Sheer Intelligence
By Barbara Weiland
- Choose designs with minimal seams, as inside stitching and seams
will show to some extent. Neat and narrow are the bywords for seam and hem finishes. While
French seams are the classic finish for sheer seams, also consider serging a rolled-edge
finish to create very fine, hairline seams.
- Because every stitch has the potential to show through a sheer
fabric, straight and accurate stitching is a must. Take your time and stitch a sample
first. Use a new size 60 to 75 machine needle and thread that won't weigh down seams, such
as soft mercerized cotton thread, lingerie thread or machine embroidery thread. For easier
stitching, use a throatplate and presser foot designed for straight stitching. A patchwork
foot also is a real boon for stitching perfectly even French seams.
- Consider capitalizing on show-through seams by drawing attention
to the garment's structural aspects with decorative stitching. Or make serged rolled-edge
seams noticeable by using a colored rayon thread in the upper looper.
- Gathers, pleats and soft tucks are preferable to dart shaping.
Wherever there's a dart, three layers of fabric show through the sheer fabric and can be
distracting.
Very narrow hems generally
are best. A hand-rolled or serged narrow-rolled edge are perfect choices for full
garments. Wide double- or triple-layer hems can be attractive on some garments with
straight edges, such as a child's organdy dress or a pretty silk organza ball gown; the
layers create a slight color change for added eye appeal.
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