Sheer Intelligence
By Barbara Weiland
- It's best to avoid in-seam pockets in sheer garments, but if
they're necessary, cut them from sheer, nude-color fabric for minimal show-through. Note:
This also is a great pocket strategy for white pants and skirts.
- If darts are necessary for shaping, use the bobbin-stitching
method for a cleanly finished dart point.
- Fold and pin the dart in place.
- Remove the thread from the needle eye. Thread the bobbin thread
through the needle from the back to the front.
- Tie the bobbin and needle threads together in an overhand knot
above the needle eye, then carefully draw the bobbin thread up through all thread guides
until the knot reaches the spool. Note: For extra-long darts, draw up even more
thread.
- Beginning at the dart point, stitch to the dart cut end;
backstitch and clip the threads.
- Repeat to rethread the
machine for each dart.
- You also can use a bobbin stitching method variation to neatly
stitch released tucks in sheers without backstitching.
- Press or pin the tuck in place and position the exposed tuck end
under the needle. Note: This may seem backward if you're accustomed to stitching
from the tuck raw edge to the inside open end and backstitching.
- Lower the presser foot. Holding the needle thread tail, take a
stitch to draw the bobbin thread to the tuck surface. Lift the presser foot and draw up a
bobbin thread length, taking care to leave the fabric in place on the machine.
- Complete, following the dart-stitching method instructions.
- Lower the presser foot and
stitch to the tuck raw edges. Backstitch and clip the threads. Press the tuck.
- To avoid a hem or seam at a double-layer sheer sleeve lower edge:
- Use a sleeve pattern with a straight lower edge and cut a double
sleeve from sheer fabric.
- Turn under or trim away the hem allowance at the sleeve lower
edge.
- Position the sleeve lower edge along a fabric fold and cut a
double-layer sleeve.
- To assemble the sleeve, open the layers and stitch the underarm
seam, using a very narrow seam finish.
- Fold the sleeve in half crosswise, wrong sides together, and baste
the sleeve cap edges together.
- Set the sleeve into the
armhole. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" (6mm) and bind it with bias binding cut from
the sheer fabric. Note: You also can use this cutting and sewing technique to line
a straight skirt. Sew all vertical seams, then turn the lining up into the skirt and catch
it in the waistband.
Figure 5 |
- Covered buttons often are a pretty detail on sheer garments. To
prevent the button form from showing through, use two or more sheer fabric layers. Note:Opaque
plastic forms are less likely to show through than shiny metal ones.
- Try to avoid zipper closures.
If you must use a zipper, choose one that's lightweight and closely matches your fabric
color and insert it by hand. Zippers will show less or not at all if you line or underline
the garment. A bias-bound back neck opening--slightly rounded in shape--with a covered
button and a thread loop at the top is a nice alternative (Figure 5).
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Barbara Weiland is a nationally known free-lance
sewing and quilting consultant, editor and writer. Her latest book is "Secrets for
Successful Sewing," published by Rodale Press.
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