacing, fusing material and trim--are colorfast and won't be altered during cleaning. If the garment is changed by dry cleaning, it's up to the customer to inform the manufacturer.

Check your dry-cleaned garments for:

Dyes or sizing that dissolve in solvent or water.
Shrinkage or separation of fusible interfacings and bonded fabrics.
Surface sheen loss

Problem Resolution

Most garments dry-clean without problems, but if the dry cleaner suspects difficulty, they'll request that you sign a consent form. If you sign the waiver, the dry cleaner won't be responsible for damage the cleaning may cause.

If damage does occur in a cleaning establishment, claims are settled using the Fair Claims Guide published by the International Fabricare Institute (IFI). If there's doubt about responsibility, a member cleaner can send the garment in question to IFI's Garment Analysis Laboratory to determine the cause of the problem.

If the manufacturer is at fault, return the item to the manufacturer via registered mail and include an explanation for the return.

Joel Deutsch, executive director of the Southeastern Fabricare Association, emphasizes choosing a dry cleaner belonging to a professional trade association with the standards and ethics established to protect the consumer and the cleaner from false claims.

Sally Cowan is a motivational speaker, sewing expert and author. A chance to combine her sense of humor and creative teaching style cut short her career in medicine and gave birth to the concept for "Keeping You In Stitches," Cowan's motivational sewing teaching and lecture series.


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