Puttin' On The Glitz
By Peggy Bendel
Some say holograms are art. Some say they're science. Others say they're
just magic. In the soft-touch world of sewing, high-tech holograms on fabrics and threads
are pure glitz. If it has a hologram, you can be sure it outshines metallic threads,
sequins, faceted Austrian crystals or any other visually exciting material you've sewn
with previously.
Holograms are actually flat images that create the effect of three-dimensions--and make
light dance with great brilliance. To create this special effect on fabric or thread, an
innovative combination of photographic and embossing techniques usually comes into play.
Although no camera is used, one could describe the actual hologram as a type of photograph
produced on film with laser light. During the "shoot," a curved lens splits the
laser beam into microscopic waves and troughs and spreads them over the film, then a metal
die is made from the film negative. The die is used to stamp the hologram image onto the
back of very thin polyester foil.
The foil, which actually is very reflective by itself, can be backed with a coating and
slit into very skinny slices to make machine sewing thread. It also can be backed with a
heat-sensitive adhesive for use as a novelty trim or cut into 1mm- to 5mm-diameter dots
and heat-transferred to fabric yardage.
 Hologram threads may not defy gravity but they do excite the imagination! |
Hologram threads begin with the same type of foil material used to make
the metallic threads popular for decorative stitching. Currently, two thread brands are
available for sewing; each brand offers six colors: Prizm Hologram Thread comes on
164-yard spools; Madeira's Jewel Thread comes on 110-yard spools.
Like other flat film threads, there are some steps you should take to encourage smooth
sewing with hologram threads.
- Wind the bobbin with fine, 70-weight polyester thread.
- Set the metallic thread spool on a felt pad to prevent backlash.
- Use a vertical spool pin to feed the thread sideways into the
upper guides and tensions.
- To reduce heat-generating friction--a leading cause of thread
breakage--use a needle with a larger eye, such as a machine embroidery needle; loosen the
upper tension; and sew at a relatively slow speed.
|
Interestingly, these threads perform well on machines with a
hooped embroidery feature. You even can use hologram threads for large-scale, satin
stitched hooped embroidery designs as long as the stitches form side by side. Don't use
hologram threads for "padded" embroidery designs that form layers of
side-by-side stitches over one another; this will generate enough heat to break the
thread.
| Holograms also are available on fabric, thanks to a
newly developed industrial adhesive that bonds hologram dots to nylon/spandex knits. In
better fabric stores, you now can find bright, flashy stretch knits that look like
shattered glass, bull's eyes, kinetic circles and other eye-catching hologram designs.
This premium-price fabric is popular for swimwear and leotards, particularly when custom
costumes for athletic competitions are the sewing goal. Though you can sew these fabrics
like any other spandex knit, the narrow 40" to 41" (101.5cm to 104cm) width and
1"-wide (2.5cm) selvage may require pattern layout modifications. Care for hologram
stretch knits by turning garments inside out and laundering them by hand; air dry. |
Hologram fabrics, like these 85 percent nylon/ 15 percent spandex offerings from Pine Crest Fabrics are new favorites for competition costumes |
 Choose from an arrray of prismatic foils to create colorful appliques like this fancy fish, courtesy of Meryl Ann Butler Studios.  |
Prismatic foil, another
remarkable sewing material, could be described as a novelty nonwoven "fabric."
Actually a piece of hologram foil with a self-adhesive backing, its popularity is growing
for wearable art and quilt embellishments. Highly reflective and intriguingly dimensional,
as are all holograms, prismatic foil comes in dozens of designs and colors. Generally,
you'll find it at sewing resources packaged as 6" (15cm) squares. You can cut the
squares into shapes for appliqués and secure the edges with an open zigzag stitch, or cut
the squares into pieces and seam them into patchwork designs.
You'll find prismatic foil easy to sew and care for if you:
- Use a drop of needle lubricant to prevent the adhesive backing
from gumming up the needle as you stitch.
- Select a long machine stitch and small needle to minimize the
number and size of perforations.
Dry clean finished items or
turn them inside-out and wash on a gentle cycle.
|
Nancy's Notions, Dept. SN, 333 Beichl Ave., Box 683, Beaver Dam, WI 53916-0683,
phone (800)833-0690, Web site: www.nancysnotions.com (free catalog)
Web of Thread, (800) -955-8185, www.webofthread.com