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glitzy shiney fabric Puttin' On The Glitz

How can a hologram be transferred to fabric and threads? With these high tech wonders enjoying increasing popularity, we went in search of answers.

Is It Magic | Using Hologram Threads
Sewing Hologram Fabrics | Sources

Puttin' On The Glitz
By Peggy Bendel
Is It Magic?

Some say holograms are art. Some say they're science. Others say they're just magic. In the soft-touch world of sewing, high-tech holograms on fabrics and threads are pure glitz. If it has a hologram, you can be sure it outshines metallic threads, sequins, faceted Austrian crystals or any other visually exciting material you've sewn with previously.

Holograms are actually flat images that create the effect of three-dimensions--and make light dance with great brilliance. To create this special effect on fabric or thread, an innovative combination of photographic and embossing techniques usually comes into play. Although no camera is used, one could describe the actual hologram as a type of photograph produced on film with laser light. During the "shoot," a curved lens splits the laser beam into microscopic waves and troughs and spreads them over the film, then a metal die is made from the film negative. The die is used to stamp the hologram image onto the back of very thin polyester foil.

The foil, which actually is very reflective by itself, can be backed with a coating and slit into very skinny slices to make machine sewing thread. It also can be backed with a heat-sensitive adhesive for use as a novelty trim or cut into 1mm- to 5mm-diameter dots and heat-transferred to fabric yardage.

Using Hologram Thread

hologram threads

Hologram threads
may not defy gravity
but they do excite
the imagination!

Hologram threads begin with the same type of foil material used to make the metallic threads popular for decorative stitching. Currently, two thread brands are available for sewing; each brand offers six colors: Prizm™ Hologram Thread comes on 164-yard spools; Madeira's Jewel Thread comes on 110-yard spools.

Like other flat film threads, there are some steps you should take to encourage smooth sewing with hologram threads.
  • Wind the bobbin with fine, 70-weight polyester thread.

  • Set the metallic thread spool on a felt pad to prevent backlash.

  • Use a vertical spool pin to feed the thread sideways into the upper guides and tensions.

  • To reduce heat-generating friction--a leading cause of thread breakage--use a needle with a larger eye, such as a machine embroidery needle; loosen the upper tension; and sew at a relatively slow speed.

Interestingly, these threads perform well on machines with a hooped embroidery feature. You even can use hologram threads for large-scale, satin stitched hooped embroidery designs as long as the stitches form side by side. Don't use hologram threads for "padded" embroidery designs that form layers of side-by-side stitches over one another; this will generate enough heat to break the thread.

Sewing Hologram Fabrics
Holograms also are available on fabric, thanks to a newly developed industrial adhesive that bonds hologram dots to nylon/spandex knits. In better fabric stores, you now can find bright, flashy stretch knits that look like shattered glass, bull's eyes, kinetic circles and other eye-catching hologram designs. This premium-price fabric is popular for swimwear and leotards, particularly when custom costumes for athletic competitions are the sewing goal. Though you can sew these fabrics like any other spandex knit, the narrow 40" to 41" (101.5cm to 104cm) width and 1"-wide (2.5cm) selvage may require pattern layout modifications. Care for hologram stretch knits by turning garments inside out and laundering them by hand; air dry. Hologram fabrics, like these 85 percent nylon/
15 percent spandex offerings from Pine Crest Fabrics are new favorites for competition costumes
glitzy shiney fabric


Choose from an arrray
of prismatic foils to
create colorful appliques
like this fancy fish, courtesy of Meryl Ann Butler Studios.
Prismatic foil, another remarkable sewing material, could be described as a novelty nonwoven "fabric." Actually a piece of hologram foil with a self-adhesive backing, its popularity is growing for wearable art and quilt embellishments. Highly reflective and intriguingly dimensional, as are all holograms, prismatic foil comes in dozens of designs and colors. Generally, you'll find it at sewing resources packaged as 6" (15cm) squares. You can cut the squares into shapes for appliqués and secure the edges with an open zigzag stitch, or cut the squares into pieces and seam them into patchwork designs.

You'll find prismatic foil easy to sew and care for if you:
  • Use a drop of needle lubricant to prevent the adhesive backing from gumming up the needle as you stitch.

  • Select a long machine stitch and small needle to minimize the number and size of perforations.

  • Dry clean finished items or turn them inside-out and wash on a gentle cycle.

Sources



Nancy's Notions, Dept. SN, 333 Beichl Ave., Box 683, Beaver Dam, WI 53916-0683, phone (800)833-0690, Web site: www.nancysnotions.com (free catalog)

Web of Thread, (800) -955-8185, www.webofthread.com

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