Sheer Intelligence

By Barbara Weiland

Page 3 Replacing Facings

Facings may be unsightly showing through your sheer garments. Consider the following ideas for replacing traditional facings.

• Create narrow bias bindings (Figure 1):
  
  
  • Machine stitch 3/4" (2cm) from the garment raw edge, then trim 1/8" (3mm) away from the stitching.
    
    
  • Pin and sew a single- or double-layer sheer bias strip to the cut edge, turn it to the inside and slipstitch in place along the seamline. As an alternative, use an opaque, coordinating or contrasting fabric for the binding.
    

Use a narrow lace finish as a pretty facing alternative, especially around a neckline (Figure 2). Stitch 1/4"-wide lace to the neckline edge, placing the scalloped edge closest to the neck raw edge and the bound edge 1/2" from the raw edge. Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching. Turn the lace to the inside along the 5/8" (1.5cm) seamline and topstitch 1/4" (6mm) from the edge. Use nude-color tulle or silk organza for interfacing.

• Add design interest to a neckline and sleeve or lower edge hems by using a contrasting fabric for facings (Figure 3):
  
  
  • Create hem facings in lieu of traditional hems. Cut the hem and neckline facings from contrasting opaque fabric.
    
    
  • Stitch the neckline and hem facings to the garment wrong side. Turn and press them to the right side; topstitch them in place.
    
    

On straight edges, use a narrow doubled hem instead of facing (Figure 4). Machine baste along the seamline and trim it to a scant 1/2" (1cm). Turn under and press the remaining seam allowance, using the basting as a guide. Remove the basting. Press the raw edge in to meet the pressed edge. Edgestitch, using an edgestitching foot if available.

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