Sew News Magazine
Use these sewing tips to make the most of your knit picks!



Knit Knack

By Lori Bottom 



  • Use a ballpoint or universal needle for sewing knit fabrics. Universal needles have a modified ball point that sews well on both knits and wovens. To avoid snags, always begin projects with a new needle in a size compatible to the fabric weight.

  • T-pins or long glass head pins are ideal for pinning bulky knits.

  • To repair snags, pull loose yarns to the wrong side using a knit picker.

  • A roller foot or Teflon™ foot allows layers to feed evenly while stitching.

  • When selecting thread, keep the following characteristics in mind:

    • Polyester thread is strong and slightly elastic.

    • Cotton-covered polyester thread contains the slight stretch of polyester, but has the sewing and pressing characteristics of cotton.

    • Lingerie/bobbin thread is a 100-percent nylon thread that stretches. Use it in the needle and bobbin to build added stretch capability into the seam.

    • Texturized nylon thread also contains stretch characteristics and can be used in the needle and bobbin to build stretch into the seams. To thread texturized nylon, use a needle threader or put a dab of seam sealant on the thread end and let it dry before threading the needle.

    • As with polyester thread, lingerie/bobbin or texturized nylon thread can melt if pressed with a hot iron.

  • A rotary cutter and mat allows cutting of knits without shifting or stretching the fabric.

  • If fabric edges curl, place the pattern on the fabric wrong side.

  • Cut the fabric on a flat surface and prevent it from hanging off the work surface edge to avoid stretching.

  • Test the fabric end to see if it will run by gently pulling the cut edge in the crosswise direction. Repeat for both fabric ends; sometimes runs occur more easily in one direction than the other. If so, place the lower garment edge toward the end that runs; the hem edge is handled the least during construction and is less likely to run.

  • Use spray starch on knit edges that tend to curl.

  • Press sweater knits over a terry towel to avoid flattening.

  • Always let fabrics cool and dry before handling to avoid distortion.

  • Fusible tricot adds durability, yet is soft, has give and is compatible with most knit fabrics.

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