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Mesh Matters
Working with mesh can be easy
if you follow these tips and techniques.
- Use all-purpose polyester or texturized nylon thread to sew
polyester or nylon mesh, as well as mesh blends that contain these fibers. All-purpose
polyester/cotton thread can be used on other mesh types.
- Because of the open holes, treat mesh as a transparent fabric,
keeping seams neat and narrow. Seaming options include:
- Serge seams with a 3-thread overlock stitch. Use a medium stitch
width and short stitch length.
- Serge seams with a 3-thread rolled hem, loosening the upper looper
and tightening the lower looper tensions so mesh edges remain flat as stitches form.
- Double stitch seams with two rows of straight stitch or narrow
zigzag stitch, stretching the mesh as you sew if it's a spandex type. Trim the seam
allowances to 1/4 "(6.5mm)--no further finish is needed because mesh doesn't ravel.
- Mesh with very coarse openings will feed better through a
conventional sewing machine if you:
- Use a short stitch length.
- Use a narrow zigzag stitch rather than a straight stitch.
- Use a tear-away, wash-away or tissue paper stabilizer underneath
so the feed dogs aren't grabbing "air"; remove the stabilizer after sewing.
- Place the mesh layer on top, next to the needle, when stitching it
to another fabric.
- Stabilize seams as you sew with clear elastic or sheer tricot
tape.
- To finish mesh edges:
- Bind the edge with double-fold bias tape, foldover braid or
ribbing. If the edge is straight, you can use ribbon as a binding. Select the edge trim to
match the mesh or create a decorative treatment by using a contrasting trim color.
- Serge the edge with a 3-thread overlock stitch, fold the edge
over, then topstitch.
- Thread the serger upper looper with decorative thread, then
overlock the mesh edge with a 3-thread rolled hem stitch. On very open meshes, wrap the
edge with sheer tricot bias before serging, then trim the excess tricot close to the
stitching.
- Hem overskirts sewn from very
fine, netting-type meshes by trimming them neatly with sharp shears or a rotary
cutter--it's the same finish you'll find on expensive ready-to-wear.
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